Ok, here's what I have. When I press the windshield spray button, I just hear a clicking inside the car and near the washer pump. However, nothing sprays out of the nozzles. So, I tried blowing through the hose from the pump to the nozzles...I can blow through it. So, I ordered some used pumps from vlvworld. They came quite rusted...anyways, same sound and no spray. Anyone have any clues? Are there any relays I can check? I have checked the connections at the pump. I also tried new nozzles...from IPD. They were of no use, they were two oblong and would not snap into hood and face the windshield. They also didn't make a difference.

Is there a second pump for the rear sprayer on a wagon? I don't get any rear spray but the front works fine. Remember, the wiring issues on wagons leave a newer owner wondering what is going on! Furthermore, is there a rear reservoir, or does it all get pumped from the front? Thanks!

There should be two pumps mounted right next to one another on the front of the reservoir tank. Yes, both front and back pumps feed off same reservoir. You'll want to check for clogs from the pump to the rear of the wagon.

FYI that only applies to 1981+newer...my 1980 has a single pump at the front with a separate reservoir in the rear - the two washer circuits are completely separate in 1980 (and older I'm guessing).

From my personal experience with washer pumps a writeup on what worked for me:

Repairing windshield washer pumps:

If the windshield washer pump doesn't work on your 240 and you have determined you have power to the unit there is a good chance that all that is wrong with it is that the pump is seized up.

Begin by removing the pump from the car. It will be necessary to plug the hose from the washer fluid reservoir or all the fluid will be lost. A pencil stub works nicely to plug the hose. Care should be taken while removing the hose as the plastic nipples can become brittle with age.

Remove the four screws on the bottom that hold the assembly together. Once you have separated the motor from the pump take the motor back to the car and reconnect the electrical lead. Turn on the ignition key and move the wiper control to the wash position. If the motor does not operate check again for 12 volts at the connector. If 12 volts is present and the motor doesn't run this fix isn't going to help you. I've tried to repair four of these and only one had a bad motor. Once you have determined that the motor is good turn your attention to the pump assembly.

You will probably find that one or both of the gears in the pump are either seized or binding on their shafts. Remove and set aside the wheel that the motor drives. *Apply pressure to the top of the shaft and push it in. A little high quality penetrating fluid might help. As you apply pressure the shaft and the attached brass gear will slide out; grasp the brass gear and pull the shaft free. (*I have been told that this is a little confusing and that all I need to say is remove the bottom plate being careful to not lose the plastic gear which may or may not be tight on the shaft)

The second gear still in place is made of plastic and can be brittle. Work carefully and try not to put pressure on one point. Apply penetrating fluid and give it a chance to work if the gear is tight. Once the gears have been removed and everything is cleaned up you may find it necessary to slightly ream out the plastic gear with an undersized drill bit (by hand!) The shaft with the brass gear might turn easier if its opening in the pump base was reamed slightly as well. I didn't find it necessary to do this but the plastic gears seem to shrink over time (much like the gear in the speedometers). I lubed the friction points with white lithium grease before reassembly.

The brass plate needs to have any build up cleaned off and be careful of the rubber gasket. I found it easiest to remove the and put it in position on the pump base before reassembling. Sealant shouldn't be necessary, but if you decide to use it apply it so that the excess squeezes to the outside rather than internally. Replace the wheel that couples with the motor; care should be taken that they engage properly as you bring the two assemblies together. Reassemble the unit using moderate pressure on the four screws. Arrive at this final moderate pressure after several series of initial crisscross patterns of snugging the screws up.

Zee, a fellow Brickboarder, had the following helpful addition:
I smear a little bit of Jack's Formula grease on all rubber gaskets used
in underwater applications. Available at most good swimming pool stores, it
is made by popular pool pump manufacturer, Hayward. It is a synthetic
petroleum jelly that keeps the rubber lubricated and supple in chemically
harsh environments. Unlike PJ, it will not deteriorate the rubber.

Randy's comprehensive instructions are the ultimate solution to a stuck pump, but perhaps try this shortcut first - this worked fine for me.

Remove the bottom cover plate on the pump (very carefully, the rubber gasket is old, tired, and almost certainly stuck to one or both surfaces). Ensure the gasket is off the pump body for the next step.

Place the main body of the pump with its now-exposed gears in a small plastic (eg: margarine) tub of vinegar. The vinegar is a weak acid (acetic) and will gradually dissolve the scale and mineral deposits that are the likely reason for stuck gears.

After a day or so in this bath, remove the pump and work the gears gently to free them up. If OK, reassemble with the aforementioned grease on the gasket. If not OK - carry on, using Randy's procedure.

Plug in the wiring connector and briefly dry-test the pump. If the pump runs, reinstall.
--
Bob (son's 81-244GL B21F/M46, dtr's 83-244DL B23F/M46, my 94-944 B230FD; hobbycar 77 MGB, and a few old motorcycles)

I think you need to do a bit more diagnosis ... how about running the pump with a jumper so you can see if there's a clog at the outlet or somewhere else along the way. Or maybe you can blow air through the nozzles but they're too plugged to let much juice through. Very common to get gunk lodged in the nozzles ... just find a fine enough wire to ream it out.

--
'81 GLT 245 @ 259K; '83 DL 175K

Ok, forget everything...I'm stupid and obviously not familier with the car I have owned for a few years...I just figured out you must pull back on the lever for the front to spray...and that the button is strictly for the rear. Sorry if you are reading this.

No problem, fun to see three messages colliding on the board ... wheeeee!

--
'81 GLT 245 @ 259K; '83 DL 175K

You can get new generic replacement pumps at any decent auto parts store for about $20. When I couldn't find the correct WSW pump for my old Fiat, I used a generic one and it lasted as long as I drove the car (2 years). Buy one with the correct sized hose nipples, connect it, wire it up, and find somewhere to attach it. It should work.

However, before you replace the pump, check that your WS washer fluid isn't slushing up in the tank or the lines. Some weak blue fluid that a gas station gave me last year turned into a Slurpee at 20F and made the pumps not work until I removed the tank, drained it, washed everything out with hot water, and refilled with a fluid of lower freezing point. (Unfortunately, I refilled with RainX orange washer fluid, which made my car's wipers chatter, but that's another story.)

Also before replacement, check that the pump is getting power using a 12V, 12W (or so) test lamp across the the terminals of the plug leading to the pump. Why the wattage requirement? Simple - a high resistance path leading to the pump may be able to pass enough current to light a small test light or move a voltmeter, but might not be able to run a pump. A 12W(1A) lamp approximates the load of the pump.

-b.