I am aware that 60% of your braking comes from your front brakes . So I have this question to ask. The local volvo dealer told me that once your rotors wear down you cannot resurface them or machine them. Now my front rotors are about a 14 monts old , they are a little grooved or scored . Can I bring them into a shop that I know and have them slightly machined . They are so thick that even if a little metal is taken off ,I'm sure they will still meet the specific specs. All information regarding this issue would be appreciated. Thanks rf64.

INMO, Dealers, volvo or any other car brand, are notorious for telling customers they need new brakes and resurface of rotors, almost no one says no when they are told they need new brakes. The one time I took my Mazda MPV to the dealer for its 30K service (it was under waranty, i thought, ok Ill try them) Mid morning I got a call , manager said, new brakes and resurface was recomended total would be $350. I called the napa store, total for new pads, new rotors would be 100, so i told the dealer no, and picked up the parts on the way home. When I pulled the wheels off the pads had 90% of material left on them, the rotors were in spec, like new. Ive heard similar stories from others.

In our area, machine shop time is more than new rotors are worth.

Seems to happen all the time - we had an 89 MPV, and the dealer tried to sell us new rotors and pads just about every oil change. Toyota tried to do the same with the Previa after about 25k kms, even the local Volvo dealer told me the pads were 95% worn on the 245 and I needed rotors, they were in fact about half-worn and the rotors weren't even grooved.

Don't worry about the rotors unless there's pulsation. The new pads will wear in to the grooves, after 14 months they can't be grooved too deeply unless you let the pads get down to metal - if you did, then replace the rotors, they'll just eat the pads in a hurry. Don't bother with machining.
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Chris, Dartmouth NS Canada 70 M-B 280SE, 83 245DL, 84 244 turbo, 90 780 turbo, 92 VW Golf, 90 740 Rex/Regina

If there is no vibration during high speed braking, which would indicate run-out on the rotors, then just install new pads. The appearance of the rotor visually means nothing, only a dial indicator or your observations while driving matter. Turning the rotors to make them look pretty is a waste of time and money. Replacing 14 month old rotors would also be a waste.
Don't buy offshore rotors that are not made to north american standards. My supplier sent me a pair of "Charging Rhino" brand rotors a few years ago for a domestic car I was repairing. I sent them back unopened.

have to agree with the pewter scooter. the shop i invested in (and worked in as service writer for 2 years to get my investment back!) never turned brake rotors. they are relatively inexpensive and central to the safety of the occupants that turning them is simply false economy. shops dont reline brake shoes anymore for the same reason and in the near future i'm sure brake lathes will go the same way. here on long island you cant even buy a new brake lathe setup from a jobber, but there are plenty of used one available - you can guess why...
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oceanre 91 240 wagon 260k

advance auto brand new front rotor 23 bucks
neat as pin slick as a whistle and

well you get the picture

There is a spec that shows the minimum allowable thickness on the rotors. If groove removal would require turning to under that spec, you can either replace the rotors or live with the grooves.

Ventilated rotors have a difference spec that solids. Yours are likely ventilated.

Your dealer is right in that a rotor worn down and turned and now at the minimum thickness cannot be turned again. Did he give you the measurement of your rotors and the specification minimum?

Depending on the severity of grooving, you might get a set of soft pads (AutoZone house brand, e.g.) and allow them to wear into the grooves.

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)

"They are so thick that even if a little metal is taken off ,I'm sure they will still meet the specific specs"

That is interesting, might I ask what you are basing this observation on? I do not have my Volvo spec book in front of me as I write this, but as I recall a new rotor is in the area of 22mm and discard is 20mm. That gives you a grand total of 2mm worth of wearable/machinable surface, that comes out to about .03937 per side. A really light cut on the rotors is in the area of .004-.006" per side so you are looking at a minimum of .008-.012" off of the rotors. Reality is that you have probably worn far more than that off of the rotors in normal wear and tear and now you want to machine them and make them flat and bitchen. Another fact, those rotors that are often times machined because they are a little warped will be thinner when they are done and less capable of handling the temperatures generated. This means that they are going to warp even faster now. I've seen it far too many times to not believe it is so.

As far as a set of $23.00 rotors goes, you get what you pay for and sometimes you don't even get that. I've tried most combinations of pads and rotors and I'd like to believe that there is a cheaper, better, or at least as good as option out there to factory brake parts but it just ain't so. I run either ATE rotors or factory rotors and always factory pads. Spend a little more money and buy the ATE rotors and get a set of factory pads and you will be happier.

Mark