Sorry to all that i haven't been posting correctly, just got the login id from my dad, so i will just respond to this thread on the subject in the future. Sorry about not responding to the mismatched caliper issue, i checked and they seemed fine.
The whole story begins with me replacing the front calipers and rotors because of old age and wear. The installation went fine and i continued to bleed ONLY the front calipers thinking this was sufficient. Apparently it was not because when i went to start the car i got the brake failure light and there was no resistance on the pedal. I then jacked the car back up again and bled the brakes in the correct sequence. One of the issues that i mentioned in a previous post was that i was not able to get any fluid to come out of the right rear caliper, it started fine, then after a few seconds just dried up. Well that was friday and today, monday, i went back to try and solve the problem, before i did anything different i just tried to bleed that same caliper and low and behold it flowed fine. Well i continued the bleed sequence from there assuming i just had some good luck:), which was not the case because upon completion and test, brake failure.
I even tried re-bleeding the system from start to finish and got the same result.

Thoughts...
I am using a power bleeder and i know that during the whole time the level in the master cylinder remained high enough. My dad mentioned that he thought it might be the master cylinder because when i went to test the brakes the "first time" i pressed all the way down which caused some sort of damage to the mc. Something about it not ever going that far down during normal use.

SO, thankyou for reading this and i will continue to provide all the information and hopefully post correctly.
thanks
Caylen

you might take off the master cylinder, take it apart, and inspect the seals - if you're not getting any pedal at all, you should see damage on one or more of the seals.
if the seals look ok, bench bleed the master cylinder before reinstalling. that might be the trouble in the first place.

Glad to see you with a log in Caylen. Now we can click in "Every Post" if we need some history (but it's still best to keep to one thread for a given problem). It's good for you too because you can come back and "EDIT" in a change to a post if you need to (within about 2 hours).

I don't know where to start, still wondering about what your using for a manual, and making assumptions about your bleed sequence for starters. For all I/we know, "correct sequence" could be your uncle's favorite way on the old Dodge.

It's not too unusual to get that warning light when bleeding. Because any method puts pressure on one circuit while the other one loses it (bleeding). So the warning valve piston transfers to one side (see pic). But when both sides are bled air-free, a few hard pushes on the pedal should center the WV piston again.

That might have worked for you at first, but now it seems you have a worse problem. I'm not sure that just 1 trip all the way down will ruin the MC seals, but unfortunately it does add another possibility.

I can't explain how the rear started bleeding OK, unless the pressure closed a bad spot in the hose lining (making it like a 1-way valve), then it relaxed overnight.

Sorry this isn't more help, but give us a little more detail on your manuals and methods, and maybe something will shake loose on this end.Right now I'm puzzled too.
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

hi there.
what sequence did you use to bleed the brakes? or should i say what manual did you use?
a while back i actually put the right caliper on the left side and left on right side. bolted up fine but wouldnt bleed.
good luck
mike

Your dad makes a good point. It has been discussed here quite often. The reason power bleeding is suggested is that using a helper and pumping the brake pedal to pressize the system allows the master cylinder piston to travel to an area of the bore that is not normally used. It can have buildup, rust, corrosion, etc. and when the seals hit that area the abrasion has a bad effect on the seals.

If you have bled out the system in the correct sequence and are not getting any more air there is a good chance that the master cylinder is in fact defective.

Randy

thank you for responding..
i did use the proper bleeding sequence that i beleive is in the haynes manual, and did get everything the finally bleed correctly. I suppose what must've happened is that when i went to test the brakes the first time, before bleeding the whole system correctly, that there was air in the rear lines causing the the pedal to be pressed too far down thus causing damage to the mc. Something the be aware of in the future i suppose. I was using a power bleeder, so it must've been that first time i went to test the brakes...
well im going to get a new mc tommorow and see if that does it!
thanks for all the help

ps
just broke front brake line on a different car trying to unscrew it, was a old 7/16 size, rusted, and i guess two twists was two too many.. i even used pb blaster and everything, should've known that it was a little two hard to unscrew..
ahh, the joys of learning, again and again and again....

-Caylen