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I'm still in the process of converting my '82 diesel wagon to a gasoline engine setup only I didn't stop there. I want to put all of the goodies in it now so I can be done with this project instead of doing a little here and there. One of the things I've heard many different opinions is the subject of bushings. Specifically to ask the immortal question---"Where do I use polyurethane bushings and where do I use rubber ones?" thanks ( I fear I'm opening up a mammoth can of worms on this one ).
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I did my fronts - all of them - in rubber. Why all? Even if they don't look worn, rubber ages and looses its elastic qualities. [I know Art Bernstein and a few other will disagree and think it is excessive]. I wanted the best ride I could get and was willing to put the effort into pressing out the small A arm bushings. I used poly in the rear - every bushing- in my '88 245. In hindsight, I wish I had used poly in the front: Firmer feel. I live in a temperate climate. I have no idea how poly performs or changes as temps drop. Poly trailing arm bushing should outlast rubber, or so the lore goes. If you go rubber, avoid Scan Tech. In my fronts I used OEM Volvo for rear A arm [the large] bushings. I figured there was a reason Volvo designated a left and a right part where aftermarket didn't. No, I can't tell you the reason, I took it on faith. But doing bushings definitely was a major improvement and restored a great "seat of the pants" feel to my Volvo. That made it worth the effort. The other philosophy is a "make due" repair of necessary parts if you want just want to keep it running. Depends how fussy you are. But don't expect a Volvo to ride like a Lexus even with all new bushings.
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OK, I'll go against the grain somewhat. Definitely torque rods, they wear out and installing polys you can do yourself (sans press). I am not sure the verdict is in on longevity of poly TABs and the rest of the bushings are so durable that it is kind of a waste to overdo them. I have never seen a worn out front bushing, panhard bush, front rear TAB (the little one) on my cars. It is TABs and torqs that make the big difference when you renew, poly is for those who get easily carried away, I think. I'd be for it in TABs if they are durable but I am not impressed with the soft and squishy poly radius rods bushings on 7-series cars. New bushings are a real nice thing, poly bushings have a lot of placebo factor, like oied foaml air filters in my opinion.
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posted by
someone claiming to be jason240
on
Tue Feb 21 03:30 CST 2006 [ RELATED]
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Where should I go with poly and where should I go rubber?
Why not ask her, politely?
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LOL
--
Ten Sleep 1980 245DL 1995 850 Turbo
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I have poly everywhere on mine and am very happy with the result.
However, some of the rubber bushings virtually never wear out, so it may not be completely necessary. (i.e. control arm rear and trailing arm front)
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Definitely do both front control arm bushings in poly.
DEFINITELY do the torque rods in poly.
I will probably do the trailing arm bushings in poly when I swap my axle AGAIN, but I still have rubber there. My car is driven hard and they haven't been killed quickly like the front bushings, and the torque rods.
So if you want to save some money, the two trailing arm bushings in rubber will probably last a long time. The front bushings in poly are really nice, and will add some castor as well as making the handling more precise. And the torque rod bushings are just so pathetic in rubber that I could never think of a stock bushing there again.
--
forums.turbobricks.com Parting out '84 DL auto, many cheap parts available
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I did a 240 diesel to b230f conversion a few years back (PO's son overheated the D6, warping the head). You are right on the money replacing everything "while you're in there."
I did the entire driveline: b230f, AW-70, 3.73:1 rear-end, gas tank and pumps, plus most of the electricals. Dealer did the big trailing arm bushings while I had the new axle still out of the car--charged only a flat labor rate (for 1 hour IIRC)--big savings compared to doing them on the car.
I think I still have most of my notes from the conversion--let me know if you run into any problems.
Hope this helps,
Steve A-
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Make it simple..how about every spot you can get poly bushings for :-)They sure make handling nicer.and the rear trailing arm bushings are much easier to replace first time, second time will be a walk in the park.
If you're going to buy a bunch, might want to get them direct from the UK distributor at www.superflex.co.uk ( takes about a week-week and a half normally for shipping to US ) or from www.kgtrimning.com in Sweden if the UK folks are out of stock on anything. Last time I bought some it was a heck of a lot cheaper than anyplace around here.
Make sure to remind them it's an out of EU sale so they take the VAT off.
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-------Robert, '93 940t, '90 240 wagon, '84 240 diesel (she's sick) , '80 245 diesel, '86 740 GLE turbo diesel, '92 Ford F350 diesel dually
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How come you didn't ask, "Why are you switching from diesel to gas?"
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1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont.
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" How come you didn't ask, "Why are you switching from diesel to gas?""
I was too busy fighting back the tears :-(
Seeing yet another diesel go the way of the buffalo is just too much for me.
--
-------Robert, '93 940t, '90 240 wagon, '84 240 diesel (she's sick) , '80 245 diesel, '86 740 GLE turbo diesel, '92 Ford F350 diesel dually
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I'm switching from diesel to gas because the D24 engine smoked heavily and wasn't cost effective to repair (like most D24's) and I want a car that I can afford to maintain and is reliable.
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