Alright guys, I've found a lot of chatter about what to do with a 0410 code, but I can't find a straightforward explanation about how to troubleshoot the problem. I got this code a couple weeks ago. The engine runs rough when cold, and I cannot feel any air being pulled into that curved aux airpump hose when i star the car.

Can anyone give me a ABC checklist of what components to check? And please tell me how to check them, because I've never dealt with an aux airpump system before.

I already replaced the rotted rubber vacuum hose right next to the check valve.

I mentioned in that post that the car runs rough when cold. I know "rough" is a very open-ended term. Long story short: when I start the car cold, it runs like I just started it freezing weather conditions (only problem is that I live in Florida where temps are in the mid-70s by sunrise). It's not iddling badly or hesitating, but it just seems a bit sluggish. The symptom is gone by the time I've pulled out of the neighborhood. I really started to notice it a couple weeks before this air pump gave its last breath. I was figuring that if the pump is somehow supposed to be affecting the exhaust mix at cold start, then the O2 sensors could be getting a reading that's abnormal for cold starts. Hence the fuel/air mix gets thrown off jsut a wee bit, causing the odd running characteristic.

But that's just my theory... I'll let you know if it improves when I put the new (old) pump in.

I guess you're not aware that the O2 sensor and catalytic converter cannot even operate until they're up to high operating temperature. If you see reference to "open loop" or "closed loop" operation, it means hot enough to use the oxygen sensor for engine control, or not hot enough for that. Cold running has to rely on pre-programmed (or learned) characteristics of the engine.

There's an airpump on ebay.
Check out this link: http://motors.search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZscottlandyardspares

Good Luck!

95' 964 165k

thanks for that link. I ended up buying that very part for only $5 (and $27 shipping!). I look forward to making the CEl turn off again.

The pulsed air injection system will not affect engine performance cold or hot in any way. Its sole purpose is to release air (oxygen)into the exhaust during the first 90 seconds or so after a cold start so the cat will start it's chemical reaction sooner and save the environment. It does absolutely nothing to warm up engine or allow it to run better when cold.
Rough running when cold could be plugs. but I would expect missfire codes. Any other codes? What do you mean by rough?


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David Hunter

I started out by disconnecting the wire harness that powers the air pump. I then ran 12 volts directly from my battery to the pump side of the power connector. For anyone playing along, the blue wire is supposedly the positive wire on the V70s. Coincidence that there's a blue wire running into our air pumps? I think not. Even with juice running directly from the battery, the air pump did not budge. That's my culprit. Now I can do one of two things:

1. I'm going to look into what it costs to either have a local pump repair shop repair it.

B. Does anyone know if the V90 airpump isthe same as the one used in the V70 of its day? I read somewhere that the V70 airpump motor is nearly identical (same MFG, same power connections, you just have to do some minor undetermined mod to get it fitted) to the one used in VR6-equiped Volkswagens. The big difference is that the VW part costs $90 where the volvo stickered one costs about $300.

So you hot wired the sucker and she still didn't want to play eh-I replaced mine with a used pump for about 50 bucks few years back-you probally will be able to make a VW pump work-but these pumps on the 960's were used on a lot of different model Volvo's.
As for repairing one of these pumps-if it can be done please post back with
your findings.
Poolman

I ordered a used one from ebay. If it works out, I'll take the old one apart and see what went wrong.

I'm also going to build some homemade rubber mounts to replace the old ones. After gettig a closer look at it, half the mounts on the pump and bracket were rotted out. The pump was rattling around and trying to shake itself loose (presumably to make its escape). There were no traces of any water collecting inside it, so i guess the vibration may have led to its demise.

From your test it sounds as if the pump simply seized up. The mounts often fail but are cheap and easy to replace. The pump however does not affect engine performance in any way.
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David Hunter

Thanks for the advice, David. I have another pump on order. When that one arrives, I will make some homemade mounts. You can read more about that at my thread titled "Those stupid little bushings on the air pump." Call me a cheapwad, but I can't justify spending $13 or even $5 apiece on some little pieces of rubber and bolt that were practically designed to fall apart. there's got to be a better way.

And yes, i will be darn sure to drill a drain hole int he bottom of the pump before I put it in.

From your test it sounds as if the pump simply seized up. The mounts often fail but are cheap and easy to replace. The pump however does not affect engine performance in any way.
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David Hunter