posted by
someone claiming to be RLJ
on
Thu Feb 23 02:08 CST 2006 [ RELATED]
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For 3 days my 81 would not start on cold, freezing, days. When it warmed up it would start. The last time I was a block from home and it just quit. Like turning off a light switch. Now it won't start at all. It turns over good. The fuel pump is working and getting fuel to the engine side of the fuel filter. Not getting fuel out of the injectors. Also no spark. I have checked the Thermal line switch worked prefect. New Halls sensor, cap and rotor, tried diffrent coil, still won't start. Thanks before hand.
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have you made any changes, or worked on something recently? You don't provide a lot of background to the condition.
are the battery connections good and tight, with shiny clean metal to metal contact, nice and tight? If they are loose a K-Jet car will die, since fuel pressure is very important.
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Stef (81 245 B21A SU M46 3.91 330000km, 81 244 BW55 3.31 220000km)
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Hello,
Have you checked for voltage at the coil. The brown wire on the coil should have +/- 12 volts. If not try placing a temp jumper between the + side of the battery and the coil (brown wire). Also does your car have a white dist cap?
You said the fuel pump was sending fuel to the filter, but none to the injectors. How did you test this. The reason I ask is because you said you have no spark but fuel is flowing. If there is no tach signal from the ICU the fuel pump relay will not operate and you have no fuel flow from the pump. If you have fuel then you have a tach signal but no spark which looks like a trouble in the coil area (no/low voltage or missing tach signal at coil). Let us know.
Mario
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'I've always been crazy, but it's kept me from going insane' Waylon Jennings
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My diagram shows that both the Fuel Pump Relay (FPR) and the Tach get driven right off Coil terminal #1 (no Ignition Control Unit / ICU) involved.
Which means there can be no fuel operation if there is no spark. Something needs a closer look.
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Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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Bruce,
You are right as far as the diagram, but on my 82 the tach signal runs from the ICU direct to the coil under the alternator (death valley), but the fuel pump relay,tach and CIS (82) get their feed from a bridge on the ICU. The connector just past the ICU has one leg to the coil and one leg to other items. If the relay is getting a tach signal but the coil is not you will have fuel but no spark (?).I dont know if the 81 has the same wiring. It does seem strange to have fuel but no spark.
Mario
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'I've always been crazy, but it's kept me from going insane' Waylon Jennings
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Mario,
I may have jumped the gun when I assumed RLJ had the Bosch (not V/C) ignition—something which we don't yet know. Even so, my "no ICU involvement" was off the wall. The Bosch ICU coil pulse appears to go directly (no plug) from ICU #6 to Coil #1, with separate lead-offs from Coil #1 to the FI relay and tach. This is from a Clymer manual copy of Volvo's basic diagram.
Since I don't have the complete diagrams showing possible connectors for the early V/C Ignition like you do, I'll butt-out here before I muddy things up any more.
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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Bruce,
Jump in any time, your input and knowledge is always helpful. We need all the help we can get. Your right about the type of ignition system (white or red cap), it is important to this problem.
Mario
--
'I've always been crazy, but it's kept me from going insane' Waylon Jennings
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posted by
someone claiming to be RLJ
on
Fri Feb 24 06:16 CST 2006 [ RELATED]
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WOW! thanks for all the help. My 81 has the White cap.
I did add a can of Heet when it would not start when it was freezing out. But
it did not help. After it quite completely, I replaced the Halls sensor,cap
and rotor. I'm going to run a jumper to the coil to see if tghat helps. Agin THANKS
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posted by
someone claiming to be RLJ
on
Thu Feb 23 12:09 CST 2006 [ RELATED]
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I pulled one of the injectors and turned the motor over. No gas in a jar.
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Ok that means it could be the FPR, but it does not explain no spark. I wonder if you do not have two issues. Try testing the voltages at the coil to eliminate that issue. Also do you get any gas out of the return feed when you tested the injectors.
Mario
--
'I've always been crazy, but it's kept me from going insane' Waylon Jennings
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posted by
someone claiming to be RLJ
on
Fri Feb 24 06:59 CST 2006 [ RELATED]
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I jumped from the battery to the + side of the coil.
Turned it over and nothing. When I jumped I did here a hum on the drivers
side of the engine.
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OK, when you placed the jumper did you check for a spark?. If you have a strong spark, then take the jumper off and test again. If the spark is weak or not there, you may have a wiring issue. I have attached and old post that might be helpful:
"I have an 82 MPG with Chrysler ignition (white distributor cap) and it does not have a Ballest resistor. The voltage comes from fuse post 11 (hot side) to a 2 plug connector on the passenger firewall (blue wire) and then it goes to the coil term #15 (brown wire) via a 1 plug connector. I have had two occasions in the last ten years were that connectors has corroded out and blocked the 12volts to the coil. When I cleaned the connectors, the car ran great. This connector is located were the ballest used to be according to my Volvo green book. Find that connector and clean it up. It seems to be a problem unique to 81(?)and 82.If you have the above situation you can bypass the connector by connecting a wire from the battery + terminal to the #15 terminal of the coil (brown wire) and see if the car runs. Hope that helps."
If you have a spark now, they may be other issues. Let us know.
Mario
--
'I've always been crazy, but it's kept me from going insane' Waylon Jennings
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posted by
someone claiming to be RLJ
on
Fri Feb 24 09:14 CST 2006 [ RELATED]
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No spark when I jump from the battery to the + side of the coil.
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Lets summarize what is going on:
You have no spark even with 12 volts direct ot the coil
You have fuel flow to the filter but not to injectors
You had cold start problems before it stopped
You should not have fuel flow with no spark. But if the tach signal is making it to the fuel pump relay the relay will operate and start the pump. Which means the hall sensor is working and the ICU is sending out a signal. Whats left is the tach signal not making it to the coil only. The red/white wire on the coil goes under the block by the alternator and across to the ICU on the right fender. Check that you have continuity from the ICU to the coil. Also check to see if you have that connector where the ballast resistor should be and clean it.
As far as the fuel issue it makes no sense to go after that until the spark is there. If anybody else has some input please jump in. I am going to have another Bourbon straight up and relax after painting all day.
Mario
--
'I've always been crazy, but it's kept me from going insane' Waylon Jennings
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Have you checked the cold start injector? Also, there is a possibility that the fuel distributor may be gummed up. In my experience, the k-jet cars do not tolerate either alcohol in the fuel, or moisture in the fuel system well at all.
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posted by
someone claiming to be RLJ
on
Fri Feb 24 08:49 CST 2006 [ RELATED]
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To ck. the cold start injector I pulled it out of the intake and tuned the motor over. I am using the engine compartment plug in to turn the motor over with the key in the on position. No gas came out of the injector.
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posted by
someone claiming to be RLJ
on
Thu Feb 23 12:12 CST 2006 [ RELATED]
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When if wonld'nt start in freezing weather I thought it was water in the gas so I added a bottle of Heet. It did not help. So you may be on to my problem. How do you clean the fuel distributor.
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