I'm not in love with volvo(s). I don't even like volvo that much. If i had a lot of money (i define "a lot" as at least $100,000 LIQUID, not net worth, but liquid), i wouldn't buy a new volvo---especially after the ford takeover but that's another topic. I'm a "GM man." Why am i even screwing with a 1985 740 with the non-turbo B230 engine (which i admit is a good engine)?

Because my parents basically gave it to me. As in for free.


Now, you have to admit, no matter how die-hard a volvo fan you are, that the electrical system on volvos, at least of this vintage, sucks.

I have spent around $900 in the past six months and it still stalls out occasionally----usually with about 20 impatient, quickly becoming angry, motorists behind me.

So, my plan is to "install" my own carburetor--a holley 4160 390 cfm model mounted atop my own "custom" mount which will bolt up to where the throttle body would be (the circular thing with the throttle cable and kickdown cable is located just above this throttle body).
I will then use a solid state electic fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator. Or i may use a mechanical pump driven by belt (gilmer).

If this does not work. And i'm prepared for this eventuallity, i will commence on performing a small block chevy swap. I would hope to avoid this route, not because of the difficulty (it's not actually that difficult) but because i don't have much time right now.


Your thoughts?

Is there such a thing as a vehicle with an electric system that DOESN'T suck?

This sounds to me like a project you should do for the sheer entertainment value and without financial considerations. If you are looking for an economic daily driver, I think you would be much happier with a used Cavalier / Sunfire etc.

You say that the only reason you got the Volvo is because it was a gift from your parents. If you dislike the car why don't you just sell it and buy a car you do like. There is no doubt in my mind that converting the car to carburettor and doing all of the other mods you mentioned will be very expensive. It would be cheaper to buy a car that already has a carburettor installed.

Will.

That probably would be the intelligent thing to do but i feel i can do this rather inexpensively. I define inexpensively as cheaper than a new car OR as cheap or a little more expensive than buying another used car, possibly.

2) i just want to do it for the (bad?)experience too because i think it would be interesting.

Do a search on JTR Volvo Conversion for kit-like approach with Chevy. If nothing else, the book is a great read.

Fact is, thousands of us with 80's volvos have learned fuel injection well enough to be comfortable with it working in our back yards. If you're young, you will want to learn the latest technology you can swallow. GM isn't looking to hire carburetion gurus; that's for us antiques.

1) Yes, i have looked at the JTR site and the kit looks very promising and straight-foward. The only possible difficult parts would be getting a new driveshaft made up and possible problems with fitting in a new radiator because i doubt the stock radiator will be able to handle the extra load. The kit runs for $250 which i feel is a good deal because all the measuring and fabrication has been done for you.

2) in that case, can you recommend a REALLY good shop? I define REALLY good as a shop that specializes in this particular vintage (80's) volvos.

I wouldn't do it. The chances of getting the jetting, etc. right are very low.

If you must lump the poor beast go ahead, it will be more likely to work than your carb swap. Such conversions always take more time and cost more money than expected and often don't work out, especially if you are not experienced at doing them.


Volvo fuel injection systems are generally reliable and work well. I have no idea why you are having so much trouble.

John

I know you're frustrated about stalling -- maybe most of the problem is with the mechanic you've been using, and it's only a small, easily corrected fix?

Anyway, here's a thought ... just sell the car. That way, you'll get some money for it (be honest, though, and tell the buyer about the problem). Because depending on what state are you in, if there is emissions testing required where you are, selling it now will save yourself from throwing money away because the state won't let you operate it after you do what you plan to do, nor anyone else you might try to sell it to.

That's probably the most intelligent thing to do.

However:
a) I don't have emmisions testing where i'm at. I'm not saying i will be legal, i'm just saying i don't have emmisions testing or checking where i'm at. (and i live near a MAJOR metropolitan are too!)

b) I want to this because 1) i feel it would be interesting. 2) and cheap....er than buying a new car. It might even be cheaper than buying another used one.

My thoughts???

Here's my first thought: Are you for real???

I wish you the best of luck with your project.

What if the problem is in the ignition side of the house, like a bad Hall effect sensor in the distributor? All the carburators in the world won't solve your problem.
--
Chris - 1990 740, 1973 1800ES (Non-running), 1993 Dodge Dakota (Still has a little paint left on it)

The only sensible way to convert it to carb is to get a complete setup (manifold, carb, etc.) form a Canadian or Euro car. The end result may run OK but will not be emissions legal anywhere in the USA though.

There are kits to put a Ford 5.0 in it. Apparently this fits a lot better than a Chevy. If you really want to go with GM, the Buick/Range Rover aluminum V8 is the best choice.

You mentioned stalling. Does it stall out at random, then restart after a few seconds and run normally, until the next time, which can be anywhere from a few minutes to a few weeks later?
Mine did this. It was the radio interference suppressor relay. Don't screw around with resoldering. Just buy a new one. They are less than $50.

1)That's most probably more sensible than trying to make my own manifold. Where can i find one?

2)Can you guide me as far as where the R.I.S. relay is, and how to change one?

The suppressor relay is clipped to the mount for the coolant bottle. On the right strut tower, above and behind the battery. It's a small black rectangular box. Unclip it, unplug the wiring connector, reverse the process to install the new one---takes all of 30 seconds.

One potential problem is that the wires can slip within the connector block and not make proper contact with the pins on the new relay. Examine carefully to make sure this doesn't happen.