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Tailgate Wiring Done: Report on job and aftermarket harness quality. 200

My daughter and I replaced the tailgate wiring harnesses on both sides of her new 1990 245 yesterday. She decided to buy the harnesses from IPD to save some money over the price of the genuine Volvo harnesses. Here are our opinions of the job and the product in case this info might help someone.

Our conclusions about the job: The job is pretty straight forward if you have either good weather or a garage. It's nice to have a dry warm place to work with room to put the door on padded sawhorses so you can work comfortably. We found that lubing the thick part of the harness with spray silicone helps when you pull it through the narrow parts of the door.

Our conclusions about the harness quality: Low. The harness came in a Scan Tech package. The wires are noticeably lighter gauge than the original harness. The total amount of copper in the wire cross-section looks like the difference between 16 gauge and 18 gauge. This was disappointing. Also, a closer at a sample of a Volvo wire compared to a ScanTech wire revealed that the original Volvo wire consists of five separate smaller "packages" of very fine wires bundled together into one wire. It's like five wires bundled together, with each of the five wires made of tons of very small strands of copper. In other words, the original wiring contains more copper and is made of many more and much finer strands of wire bundled together. I believe this is exactly what the application calls for because of all the bending that goes on in the hinges. Also, two of the female connectors on the new harness lacked the little barbs that need to be bent up to hold them in the plastic plugs they go in. I needed to replace these two connectors. Next time I'm buying from Volvo.

This is what we learned. Hope this helps someone out there.








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    Tailgate Wiring Done: Report on job and aftermarket harness quality. 200


    Thanks for the report. This is the next job on my 85 245. I was considering doing one side at a time, lifting just enough to thread the new harness while supporting the tailgate from the rafters of my garage. Was it easier to remove the tailgate completely do you think?








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      Tailgate Wiring Done: Report on job and aftermarket harness quality. 200

      I've only done the job once, so haven't tried it without removing the tailgate. I liked it this way though. It made a great set-up without a lot of twisting my neck and other body contortions.

      I read rstarkie's post about this. The original nice wires go from the roof to the lower part of the tailgate. With the tailgate on the sawhorses, it would be easy to cut the connectors off (the ones on both sides that plug in inside the tailgate itself) about 2-3 inches from their terminal connectors, and splice in a section of regular 16 gauge automotive wire about 12-18 inches long. Then you could pull the good wires still in the original sheathing, up through the top of the door/hinges and have nice unused high-quality wire at the stress points. I think you'd end up with three extra connections in each wire this way, two in the tailgate where you splice in the length of regular 16 gauge, and one in the ceiling where you connect the connector to the fresh end of the original harness. You could reduce that to one new joint per wire if you had new proper connectors available to you. (Maybe there's a cleaner way I'm not seeing.) If you don't mind the extra connections/joints in the wires, you'd be fine. In fact, I might do it this way next time. It would be cheaper, and at the real weak link, the hinge, you'd have "unused" high-quality Volvo wire. I don't think the extra joints in the wires would amount to any kind of problem if you soldered them nicely and covered the joints with shrink wrap. You could probably just use a high quality insulated butt connector and forget the shrink wrap.

      Check out Noble Part Number S-12H butt connectors at Carquest. A bag of 50 costs $8 for 16-14 gauge. The metal crimps nicely and securely, better than others I've used, and has a thicker wall than cheap butt connectors. Plus the insulation is transparent with just a touch of blue, so you can see exactly when the stripped portion of the wire you are crimping is fully in the metal portion of the connnector. Since I discoved these, I don't use any of the cheap ones anymore. My son redid his 82 tailgate just using these good ones.

      Good luck.








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      Tailgate Wiring Done: Report on job and aftermarket harness quality. 200

      I haven't done a harness in quite awhile but when I did I supported the tailgate on a short stepladder and did one side at a time. I also did not purchase new harnesses but rather added some wire which allowed me to pull the original harness up and flex a new part of the old harness. I wrote the procedure up and if you would like a copy drop me an email.

      Randy








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    Tailgate Wiring Done: Report on job and aftermarket harness quality. 200

    My impression was the Volvo harnesses were quite reasonable in price, so I would have trusted IPD as an application-aware vendor would have already scoped out the difference in quality and offered the best deal or both with the compromises known. Thanks for your enlightenment to the contrary.








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      Tailgate Wiring Done: Report on job and aftermarket harness quality. 200

      IPD has been selling Scantech crap for a long time. I stopped buying bushings etc from them, I now only buy things I can't get anywhere else.
      --
      Dave Shannon
      Spring Valley, California
      '63 P-210
      '67 1800s
      '73 1800ES
      '88-240
      my pages








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        Tailgate Wiring Done: Report on job and aftermarket harness quality. 200

        IPD gets a premium price for their items presumably giving the Volvo enthusiast top quality parts. Once again it is disappointing to learn IPD sells inferior part. Dan








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        About those bushings... 200

        Do you have a favorite place to get bushings, etc.? I did rear torque rod bushings in poly from FCP and am replacing everything else (front and rear) this spring.








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          About those bushings... 200

          FCP has good bushings available if you ask for Boge, if you don't you'll get ScamTech. See my pages for some pics and text of RTA bushings, "OEM" from Volvo and Boge from FCP, same darn bushing 1/2 price. Volvo no longer sells the good bushings with metal imbedded in the rubber.
          --
          Dave Shannon
          Spring Valley, California
          '63 P-210
          '67 1800s
          '73 1800ES
          '88-240
          my pages







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