New air mass meter plug, new air mass meter, new ECU. Wire harness good. Car starts, runs for 10 mins then shuts off. Still. What else to try?

Sarah and Rover the 2nd - soon to be a sunken reef

I have a bunch of known, good used 240 coils, if you'd like to hazard a few bucks and shipping, I'd be happy to send you or anyone else one. Swapping it out is easy and at the very least, it's a great diagnostic tool.

Jim
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Jim - '67 122, '71 1800E, '82 242 GLT, '89 240 DL, '95 850 T5

This was something that a lawnmower mechanic told me about trying to fix my riding mower that did the same thing, so here goes; he said that many times the coil would heat up after whatever amount of time and expand enough to not be working any more and then the motor would shut off. A little while later you could start the engine again and it would run fine until about the same amount of time and then it would just die again. If you have a spare car or a friends car it would be a very easy test swap to do.

Did you try jumping the fuel pump relay? Look in the 700/900 FAQS in the won't run start section for additional help. The relay could heat up just enough so the contacts don't contact any more. The jump is really easy to do. Go get test leads at auto store for around $1.50 and jump the fuses. Do a search to find the right ones as I forget which one is the fuel pump relay.

Good Luck

I'm trying the new fuel pump relay tonight, my mechanic buddy suggests that next.
Didn't think about the coil - but the car will restart immediately after stalling. Something to try, though!

Sarah

Does LH2 have a power stage? Heat related failure. Fuel relay(s) getting hot? Long shots but thinking of heat.

Pretty much has to be a stoppage of fuel or spark, doesn't it? If you have a tach, does it drop to zero as soon as the engine starts to fail?...or die down in synch? No tach? - put a timing light on a spark plug wire and watch it until the engine quits. If, as the engine dies, the light keeps flashing in synch with RPM, an ignition problem is unlikely.

Then it's fuel. Test again with a noid light on an injector, or a long screwdriver or such on an injector body while you press the other end (preferably the plastic handle!) to your ear and listen to the injector clicking. Same test - does it continue clicking in synch with engine RPM as the engine fades out? If not, suspect a bad ECU. A faint possibility is the main LH fuse on the left inner fender, but I bet you've checked? Easy to pull, clean contacts on fuse and holder and try again.

If the engine will pull a load within its 10-min run time, it sounds like fuel delivery by the pumps and filters is good. If the time-to-failure is relatively constant, it does sound like a heat related problem....something is expanding as things warm up and going open circuit. I can understand your frustration - tough problem!
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Bob (son's 81-244GL B21F/M46, dtr's 83-244DL B23F/M46, 94-944 B230FD; hobbycar 77 MGB, and a few old motorcycles)