Hi Art,

Cannot say we are off topic when all we do is an education in progress!

Yes, the illustration is labeled backwards according to the specification sheet below it.
Your alertness is what has kept you smarter than the average bear in the woods!

If you thought that was bad, you should see this, that I didn’t send out.
We got to be careful about what we find on the Internet.

https://www.discounthydraulichose.com/6602-05-05-05.html

I kept looking at this thing saying, yes it’s the right configuration, but those are looking like left hand threads on the body to me. I couldn’t stop blinking at the darn thing!
I sincerely doubt they make left hand hydraulic fittings and if they did, they should put a notch cut ring around the corners of the wrench flats like on acetylene and propane gas fittings.

Yes the swivel has to “lock down” on the flare to seal to work.
The term swivel pertains to allowing the fittings body to rotate and locate within 360 degrees of orientation.
It’s just like a hose end fitting that allows you to NOT keep rotating the hose around and around or the unit it’s being connected too.
I put my port out horizontally but even more upward might be slightly better, if you want a drop or two to drain out of the flare cap or in my case the area between the fitting and the ball valve.
You can buy a plain flare fitting with a barbed hose end and not have a ball valve.
But you have to be ready to go shut the engine down to stop the flow.

The female portion allows some extra wiggle for easier alignment to the threads but you should always get your tubing a straight in alignment, as you can, to any connecting fitting.
These are angled fittings, not ball joint fittings. (:-)
Besides these lines are connected to a plastic radiator tank.

Some more experienced or hard knocks education here!

There was one caveat about buying male flare fittings from that bulk storage drawer. Those parts can get bumped or thrown back together.
On my side port, that I cap off, had a very slight leak of an occasional drop, over a week was an ounce, that I had to fix.
I couldn’t tighten and loosen it enough times or see anything wrong!
All surfaces have to be smooth and clean so I even buffed the flare cap with a Dremel sized brass wire brush for good measure. Not good enough as that fluid is thin!

Since I no longer have a high need for a tube of Dykem Hi-Spot or Prussian Blue in my tool box.
I grabbed a Sharpie pen and wet the inside of my flare cap.
I worked the cap on/off to show me low spots on my male flare end.
Actually it’s a high spot that creates a non contact low spot.
I used a fine grade of India stone and buffed off the high area to get a track all the way around.

Just a couple minutes of human intervention corrected the randomness or chaos in a quantitative manner.
Yep, I can never figure out which causes which, or is it the same, as all things are mass produced!

Just like in the illustration or photo, it’s LIFE everywhere!


Phil