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Hello Estonia -
Aside: When I was very young and the nations of the world changed very seldom, my father taught us kids about the countries in regions. I remember the countries in Scandanavia as Norway, Sweden, Finland and Denmark. Also I remember the countries named the Baltics: Latvia, Lithuania, and Estonia. It is a grand thing that we can converse! Especially about Volvos.
I have reviewed the schematics I have for both the 1978-79 240s and the 1987-88 240s.
The newer one uses the 5-pin switches because of the master panel in the driver's door handle. Five switches there so the driver can control all four windows and also cut power to the rear windows so the kiddos can't play with'em.
The earlier system, switches in the control panel and the E-brake console, used the 4-pin switches. That system was also a lot simpler.
Relays needed: In both old and new systems there is only one. Its sole
purpose is to deny power to the windows if the key is not available. Most (but not all) of the cube-shaped relays have numbered terminals that are the same for all such relays. The coil is between terminals #85 and #86. Terminal #30 goes to the armature (moves when coil is energized).
If the coil is NOT energized, AND the relay has 5 prongs, terminal #30 is connected to terminal #87a. This is not needed for power windows so the that relay usually relay has only 4 prongs.
If the coil IS energized, terminal #30 is connected to Terminal #87.
Relay connections are Terminal #86 to any fuse "hot" when the key is in Position II, it is blue-yellow in my book.
Terminal #85, black, is connected to a ground.
Terminal #30, brown, is connected to Fuse #10 in the 1979 book, to #12 in the 1988 book.
Terminal #87, 2 reds, is to the switches, to a pin that might be marked +.
On the switches, same side as the + pin is a - (minus) pin. It gets a black wire to a ground.
On the switches, opposite side from the + and (-) pins are pins marked #1 and #2. Wires are different left door to right.
Left side. Red from motor goes to a connector and comes out blue, to pin #2
Black from the motor goes to a connector, comes out gray, goes to pin #1.
Right side. Red from motor goes to a connector, comes out green, to pin #1.
Black from motor goes to connector, comes out white, to pin #2.
The connectors are so that the wires can be unhooked to remove the door.
I hope this info will get you started on your project. I have found that having power windows is very helpful. Here in the southern city of Houston (cold wave = 38F, summer = 90F) air conditioning is a must. When it is broken, being able to roll down both passenger side windows 4 to 6 centimeters sets up a whirling breeze inside, cools well unless the humidity is high.
Good luck,
Bob
:>)
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