Has anyone found a source for a rebuild kit for the brake junction block? Mine has a leak at the switch and I think it must be O-rings on the shaft have gone flat, 290 K on the car. I have looked at FCP and IPD only to find a complete assembly offered.

Thanks for any help.
Mike Craig
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1984-244 GL with 201K, 1984-244 GL with 270K (parts), 1985-244 DL with 238K, 1985 DL with 280K, 67 Mustang with 250K and 62 F- 250 4x4 with 71K

Thanks for the info.

I do agree this is not an expensive part, however if the O-rings are available the repair cost will be around $2.00. I think it can be rebuilt with out removing the brake lines, just remove the mounting bolt for clearance. I also looked at a local supplier and the block they had in stock was machined poorly.

I am going to take the block apart and try to match the Viton O-rings. As long as the bore and shaft are not pitted there is no reason to replace the entire block. If this works I will post the results with the O-ring part numbers.

Happy Bricking.
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1984-244 GL with 201K, 1984-244 GL with 270K (parts), 1985-244 DL with 238K, 1985 DL with 280K, 67 Mustang with 250K and 62 F- 250 4x4 with 71K

Word of warning on the non-Volvo part: FCP has stopped carrying it because of leaks and problems! The OEM part is worth the money, in my opinion. And I'm a big advocate of rebuilding what can be rebuilt; HOWEVER for this part, I think the installation is not too terrible (yes, 8 brake lines isn't great but taking your time it's doable) and the consequences of failure are bad.

I've replaced a couple of these and had good results. I do know that we stock many different kinds of o-rings at work; there are different materials and some are compatible with different fluids and some are not. Dealing with oil, gasoline, hydraulic fluid, brake fluid, all require specialized materials. I don't know what brake system seals are supposed to be. I think it's a silicone rubber.

Good luck with it!
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Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: 92 244-M47-207K ::: 90 745GL-M47-268K ::: 88 245DL-AW70-230K ::: 88 244 SOLD! 87 244 SOLD! Still looking for a bright red or black 244 with sunroof...

Material compatibility is a good point. Viton and EPDM make sense for glycol based brake fluids, NOT SILICONE.

Why mess and guess with brakes? The correct O-ring is 1330797-0, probably just a day or two away from your local dealership parts counter.

Laharview, there's no way you'll find things clean and pretty in there. The O-ring isn't the problem, its the rust and glop, but just the same if you remove the crud and pits you'll want to have new O-rings.

...thanks to "sorenson-jr".

I'll add that part # info to my "canned response" on the subject below.

I just found the o-rings listed for $1.36 each at this dealer parts look-up site.

Click on "Search" in the top row of links to get a Part Number search window.
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Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

I doubt very much this can be done well on-car and once someone goes to the trouble of getting it loose it might be a question of money at hand. I'm grateful for the link you provided.

Yes, doing it "on-car" isn't likely but maybe worth a try, since that's the way the 700/900 green book seems to pitch it.

I tried it on '80 a few months ago but one end plug was so far gone nothing would fit it. And that single mount bolt doesn't look like it would take much strain either. I would have packed something solid behind, if I'd been able to get a wrench on the end plugs.

EDIT: As for that "price-check" link, their full list prices are accurate I think, because they compare to the penny with Beechmont in Cincinnati, where I've been getting a 20% discount for years as a VCOA member.
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Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

Its cool to have that part number. When I've taken them apart (twice now), they have always looked uncorroded and fine minus the o-rings. Once you get the endcaps off, its really not that tough. Just a few little parts to not lose. I did them off the car though which made it easier. O-rings are what go on these, not usually corrosion in my experience with two 20-ish year old ones.

Nate

Depends on what's really leaking, of course.

I needed a new switch (it was inadvertently grounding and giving me a false warning signal) -- the kit for it is indicated in the subject line.

However, the switch area within the block was dry (as it should be, as this switch area is not supposed to be filled with brake fluid), reassuring me that the seals for the pistons weren't defective yet.

You said you have a leak through the switch (fluid must be leaking past both the piston's seals but also through the switch's seals), which means you not only need the switch's new seals, but also the seals for the piston itself -- that probably means that you do, in fact, need a complete rebuild -- if it even can be done outside a shop -- or a new complete unit. Hey, after 290,000 miles, you shouldn't complain that you didn't get your money's worth :-).

I have rebuilt these twice now....kinda. FCP says they cannot find a supplier for the rebuild kit. I've bought two full junction blocks from them. Both blocks have been faulty: on each, one of the tapped holes was drilled out too big before being tapped thus not allowing the brakeline to tighten into it. Both times it was a big headache and I ended up taking the guts out of the new one and putting them into the old one. FCP gave me most or all of my money back on both. On both cars, they've been working fine ever since. If you find a supplier for the rebuild kits, let everyone know...it'll save a lot of bother.

Nate Gundy

Try looking for the equivalent pre-ABS 700/900 part. The 700/900 Brake Green book describes the rebuild (on the car—removing end caps), with pictures, etc. and shows the 0-ring as 8.5mm OD, 5.5mm ID. So the o-rings must be available — thru a dealer at least.

It's called "Pressure Differential Warning Valve" in the green book, and I suspect the o-ring size is the same as 200 series.

Years ago I "rebuilt" a junk yard junction block with whatever o-rings I had laying around, and put it in the V8 (see pic), where it was still holding OK when sold a few years later.

Also, if/when you open any brake line on your 240, you can prevent Master Cylinder Brake Fluid Loss by blocking the brake pedal depressed before you start. It only takes an inch or two on the 240s.

>>Disconnect the battery to keep brake lights off while the pedal prop is in place.<<

I've been using this on '80s 240s for more than 10 years now — since I learned it from an independent Volvo specialist. I made a wooden prop that hooks to the bottom edge of the pedal and bears against the 240 seat adjuster bar. It's handy for checking brake lights too.

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Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.