Hello,
I am looking for some advice. The rear bushing in my 84 GL sedan are totaly shot. They are obviously the originals. They all feel spongy and some are splitting. I have replaced all of the front suspention bushings and it made a huge difference
The problem is that I dont have a press or access to one. I am also pretty broke right now. FCP Grotton sells a a rear bushing kit with all 10 rear bushings, but I cant afford to have them installed, or even just pressed in after I do all of the removal/install work.
My question is, if I could only replace the bushings in one rear system, which is the most critical as far as preventing any other type of wear/dammage to things like my transmission? I know that I have to replace bushings in pairs, if there is a left and right bushing for safety reasons, but my main concern is preventing other parts from wearing out due to worn bushings. I just replaced a u joint and my tailshaft bushing/seal plus center support bearing within thelast 6 months. I am worried because I have been told that worn rear bushings put much greater strain on the transmission and I definitely cant afford one for those right now. I hope I have been clear with my request. Thanks all of the help, Kenneth

Last autumn I made The Tool bulletproof refers to - an evening's work - and spent the next Saturday replacing the rear trailing arm bushings. Mine weren't all that worn after 17 years and 90,000 miles, but replacing them still made a noticeable difference in handling and comfort. If yours are shot - Just Do It.



(More pics on my web site.)

Erling.
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My 240 Page

I think Manolo is refering to the rear trailing arm bushings. Control arm is in the front of the car. Rear tab's (#2 in the diagram at FCPG) are the ones to replace even not replacing any others. Spend the extra $5 for the Boge OEM bushings. Install with the arrow up and slots at 3 and 9 o'clock.

Also see
http://www-ese.fnal.gov/People/wilcer/volvo_trailing_arm_bushing_tool.htm
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'80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon

Manolo,
I checked out the site you suggested, about making the trailing arm tool. I have a question though, is this tool just to remove the rear bushings at the axle, or will it also squeeze out the bushings in the front of the trailing arms? Am I understanding the replys to my post correctly? I think I am hearing you guys say that I shoud replace the rear bushings in my trailing arms, not the front and rear bushings in my trailing arms. Thanks for the clairification. Kenneth

That tool is just for the rear trailing arm bushings at the axle. For the front TAB's you need to remove the entire trailing arm (not too difficult) and remove/install the bushings with a shop press. Since you don't have access to a press and can't afford to have it done by someone else you can get by just changing the rears.
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'80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon

The first rear bushing to fail is the lower control arm bushing, which presses in to two loops on the bottom of your rear axle.

You don't need a hydraulic press, for the lower control arm bushings, but you have to buy or make a special tool to press the old bushing out of the axle. To make the tool, you need (at least) an electric drill and a bench grinder, about $15 worth of iron plumbing parts from the hardware store, and a long grade 5 or 8 bolt (a bit hard to find).

Search these archives for MANY discussions and links to instructions for making the tool. If you get lucky, there may be a brickster in your town who will loan or rent one to you.

I've read here that poly bushings use the old outer ring from the old bushings, so you don't press it out. You cut/burn the rubber out of the old bushing. Either way, it will be an all-day chore.

If you make a tool, and you cannot find a hardened bolt the correct size, buy several standard grade bolts because you will almost certainly break some.