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blown dipstick-oil loss 700 1986

Even though I have cleaned the flametrap in the last 10,000 miles, the dipstick pushed out and I have lost alot of oil. More than a quart at least.Sure hope I did mess up the engine. How low can you go??? Still starts and is quiet.

Is there anything else that could cause this type of action other than plugging in the flame trap system?

thanks in advance

Mike

Go Seahawks
--
In Tacoma '86 245 200K+ and '86 740T- 215K+ both with M46








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    Dipstick backing out - casued not by what you'd think! 700 1986

    I have a 1989 765 w/210K miles and also had a dipstick that was backing out and spewing oil all over. Since I had thoroughly cleaned the breather box, replaced the turbo nipple, all hoses and even the disptick O-ring, I was at a complete loss.

    The problem was the dipstick had actually cracked! Broken at the groove in which the O-ring sits. Got a new dipstick from a 240 and found a slightly larger O-ring at the local hardware store. Problem solved. Dipstick is now firmly held in place.

    I assume that the dipstick was broken at the groove because of age and high temperatures. My only problem now is how to clean the insulation/fluffy rug on the bottom of the hood which is saturated with oil just above the dipstick.








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    blown dipstick-oil loss 700 1986

    Once you have made sure that the entire system is open and breathing properly you should replace the O ring on the dipstick.

    If you have missed something and the pressure is being caused by a restriction anywhere in the system changing the Oring might just point out the component that is next in line to not withstand the pressure... and if it is your rear main seal it will ruin your day.

    I chased this very problem and when I ran it by a Volvo tech he walked me through his check list: Flametrap and holder clean and unrestricted? Connecting hoses open and breathing? Brass nipple on the intake open? Oil seperator open and breathing freely (they don't have to be totally clogged to allow pressure to build up too much)? Answered "yes" to all questions and he said "then change the dipstick Oring" I did and I did not have a problem after that.

    Randy








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    blown dipstick-oil loss 700 1986

    Hello:

    The flametrap being clogged is usually the sign of a bigger problem. You will want to go over the whole crankcase breathing system with a fine toothed comb to solve this.

    Most likely-- a plugged oil separator box at the block. You can either replace or clean it, either way you will need a new o-ring (dealer part) for where it mates with the block.

    Contrary to what some have said, it is possible to get the box out without removing the intake-- you will need some extensions and a universal or wobble socket. Two 12mm bolts and a smaller (10mm?) bolt holding the wiring harness to the top of the box.

    After you have cleaned that out, check all the associated hoses and ports-- the skinny hose from the flame trap housing to the intake is infamous for plugging up.

    I just cleaned out the partially clogged oil separator box on my '92 945 and it stopped a slow front and rear main seal drip. On this car the small part of the y-fitting was completely clogged too-- I just bought a new one for it-- I had drilled out the old one, but it was very brittle.

    Good luck!


    --
    Herb Goltz, Aurora, Ontario, Canada '92 245 w/124K mi, '92 945T w/200K mi








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      blown dipstick (high crankcase pressure due to clogged Oil Trap) 700 1986

      I agree. If the oil dipstick is jumping out of the tube, and you've cleaned the flame trap and tubes, you've accomplished half the job. The other half of the cleaning operation will require you to remove the Oil Trap (breather box, oil separator) and dig out the hardened/dried oil with a screwdriver. There's a comprehensive post on this issue at the following link: http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=1043765 This post was written for a Turbo car, which does not have a flame trap, but does indeed have the same Oil Trap bolted to the block.

      Contrary to what some have said, it is possible to get the box out without removing the intake-- you will need some extensions and a universal or wobble socket. Two 12mm bolts and a smaller (10mm?) bolt holding the wiring harness to the top of the box.

      I will concur that you can remove the Oil Trap without removing the intake manifold. However, your hands will get scraped up if you aren't wearing mechanics gloves. Look closely at the pictures of the Oil Trap in the above link so you know how to get at the two 12mm or 13mm bolts (depends on the year) that hold it down. Also, if you have an '89 or later non-turbo car, or a 1990 or later Turbo car, there is a small bolt at the top of the Oil Trap that holds a wiring harness tether in place (since the engine harness passes right over top of it on the LH-2.4 cars). It will either be an 8mm or a 10mm and shouldn't be too hard to get off.

      With some practice, you'll be able to get this entire operation down to less than an hour (comprehensive cleaning of the Oil Trap, Flame Trap, and all associated tubes).

      God bless,
      Fitz Fitzgerald.
      --
      '87 Blue 240 Wagon, 268k miles.
      '88 Black 780, PRV-6, 149k miles.








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        blown dipstick - I bit the bullet and got all new parts 700 1986

        I just made it to Volvo dealer with 5 minutes to spare. Picked up all new breather box, adaptor hose, flame screeen, tee and o-ring for dipstick. $65. They didnt have the hoses- So I will have to hunt those down.

        Prior to this- about 10,000 miles ago I had cleaned all the above parts and all the oil leaks stopped. Period. So I was very surprised to have this dipstick pop out. I was totally amazed at the amount of debris that was in the system. The job wasn't all that bad to get at the box on the engine, did take a small 10mm wrench and some patience, but overall not too bad. I didnt not remove the intake. Hope it goes as smooth this time.

        Now my big worry is did I damage the engine by the amount of oil lost. I know these are tough engines, but they still need oil.


        Thanks everyone for the advice and quick responses.

        Mike

        Go Seahawks...
        --
        In Tacoma '86 245 200K+ and '86 740T- 215K+ both with M46








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    blown dipstick-oil loss 700 1986

    Check the FAQ's, tons of info!

    May be an internal engine problem or something as simple as a plugged oil separator under the intake.








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      blown dipstick-oil loss 700 1986

      I've had some success with cleaning out the oil separator box by filling it full of engine sludge cleaner (kerosene?), letting it drain, filling it, draining it, etc.....of course this is followed by an oil change, don't drive the car with an oil pan full of sludge remover. Not Good!

      It's not as thorough as pulling the box off, but a hell of a lot easier, and less dangerous than accidentaly bonking the seperator drain pipe out of position. Follow up with a full inspection and cleaning of the trap, hoses, ports, etc.

      Good luck! Josh







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