I had a hellish time with my tank. I ended up cutting the tube-nut from the supply pipe so I could unscrew the union from the tank and get the bugger out. New nipple union and short chunk of hose were required to replace.

Tank had to be boiled and repaired by radiator shop due to corrosion at the flange (yup, the sides near the top, shop guys were flabbergasted. I figured the undercoating peeled back just enough at the top to trap moisture.).

Radiator paint stinks so whole thing got scuffed, repainted and 3M rubberized undercoated prior to installation (6 light coats). To do again I may use one of the do it yourself bed-liner products.

Tip: Totter on down to your local hardware store and get a roll of RV sealer. This stuff is body putty (just like the hard caked stuff you scraped off the old tank to get it out) in a very convenient roll and is especially made to seal flanged surfaces like the tank to the trunk.

My tank did not have a hose connecting the filler to the tank (that's why it has to come up so close to the front flange). I wish it did 'cause R&R would have been much easier.



--
Mike!

While looking over these Volvo authorized replica tanks (122 and 1800), we concerned ourselves more with the one-size-fits-all 1800 tanks fitment to both S's and E's.
When we got our first 122 tank sample there was an obvious difference from the original: the fuel feed line is a fixed unit but the front of the tank must be flush to drop it in the trunk.
You have to do some cutting in the trunk floor/tank preimeter to drop it in.
Cut two slots (hacksaw?) and peel the metal upward, drop the tank in and push the metal tab back down. Paint the bare metal at the slots, then gum it up real good with the putty.
The tank is already painted black, you could drop some Dynamat on top. As far as undercoating before installation, I wouldn't settle for anything less than 3M brand Rubberized Undercoating.
Best,
Shayne (ipd)

Tom,

The helpful people at IPD should tell you what kind of coating it ships with. When I had my tank boiled I coated it in rubberized undercoat.

Seems OK but not sure I would do this again. ZeroRust is a great alternative you would need some nonwinter heat to allow it to cure properly.

You might consider posting at the autobodyforum and see what the painters/bodyworkers say.

Happy Holidays, its freakin' cold in Kansas!

-Mario E.