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Coolant drain+new temp sender+new temp sensor...now a cooling problem. 200 1984

Temp gauge rises as expected during warm up but then keeps rising all the way toward the top before I shut it down. This is after I drained the coolant for: turbo/exhaust manifold removal; temp sender replacement; temp sensor replacement; motor mount; alternator mounts.

I thought maybe I filled the coolant reservoir too quickly the first time, maybe trapping some air or something, so I drained and refilled again very slowly. Same creeping temp gauge. Doesn't seem like coolant is circulating--thermostat stuck closed? Thermostat was replaced about a year ago during water pump replacement by independent mechanic, not sure if oem used.

What do you think? Does it seem like the thermostat is the best place to start or should I be thinking about something else?

Corey

--
1966 122s + 1984 245ti = much to learn!








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    Coolant drain+new temp sender+new temp sensor...now a cooling problem. 200 1984

    Might be off track here, but does it actually seem as if the car is overheating? A bad voltage stabilizer (could be a compensator on this year) can cause the gauge to rise like you describe when in fact the car isn't hot at all.

    Just another angle of approach...








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    Coolant drain+new temp sender+new temp sensor...now a cooling problem. 200 1984

    If the upper rad hose stays cool even though temp gauge is past middle, then probably stuck thermostat.
    --
    1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont.








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    Coolant drain+new temp sender+new temp sensor...now a cooling problem. 200 1984

    Good advice from post. Did you have your heater turned to full open, hottest setting ? Important to do so when draining, and filling. Always a good idea to squeeze the top rad hose to insure all is moving in the system.

    Enjoy.
    --
    84, 242GLTi, 167K, 4+OD, still in rehab; 89, 245 DL, 318K, M 47, daily driver; 93, 245, auto, 167K ; and other toys.








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    Coolant drain+new temp sender+new temp sensor...now a cooling problem. 200 1984

    Because the t-Stat is so cheap, I replace the t-stat whenever I change the coolant, good insurance. When the t-stat is out of the housing, fill the head/block with coolant. This will prevent the air traped pocket behind the t-stat from keeping the coolant to enter the head.
    First, after you start the car and get near normal temps when the t-stat should open, squeeze the top radiator hose rapidly to get air out and coolant in. If no coolant enters the hose, the t-stat won't open, even when the engine is hot.
    --
    '89 245 sportwagon, destroyed by hit & run driver, RIP. '04 V70 2.5 T Sportwagon, 12k mi and '91 245 5-speed, 209k mi, replaced the '89








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      Coolant drain+new temp sender+new temp sensor...now a cooling problem. 200 1984

      Thermostat has a small "jiggle pin" in hole near the rim.
      Install thermostat so that pin + hole are at the top - this is the air bubble escape route.

      (Thermostat sits on block at an angle so rotating the tstat gets the hole to the top.)

      Theoretically this allows the system to vent air to the top and then out via the plastic reservoir tank; however I'm sure that squeezing the upper hose is also a good idea.


      --
      Sven: '89 245, IPD sways, electric rad. fan conversion, 28+ mpg - auto tranny. 850 mi/week commute. '89 245 #2 (wifemobile). '90 244 (spare, runs).








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        Coolant drain+new temp sender+new temp sensor...now a cooling problem. 200 1984


        I've also heard of a pump's impeller fins getting completely corroded away.

        Not likely since yours is only a year old (correct??) but you never know - maybe the pump installed was a reconditioned one, with old impellers, and high-mineral-content tap water used in the coolant mix.

        Anything's possible!
        --
        Sven: '89 245, IPD sways, electric rad. fan conversion, 28+ mpg - auto tranny. 850 mi/week commute. '89 245 #2 (wifemobile). '90 244 (spare, runs).







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