Hi All,

Continuing the saga of the seat repair (while the dash is being re-assembled; while waiting for some new floor foam), I completed it, fixed the lumbar support (new steel wire) and put together the bottom spring assembly.

Wow it's comfortable! But after sitting on it twice the two springs at the end of the bottom spring square (at the side of the seat pivot) popped off again.

To be honest, I do not understand how these are supposed to stay in place, the end of the steel rods are 'bent' outwards at about 45 degrees, is this supposed to keep the springs from sliding off? It doesn't with my 200 lbs.

Has anyone found any solid solution for "capping" the ends of the steel rods in the spring assembly?

Thanks, I hope I was descriptive.

Greg
Montreal, Canada

Go to a hobby shop that has radio control airplane supplies and ask for some wheel collars. Du-Bro makes some they call Dura-collars about 4 for $1 or so. They come in different sizes with an allen head set screw, 1/8" or 3/32 will probably work for you. I also took a file and filed a flat spot on the wire to give the set screw something to hold onto and collar not to slip. Dan

I just picked up the 3/32, thanks great idea! ...and I haven't been to that hobby shop since the days of the electric rc-10 racing... long ago. I should dig it out for my son now.

Greg
Montreal
Canada

It sounds like the thin wires that extend from the sides across the bottom of the seat have come off allowing the springs to slide forward and off the end of the thin steel rod they attach to.

I think there are two thin wires after the spring attachment point. Originally the thin steel rod is wrapped with brown paper with the thin wires wrapped around that on each side. Once the paper breaks down the thin wires can slide forward and off the end of the rod.

With everything in position (springs, rods, and wires) you can do a few additional wraps of wire around thin wire attachment point. A solid core copper wire with the insulation stripped off would work. Then for additional insurance you can apply some epoxy adhesive at the ends of the added wire. That will keep the thin wires in place and prevent them from sliding down and off of the rod.

Back cushions can be repaired or reinforced with heavy cotton fabric and a good adhesive. I rebuild the cushions by reinforcing both the inside where the seat rail has a tendency to tear the foam and the outside where the frame usually exits after tearing the foam.

3M makes a product called Foam Fast 74 that we use for gluing foam to foam at work. It is a contact cement spray product. I don't know that it is any better than the regular contact cement that 3M makes but it worked great at gluing the heavy cotton into the stress areas. I sprayed both surfaces liberally and that allow me to slide the pieces of material into place before the contact cement dried.

Randy

Hi Greg:

Most likely your seat bottom grids have failed. Volvo sells a new upgraded design that costs less than some of the aftermarket suppliers-- when I did mine 2 years ago I think they were about $14 each at Volvo of London. So far, so good, and I'm more than 200lbs (although my wife drives the 240 more than me, and she's way less than 200lbs!).

Wash those seat covers in your washer after being careful to remove all the metal rods and you will be surprised at how new they look. It is also a great time to fix up the seat heaters and go to the boneyard for passenger side foam to swap into your driver's seat.

This is a very worthwhile fix!

Good luck!
--
Herb Goltz, Aurora, Ontario, Canada '92 245 w/130K mi, '92 945T w/200K mi

Is there a place where one could find a step by step seat rebuild post? I'm always amazed at how much more 'plush' my passenger seat is compared to the driver's when I ride with my wife driving. I'd love to have that feeling on the driver's side - plus the lumbar is long gone. Thanks.

Tony's pictures and text can be found here:
http://home.no.net/ebrox/
...or by clicking on the link under my signature.

Erling.
--
My 240 Page

This is what I have done with the front 240 seats:

Use a new grid, from a dealer, around $20 - $25. All new cross wires, and the outer rod in a "U" shape across the rear end. The front ends are bent outward at 45 degrees.

Have some short napp carpet scraps around. You will need a big 12-inch square-ish piece for the seat bottom, and two long rectangular pieces for the sides.

Get the seat out, upside down. I crank the recliner way out, and put some something on the ground to protect the headrest top. REst is on the hood, or the bottom trunk sill, if a sedan. Remove the springs, grid, and hog rings along the sides. Use two pair of pliers on the hog rings, they are re-useable. Also remove the bar across the front, takes a 90 degree rotation around the long axis, and a flex to get it to clear the end holes.

The long rectangle carpet pieces you cut to wrap over the top of the frame edges. When the grid/springs fail, the frame cuts into the foam. Carpet will prevent that. Cut it so as to not be in the way of instlling the springs.

The square carpet piece goes on the bottom of the seat, between the grid and the foam, and wide enough to be under the ends of the springs.

Attach the springs, do the central pairs first, or whatever works for you. At the grid end where the rods are bent out, attach the springs inside the cross wires.

Then attach the front bar, the sides hog rings go last. Try to use the same holes on the hog rings, and watch out, they have very sharp ends. DAMHIK

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)

Check the archives. Tony Hoffman, some time ago, posted an excellent guide with pictures. Sorry, don't have the URL.

Maybe try a search using seat rebuild or similar...