he he he, I did not write this, but I'm parting out an Audi CS and happened to be at another website where they talk about cars (I think).

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Uhmmm... So, I just ...went to check the turbo for shaft play.

Yeah... you could say there is some... the friggin nut that holds on the front turbine wheel was off, resting against the fins... just hanging out... consequently the turbine was just "a little" loose... Amazingly, there appears to be no damage to any of the fins or anything else... WEIRD... and lucky, too.

SO... I put the nut back on and torqued it to maybe 20 ft-lbs... judging by the grunt-o-meter... using a 1/4 inch socket wrench and prying a screw driver and my fingers between the fins to hold from spinning ..

So... you think this could explain the massive POOF of smoke the other day on the highway and now the weird smoke that comes out of the cone filter while the car is resting after being run?

I'm going to go button up [things] let me know what you think is up with the turbo... also, why the hell would a nut come off that has been happily resting there for 15 years? I just don't get it.

This is just a friendly reminider to everyone - be sure to keep close watch of your nuts... apparently they can fall off without warning.

Just a qustion - would it be wise to put some low-grade lock-tite on that nut to keep this from happening again?
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This made me laugh. It did get me thinking though. Besides the thought that I'm sure glad I own an old Volvo and visit this forum where relatively mature/sane people speak a language I can (somewhat) understand, has anybody ever modified their PV w/ B18 to accept a turbocharger? More importantly, could the turbocharger off my totalled 1987 Audi 5000 be put on the old PV?

Hmmmmmmm

"B"

Is the thing still loose. There should be NO axial play in the the turbo whatsoever. You may have lost a seal/ bearing in the turbo center section. The turbo as you know, mounts compressor and turbine blades on a common shaft an bearing assembly. If you lose a bearing the shaft/bearing clearances can really open up killing the seal and end up with oil in the turbine (hot) section (making smoke out the tailpipe under boost) and in the compressor as well. Bearing failure can also induce shaking fasteners loose as well, I guess.

All turbo rotating components are extremely well balanced due to the extreme operating speeds (100K as i recall) and any damage or distortion can be fatal in short order.

Good chance it was just it's time... actually, 15 years is a pretty long life in "turbo years".

Good luck

Mike

Someone on f\Turbobricks just sold a B20 turbo monifold. I hemmed and hawed a little too long, and someone else snapped it up. Had a modified D-Jet manifold as well.
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I'm JohnMc, and I approved this message.

You had me. I missed the transition to quoted text and made it down to the part about the cone filter before questioning the post's origin in volvo sanity. Figured you were talking about your "other" car maybe.

Yeah... I was starting to worry. Jamming a screwdriver into the compressor vanes??? Duh.

I check my nuts regularly. Haven't lost one yet, 27 years and counting.
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Chris, Dartmouth NS Canada 70 M-B 280SE, 83 245DL, 84 244 turbo, 90 780 turbo, 92 VW Golf, 90 740 Rex/Regina

Funny timing... I just came across this...

http://www.perfectpower.com/Technical_info/turbovs.asp

I second Steve's opinion about supercharging. But each has it's technical benefits, it's own adherents and gurus, and it's own drawbacks. You've probably already seen this (scroll down after you open the page):

http://www.v-performance.com/recent.html

Still want to use the turbo from your 5000?

Take care,
Aiden
Boulder, CO
1957 PV444L
1966 220 (For Sale?)

"Reservations should be made in advance as kits are done on a custom basis and take approximately 10 weeks from the date of order to delivery. The current price is $3595 for the new Mikuni carbed version, $2995 for the fuel injected version, including recent upgrades, plus $75 in refundable core charges. The kit comes complete with Autorotor Supercharger, Laminova tube based water to air intercooler, Nissens intercooler radiator, new Mikuni carb for the carbed version, and all other parts needed to make this a bolt on kit. The fuel injected version does not include a programmable fuel injection system, throttle body, throttle body adapter plate, throttle body linkage or air filter."

:) hmmmm

What are Mikuni carbs? I just rebuild my SU's. Well dam, there goes the supercharger idea.

I'm very interested in the P1800 race car they built, then sold :-(

I think it's a heck of a deal at $15K (maybe less since I already have a good '65 P1800s with many of the brake and suspension upgrades done.) Pull the Rover V8 out and put in a supercharged B20 2.5 pulling 300 BHP...Look Out Willow Springs!

If I manage to get my more immediate projects out of the way, I may just be calling them!

Heck, I spent more than that buying a Mitsubishi Lancer for running errands!

"This is just a friendly reminider to everyone - be sure to keep close watch of your nuts... apparently they can fall off without warning."

The best advice I have seen in a long time.:)
(sorry, I just couldn't let this one go by)

Dennis C

I would suspect one of two causes: either you are getting some new vibration in the turbo (shaft wear or a chipped/broken vane) or something seized up (temporarily?) and allowed the nut to break its original torque setting.

Putting anything inside the turbo - against the vanes - is a HUGE NO-NO! You can very easily bend or break a vane, and your nice turbo will be several pounds of junk. There must be some way - perhaps a special tool? - that will lock the shaft while you tighten the nut.

LocTite is a good idea, but for something that spins so fast, I'd be more tempted to cross-drill the nut and shaft (after reaching the recommended torque setting) and install some aircraft safety wire to keep things where they're supposed to be.

Good luck with the car. Let's all hope it turns out OK.

BTW, I'd be much more likely to install a supercharger on a B18 or B20 rather than a turbo. Much less plumbing, no turbo lag, etc. etc. etc.