I need to remove the crankshaft pulley to install a new timing belt on my '85 240GL.

Unfortunately the bolt seems frozen and I cannot loose the bolt. A friend of mine has suggested to heat the bolt with a torch.

Do you think this method is "safe"? Any suggestion to remove this damned bolt?
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'85 240GL

If you had a manual transmission you wouldn't have this problem. We were made with two feet, so what's the big deal?

Best idea for tightening, from the Pacific Northwest. Put the starter from you boat on to retighten.
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01 V70 2.4 M5 and a Mini

... and it would likely damage the rubber in the "pulley" (harmonic balancer).

You don't say how you are trying to remove the bolt, but for sure you need to "counter-hold" the crankshaft.

The "Rope Trick" makes a quick and easy counter-hold. You can do a search for it here, but the basic steps are simple:

1 - Pull plugs and rotate crank to #1 0° TDC Compression
2 - Verify #1 and #2 valves closed - look thru oil fill hole, cams pointed upward.
3 - Rotate crank about 90° past TDC
4 - Stuff 3' to 4' of clothesline into # 1 plug hole, leaving 6" outside
5 - Use socket, breaker bar, and pipe extension to loosen pulley bolt
6 - Tighten bolt the same way, but start with crank about 90° before #1 TDC Comp.

To my knowledge, this is the only "trick" holding tool alternative that allows tightening the bolt to book spec of 44 lb ft, then an additional 60° (B230), or to 122 ft lbs. for B21/23.

Here's what one 1st time user had to say:
"The "rope trick" for holding the engine still while removing the harmonic balancer bolt worked like a charm. Honestly, I doubted that it would, but WOW!"
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Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

Intresting idea. Does the rope take up enough of the volume in the cylinder so there isn't enough room for the piston to complete its upward travel? Leaving the piston pressing against soft rope, unable to reach the top?
Sounds better than the Haynes method of jamming a large screwdriver in the ring gear, allowing it to bear on the transmission case. Kenneth

Correct. And as long as the piston is set to TDC on the compression stroke as instructed, both valves are closed on their seats, so there's no risk of valve damage as the rope is compressed.

Don Foster apparently introduced the "Rope Trick" to the Brick Board, but I suspect it's decades old. I've known it for years, but went and bought the "correct" tool a few years ago anyhow. Playing "pro" I guess.

But I just used the rope on an '80 240 that had been dead for 9 years, and can't imagine anything easier and faster. I use about 3' to 4' of soft clothesline, which seems about right with the piston about 1/4 of the way down.
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Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

While it works only for removing the bolt, it is what I have used.

1/2-inch drive breaker and socket (forgot what size). Socket on snug, breaker set up to the left of the car in a way that it will not move as the crank turns clockwise. Maybe on a bracket or frame member.

Hit the starter and turn it back as quick as possible. Works for me every time.

But - Bruce you know these cars better than do I - is there any harm to the engine doing it this way?

For the re-torquing I have the counterhold tool. WIWILPS (Worth its weight in lollipops)

Regards, and thanks,

bob

:>)

For safety's sake, before you hit the starter, you might want to disconnect the ignition coil's center wire, to be absolutely guaranteed the monster doesn't start on you.

The one time I used this breaker-bar method, the car rose up a few inches before the bolt let loose -- but it DID let loose, as advertised.

The rope trick is less violent and more predicable, good for us old folks who feel we have already had surprises enoough to last a lifetime.
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jds

Hi Bob,

I suppose the breaker bar method is no worse than an impact wrench, which I guess the pros like Rhys use for both removing and installing -- working against the clock as they do.

But having the time, I'd rather go by the book and torque to spec. With the rope method so easy and safe, I just can't see any point in going with the breaker bar, jamming flywheel teeth etc. (I even saw one post that recommended pulling the starter to jam the flywheel!) Those methods make no sense to me, when a such quick an simple alternative is always at hand.
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Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

Wouldn't use an impact wrench on a late B230F as the crank is not forged but cast and has been known to snap.

Rope trick seems to be safest, but a 4 ft cheater would not be a bad accessory.

I'd like to talk to the guy, whoever or wherever he is, that claimed to have snapped a crank with an impact tool. I use impact on B230, and everything else. The factory installed the pulleys with impact, so its good enough for me.
Nonetheless, the rope trick obviously works well, and without air tools even I would be using it on automatic cars.

I'm an amateur and don't use an impact every day so I use an impact to remove and a counterhold tool to torque to specs. I don't feel confident enough to know when tight is tight enough with the impact.
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Thanks everyone for all the help, Doug C. 81 242 Brick Off Blocks, turbo bars and wheels, M46; 86 244, B230, 150k , auto; 81 242 Turbo, intercooled, M46, 122k.

Been using rope in the #1 since 1962. Was introduced to it when I saw my Grandfather stuffing baling twine down the spark plug hole on our old John Deere ( didja ever try getting the flywheel offa an old "Poppin Johnny"? ).

LJPayne, BSEE, MSME
ASME