Hey everyone.. My 89 240 has not started since a couple of days when I was fixing my odometer problem. I checked for spark, the plugs are wet, and I have even switched computers with my brothers 240(also 89). I pulled the timing belt cover this morning out of curiosity and I found this(picture at the bottom):

My finger is on the mark on the timing belt and you can see the mark on the cam gear. My hunch is this is the problem of my no start problem, and I just wanted you brickboards to confirm this.

Thoughts?


Thanks everyone.

Whitt Wilkins

You can see the dimple in the Cam Sprocket, If you line that up with the Mark on the raer of the Timing Cover , Where is the Mark on the Crank? Line up the Line on the Crank Pulley with the TDC mark on the Lower Timing Cover and then see where your Cam mark is. That will tell you if you jumped a tooth.
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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me

Maybe the belt jumped a tooth like my wife's brick did.

See
http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=1049412
from just this past weekend.

Valves out of synch with crank + pistons can cause various symptoms, depending on exactly where the timing ends up. Remember that the spark timing is driven off crank pos. sensor and so is crank-determined, but the valves can do their own thing, as can the distributor, if I understand right.
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Sven: '89 245, IPD sways, electric rad. fan conversion, 28+ mpg - auto tranny. 850 mi/week commute. '89 245 #2 (wifemobile). '90 244 (spare, runs).

Ha! I was reading that thread the other day.. thinking that would never happen to me..

So this definately is the problem you think?

How hard is it to realign the timing belt(in my apartment parking lot no less)... (the belt has less than 25k on it)

Thanks!

Belt marks are ONLY used as 1-time intallation references.

They have no relevance after just 1 revolution.

Giving the year* of your car will eliminate guesses and wasted time.

EDIT: OK, I see it's an '89. Not visible while composing my reply. Had to post it, reread your post to find the Year, come back hear in EDIT mode, post the Year (above) so it's always available. And write this edit. Like I said, wasted time.

EDIT 2: Ignore my earlier RPM sensor comment (removed), as FI must be working OK is plugs are wet, and FI requires RPM sensor-based pulses from the Ignition CU, saying in effect "all is well here". But all might be crappy at the Power Stage amplifier that triggers the coil. The PS is on the fenderwall behind the left headlight. Do a search on it for more info, or look in the 700/900 FAQ.
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Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

You think its the Power Stage even if I am getting spark at the plugs?

Our car had spark at the plugs.
However I think that spark at plugs did look a bit weak.

I believe that if t-belt's timing is off, spark at plugs could be good or bad or in between depending on what's up.

I think you'll need to do as we did - test and verify all likely and possible causes till you find something definitely testing bad or visually bad.

lucid mentioned the crank position sensor; you should have a look at it just to see if the cable is deteriorated (that would do it), and check for OBD codes as he wrote.
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Sven: '89 245, IPD sways, electric rad. fan conversion, 28+ mpg - auto tranny. 850 mi/week commute. '89 245 #2 (wifemobile). '90 244 (spare, runs).

No codes... will look at CPS,etc later. Car has good spark when observed last night.

Whitt

...I edited that part out, after remembering that the plugs were wet, meaning FI system runs, meaning FI gets OK from Ignition CU, which is driven by the RPM sensor.

I assumed the plugs were wet due to no spark. The Power Stage is the most common cause of wet plugs but no spark, due to the fact that the Ignition signals it, but has no feed-back to tell if it works or not. A bad coil would give the same symptoms, but Power Stage is more common.