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If the rear doors and trunk lock work, but not the passenger door, look at a couple of places:
under the glovebox is a 2-pin blue connector with yellow and blue wires. Make sure it's plugged in.
Inside the door, once the door panel is removed, there's an identical connector. This is the other end of the wiring harness through the hinge. Make sure it's plugged in too.
See if the lock motor's linkage is connected to the rod for the knob- they do come off but usually you would lose the knob connection as well since it's a single little clip holding it together.
The clip is shaped like a P and it snaps into place on the rods- very ingenious little thing. If it fell off, it's usually in the bottom of the door- feel around for it if you don't see it. If the linkage is apart it just needs to be snapped together. With the door panel off you can see whether the lock motor pulls up and down or not.
If you've got a voltmeter you can test the wires in the plug at the motor- should make +12 V when locks are actuated one way, and -12V when actuated the other. This is reading from blue to yellow- don't worry about reading from either wire to ground, because +12 and ground are both switched thru the lock relays for the lock motors. Check it again at the plug under the glovebox if there's no 12V at the motor. If the wiring doesn't check out, i.e. no 12V at the motor, get that piece of harness from a junkyard car. Bet it costs $1. If there IS 12V but the motor doesn't operate, get a lock motor from a junk car. Maybe $5? It needs to be the RF motor or you need to swap the lock rod if you take a rear one out.
Now, if NONE of the locks work, that's a whole different story and we need to look at power to the lock relays and the harness and 2 switches in the driver's door....
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Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: 87 244DL, 88 245DL, 90 745GL, 84 242DL project, 89 244 parts, 88 244DL to replace the 87
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