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Well,
I got the 1966 P220 into the backyard.
I fixed the two front windows so they move smoothly
up and down as the former owner had trash bags over the
frame and just shut the doors...LOL.
I cleanned out the interior and found a very nice set of
jumper cables hidden in the right side fender panel in
the back which was a nice bonus.
I then moved to the engine!
this is where I realized I have no ignition key
so I did the old screwdriver to the starter
just to see if the engine would crank and it does very nicely
but, it didn't want to kick at all.
I then took a plug out and realized there was no spark.
That brings me to my question.
In my 67' P220 I still have a coil but I was wondering
what everyone here was running in there 122's???
Does it really make sense to switch over to
an electronic ignition or is it better???
Any input is greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Karl
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While I have no experience with 100 series volvos, I do have experience with 60's american cars. I switched from a points distributor and stock coil on my 68 pontiac firebird 400 to a MSD capacitive discharge setup (points eliminated)with a high output coil and a model 6a box. It was a great improvement, massive increase in power and actually imporved fuel economy. the only 2 downsides were that it increased running temp by about 20 degrees F...as MSD warned...and the set up was pretty pricey. of course being a pontiac, the only distributor that they made for it (at that time at least) was a Billet aluminum deal and the plug wires had to be either cut-and-crimp yourself or off of a Big Block Chevy...in all i think I spent nearly $600 on the set up, but it was such ahuge improvement in drivability and realiability that i feel it was worth it. had I spent another $25 i could have had a model 6al box with an adjustable revlimiter...just a thought
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With increases like these would I use the same spark plugs?
Excuse my ignorance as it has been
a long time since I have tinkered under the
hood like this, but it just seems like I would need
to upgrade the spark plugs as well. Maybe I am wrong!
Karl
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Electronic is the way to go. There's nothing wrong with a breaker point ignition and you might want to stick with it until you get things sorted out and decide where to start spending your money. I've still got it on my 245, and aside from periodic points inspection/adjustment/replacement (BEFORE they burn and you're broken down in the middle of an intersection) it's entirely trouble-free.
But IMHO the efficiency and user-friendly nature of electronic (and the performance benefits) justifies the changeover on a car that'll be driven a lot, or aggressively.
BTW, when cranking with the screwdriver, were you supplying power to the coil as well? Just wondering, as you noted there was no ignition key so obviously the ignition wasn't switched on.
--
Chris, Dartmouth NS Canada 70 M-B 280SE, 83 245DL, 84 244 turbo, 90 780 turbo, 92 VW Golf, 90 740 Rex/Regina
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Hey Chris!
You hit the nail on the head....LOL
I was talking to a friend at work this morning and realized that
since there is no key, there indeed was no feed going to the coil.
Man, I felt silly...ha ha ha.
I am going to see if I can figure out what wires belong
where and try it again today. I can at least rig it so there
is power to the coil direct from the battery.
I haven't really messed around too much in the engine compartment for a long time. i did manage to put an alternator in my 67'
I just am trying to see if this 66' is worth trying to
get back on the road or if I should part it out.
If it runs and the trans in good then I can move on to the brakes.
If it doesn't run then I am not sure what I will do.
I will let you know how it goes later with
power to the coil this time....ha ha ha!
Anyone know a good source for an ignition switch with
a key???
Or can I take the switch apart and take the barrel to a locksmith
to have a new key made. (I didn't look to hard yesterday so I don't know.
thanks all!
Karl
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Remember that the 60's Volvo's had armored cables leading from the ignition switch tot he coil. You can't hotwire the coil (bypassing the ignition switch) unless you cut through the armoring. Not a casual task. Might be worthwhile taking another conventional coil with you. Run 12V to one side, ground the other through the distributor lead.
--
I'm JohnMc, and I approved this message.
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If it's at all like the 240/740s, there'll be two screws holding the actual switch to the lock cylinder. You can remove those screws, pull the switch and use a screwdriver to turn it to start the car.
--
Chris, Dartmouth NS Canada 70 M-B 280SE, 83 245DL, 84 244 turbo, 90 780 turbo, 92 VW Golf, 90 740 Rex/Regina
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Chris,
that's what my buddy here at work mentioned.
He told me the same, take the switch apart
and then I could turn with a screwdriver.
I just wasn't sure that the Volvo switch
was the same as the 60's american cars he
was talking about.
That is what I will do today. I am determined to
get her to fire up!!!
John,
I really didn't know about the wires, so thank you for the
suggestion with the coil. I will pull the one from my
67' if I should need to and that should do the trick,
provided that's the problem.
I think it is my inexperience with cars that is the
problem and I will bet once I take the switch apart and
turn the ingnition with a screwdriver it will fire.
Then I have to sort out the weber carb.....ha ha ha!
Thanks for all the help guys!!!!
Karl
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I've been pleased with the Pertronix Ignitor which I've had for 7 years & 70,000 miles.
As stated, this does not replace the coil, just the points and condensor.
--
'60 544, '68 220S, '70 145S, '72 144E, '86 745T
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Electronic ignitions don't replace the coil, they just replace the points and condensor in the distributor. Which is a worthwhile thing to do in my opinion. I've got a Crane XR700 system in the PV, I bought it used on eBay, and it was old enough to still say 'Allison' on it. I put it in 4 years ago and haven't needed to touch it since. I did take off my weak original coil (it was putting out thready red sparks, and the engine was a bit weak and wavery feeling at WOT and high rpms. When I put on the Crane I also put on an old mallory Voltmaster coil with big fat blue sparks and then the engine would pull cleanly to redline.
--
I'm JohnMc, and I approved this message.
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I'm pretty partial to the electronic system used in the 75 240.
It will work with the regular 122 coil, I think.
--
George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!
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