My 2003 BMW just flashed the -Check Brake Linings- script across my dash display.
Just over the 50k warrenty where the dealer would have had to take care of it.
Dealer wants 1400 bucks to change the brakes and rotors out.
The question is-where do I go for parts like rotors and shoes for this ride other than the dealership-I don't need high performance just good quality replacement parts. Oh yeah, there's somekind of electrical sensor that sends the siginal to the onboard computer that tells when these parts are getting near the end. I found a website that shows me how to over ride the sucker-should I replace the sensor(I do check things like this myself) or over ride and go on.
Cars now out of warrentie for brakes and normal wear items-engine and tranny and diff have another 50k warrentie.
Thanks to all
Poolman

Try this
http://www.bavauto.com/

The sensors are a wire in a plastic pellet that attaches to brake pads. About $15 to replace. The sense electronics measures if the insulation on the wire is gone and the wire is touching the rotor or if the wire is completely cut through. If you want to defeat it, buy a new one, plug it in and just mount it to the strut or other convienent place instead of on the pad.

The dealer's OEM pads are the quietest but others are less dusty and or higher performing. The guys at Bavarian Auto know their stuff. They are BMW enthuseasts(SP).

You should be able to get by with just pads at that milage. (About $50 per axle plus sensors if I waited too long.) I would just change the pads on my wife's 2003 530i when it gets there.

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'96 965, 16' wheels, Michelin Pilot Sports, rear 18mm bar + Koni, 201 HP cams, 130K. Put 200K on '85 745 TD.

Thanks Jbowers-the rotors have quiet a lip on the outside edge-are these safe to turn?
Thanks again
Poolman

If they are braking evenly, I wouldn't as there isn't much margin between "new" and the official minimum thickness.

I would use a sander or grinder to knock off the lip so it won't cut into the sensor wire so soon. (I've done this many times.)
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'96 965, 16' wheels, Michelin Pilot Sports, rear 18mm bar + Koni, 201 HP cams, 130K. Put 200K on '85 745 TD.

FCP's alter ego lists parts for bimmers: http://www.foreigncarpartsonline.com/
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97 S90 with 188K miles still going strong

Hi Poolman,

This sounds just like many of the recent Volvo 960 posts except with "BMW" inserted where Volvo ususally goes.

There are many discount BMW parts places on the web as you already know. Here's only one : http://www.bimmerpartswholesale.com/

Regarding the sensor that tells you when to change the brake pads....... sounds like it'a a 'nice to have' option but very few (if any) other cars have it so I don't see a problem with overriding it.

DEWFPO

P.S. Hope your recovery is going well.
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1998 S90 071,245 and 1995 964 154,100

Thanks Dewfpo-I'll be checking the site out you were kind enough to advise-as far as the recovery-seem to be feeling better each day now-Doc said to take it slow though,no golf for awhile-too cold here in southern Va mountians anyway LoL.
Be talking too ya
Poolman

Hey Poolman, when you get done hanging your new pads, rotors, and sensor and you fire the car up and take it for a test drive and the damn light is still on for the brakes try this: shut the car off, turn the key to the on position and wait for the brake warning light to go off, cycle the key off and restart the car, light should now go off and stay off. It should take approximately one minute of key on time for the brake warning light to go through it's self check and turn itself off.

Good luck,
Mark

My hats off to everyone (and I need it to cover my balding head)thanks guys;
Rule 308 greatly appreciate the pointer in getting the brake light to go off,know how I can reset the oil service light by chance hmmm.
Great site with great people
Poolman

Try this site http://www.bimmerdiy.com/ I have found most trouble lights can be reset by disconecting the battery for a couple of minutes. Know your radio code before doing it.
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'96 965 170,000+