Well, it's always something. Last week I posted where I had done my first timing belt replacement on my '86 240 sedan that took more than a few tries to get right...so I thought. The stalling and being under powered turned out not to be the TB but in fact 2 shorted wires on a plug going into the base of the distributor. These are very thin fragile wires that were shorting. But that was a cheap fix. When I took it into my independent shop and opened the hood, oil burning smoke was coming out of the engine bay. As it turned out, the rear main went and was leaking on the hot engine. What a stink. It will be ready Friday and I'll be about $500 poorer, but at least I'll know that it's secure and hopefully ready for another 335K miles. Another good thing is that I don't have any car payments so I mind putting money like this into a solid car every once in awhile.

Keep on brickin'

I had just replaced the breather box and flame trap 3 wks ago. I do the flame trap every 15K. When I took the car in, the first thing the mechanic did was reach behind the valve cover to see if it was wet with oil and it was not. I too check that for any oil every oil change. Thanks for your thoughts. I get the car back tomorrow....I'll keep everyone posted.

Thanks
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'86 sedan with 335K miles with original engine and automatic transmission

As it turned out, the rear main went and was leaking on the hot engine.

The "rear main" seal is at a low point, so it leaks down and out the bottom of the bell housing, not "on the hot engine". Smoke is not a typical rear main symptom, IMO.

I suspect that it's really the rear CAM seal that's leaking — and $500 is an outrageous charge to replace a $2.00 part, which can be pressed in from the rear without touching the cam cover or any other part. At least that's how I did the only one I've ever had to replace.

As Trev says, a DIY retaining strap/plate will ensure that it stays in place. The picture is Don Foster's from the BrickBoard Gallery, showing dimensions for the retainer.
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Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

"As it turned out, the rear main went and was leaking on the hot engine. "
If by rear main seal you mean the cam plug at the back, it might be an expensive fix.

There are instructions on board somewhere to attach a plate to block the seal from popping out again.
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1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont.

As Bruce mentioned, the breather really needs to be checked out.

You don't want to find out that you've blown the rear main a second time! Make sure the vacuum hose from flame trap housing to intake is clear- take it off and blow thru it. My 87 had a plugged one when I got it, just SOLID with crud all thru it.

The brass nipple in the intake plugs with carbon as well. Likewise the flame trap can be filthy and blocking some flow.
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Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: 87 244DL- 249K, 88 245DL- 181K, 84 242DL, 89 244DL parts, SOLD: 86 244, 88 244GL, 87 244, 91 244, 82 245T, 88 744GLE, 86 244

I feel your pain. My car just got out of the shop, having cost a similar amount for very different repairs. Both steering column u-joints plus 4 'fan' belts plus a new splash pan. Still beats regular car payments of nearly the same amount. Some work I do myself, some I have done by others.

Any time I read "oil leak" I immediately think "flame trap".

Not to say that your rear main seal doesn't need replacing. If it's leaking that badly, I'd guess it really does need a new seal. But you, or someone, should go through the whole flame trap/crankcase ventilation system to make sure it's clear, unless you already know it's clear. Any blockage there will have the car leaking oil again soon.

See the FAQ, section on "Engine belts, seals, and crankcase ventilation", and follow it to the plentiful information on the flame trap system.
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Sven: '89 245, IPD sways, electric rad. fan conversion, 28+ mpg - auto tranny. 850 mi/week commute. '89 245 #2 (wifemobile). '90 244 (spare, runs).