Hi, Jeff

I have been watching your thread and another one under a BRICKSTER named BUILD.
Fir a little while I thought I was getting confused to which person I told what too and what I left in my notes that I never posted about checking cables.
His problem is the same as what yours was and so I was giving advice to you or him at the time.
I might be getting to old for this but I’m fighting to keep my sanity.

In both these cases I wrote to take the unit and get the alternator proofed on a specified machine for that purpose.
I’m glad you took the advice from others as well.

BUILD finally let it out that he was using a well “used up” alternator but keeps saying he has a high resistance to the firewall?
Derek in the UK asked him to check the batteries in the meter.
That was one that I never thought about, so he did good there. I have gotten weirdness from my meters for the same reason over the years.
It probably why I like taken those “same side” voltage readings, when possible, over only ohmmeter readings.

You named off off in the bottom of this last post that fixed the problem. The 0.022 reading of either side of the circuit, says, you have no excessive resistance.
It looks like using those size cables everywhere and what appears as a parallel bypass around the starter connection point did the trick.
The cleanliness and tightness of the starter’s stud can be a contentious problem area.
The Manufacturers save that extra length of wire to put on another car but then you are hauling around those extra two bigger wires.
Some might say that going to thinner engine oil would make up any difference in a mile per gallon rating.

IMO I’m too old, up on top, to be splitting hairs on those theory’s.

I’m more of a fact man in that my cars get 25-27 MPG continuously with no financial outlay to someone’s boat or retirement plan payments.

Hope you are as Happy as I’m to hear that we are like two clams on a drenched beach. 🫠

Phil