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freeing a stuck heater control valve? 120-130


I know, I know, one of those perenial old volvo 122 issues... I'm on my second 122 now and I was lucky that my first one's heater control valve (on the firewall) was not stuck. This new one I'm workin' on though has the look of a lot of crust around the valve.

So... I'm wondering if any of you have every had any luck freeing these up by liberally soaking them with PB-Blaster or other penetrant ilk? I'm thinking of spraying it good, then wrapping a plastic baggie around it to hold some of the penetrant in from evaporating quickly. Bad idea? Good idea?








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    freeing a stuck heater control valve? 120-130

    Can't hurt to try it.
    NAPA sells a repair kit for those valves.
    I don't remember the part number right now but can get it over the weekend if no one else chimes in.
    --
    '60 544 x89k, '68 220S 94k, '70 145S 130k, '72 144E 245k, '86 745T 145k








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      Repair kit number 120-130

      NAPA Balkamp number 660-1000, should cost under $15, includes instructions.








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        t hanks for # 120-130


        Thanks for the NAPA-# Phil. Did you actually have success using the kit? Goerge D. sounds doubtful.









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          t hanks for # 120-130

          I haven't used the kit myself, but I've seen others have perfect results with it. It's probably going to depend on how far corrosion has gone, and how well you can clean it up. For the price compared to a replacement valve, I'd say it's well worth a try.

          These valves are internally completely generic, and were used on all sorts of European and American cars at least into the 1980s. The only things that vary are the orientation of the hose fittings and cable hook-up.








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            ok 120-130


            OK Phil,

            I'll keep it in mind. I'm going to try freeing it up with the penetrant first, then see what happens.








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              ok 120-130

              I bought this kit for my 122 and it worked a charm. The instructions were good enough to get the job done, but not great. There was a list of cars that this kit would work for on the back of the instructions and I was truly amazed at all the models it would work with. I'm going to head to the local U-Pull-It yard sometime soon and find one of these other cars to pull a valve out of.
              --
              '65 122S








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                going to need to try it 120-130


                Thanks for the confirmation that it worked for you.

                As it turned out, I trid forcing the action of the stuck lever a bit after liberally applying the PBlaster and waiting over night. Sure enough, it now starts leaking in one position, but is fine when "off". I'm going to have to try that kit now I think because finding intact and working used valves can be quite difficult.








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                  going to need to try it 120-130

                  This is exactly the scenario that caused me to get my kits. I haven't had a leak in either the on or off position since installing the new valve.


                  -
                  --
                  '65 122S








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      freeing a stuck heater control valve? 120-130

      I chased the number down on the NAPA website for a new valve and they said
      it was NLA. I really don't think they are as repairable as NAPA would have
      you think, btw.
      --
      George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!








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        freeing a stuck heater control valve? 120-130

        George,
        I also couldn't find it on the website.
        Local store had it in two days, couldn't explain why.
        As to whether it is repairable, I don't know yet, haven't got to it.
        True, it may not be due to corrosion, but I wanted to try it first before going with a whole new valve.
        --
        '60 544 x89k, '68 220S 94k, '70 145S 130k, '72 144E 245k, '86 745T 145k








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    freeing a stuck heater control valve? 120-130

    I got one working in the manner you describe. But then later that year it started leaking inside the car. I had no other valve so I had to bypass it while I ordered a new one. IPD sells them for a 240 with instructions on how to modify for a 122.
    I would advise getting a new one so you won't run the risk of dealing with simalar grief later.
    Besides, it would seem that those old valves get rusted on the inside as well as the outside.







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