posted by
someone claiming to be caidek
on
Wed Aug 2 10:21 CST 2006 [ RELATED]
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I got a 89 740 turbo with lh 2.2. It died going down a city street at 30mph. It was hard starting ever since I got it 3-4 months ago. Sometimes you would have to put the pedal down to get it to catch and fire.
After that 30mph city trip it came home on a flatbed and wouldn't start. The tach doesn't move at all.
It has new NGK spark plugs, gapped at .028 standard ngk, non iridium.
New FPR vacuum line, a few new vacuum lines here and there.
New water pump.
hitch, trailer light wiring done with relays.
Battery died and I bought a new one for it, I ended up swapping a 3-4yr old battery from my 940T, but it has good charge. Charged it up after trying to start it aswell.
Fast forward to after it dies:
New power stage
new ignition coil
records say wires are about 40-50k miles old. Looked good
New hall sensor (because the tach was not reading).
Hall sensor was drilled out carefully then jb weld'd in place carefully using 2 people and a vice...
Put in a working Fuel pump relay from my 940T.
Swapped the black relay by resistor pack and power stage, its good.
Fuel pump doesn't turn on when turning the key to II anymore. Theres' no spark at the coil. The gas guage go's up, it's got half a tank in it.
I'm not sure what it is at this point other than maybe the ecu is just dead.
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i had exactly the same problem as u few weeks ago. i'm drivin 740gle auto.
same symptoms ;can't start,tach meter not movin,fuel pump not functionin,no spark from the plugs.
then 1 mechanic told me to replace an electronic stuff which's related to that problem.
it's called the ignition module. the size is quite small. made by bosch.
right after i replace that thing,straight away the engine can be started.
btw,that thing is attached to the left front fender of the car in the engine compartment,beside the air filter box.there's a socket connect to it.
the car works well after that.
so i hope this could help u a lot.just sharing my experience wit u.
good luck.
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posted by
someone claiming to be fixit 2003
on
Wed Aug 16 02:19 CST 2006 [ RELATED]
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If you turn on the ignition you should have 12 volts on one of each of the injector plug pins. The other pin will be zero. After cranking are the plugs wet with gas or dry?
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Not much help here, but this response will bump you up in the "recently modified list".
Your comment about, "Fuel pump doesn't turn on when turning the key to II anymore." caught my eye because the non-turbo LH2.2 doesn't do that. Only the LH2.4 and Regina "buzz" the pumps at KP II, in my experience.
With all you've done, I wouldn't overlook the timing belt. A non-turning camshaft would explain all your symptoms, starting with "no spark". The LH FI system absolutely will not run until it sees timing pulses from the Ignition controller.
So that "no spark" is where you need to concentrate.
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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posted by
someone claiming to be caidek
on
Thu Aug 3 07:27 CST 2006 [ RELATED]
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We pulled the upper timing cover and the belt looks good.
Before it died the only thing that was noticably wrong was one of the front seals, probably cam seal was leaking some oil. I have new volvo seals but haven't done anything with them yet.
The ground that is on the last headbolt looks kind of worn. Could that cause a no spark?
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"We pulled the upper timing cover and the belt looks good."
Sorry but "looks good" doesn't tell me much. If you just pulled the cover back enough to see the belt, that doesn't mean it's OK. They can strip off rubber-soaked teeth down at the crank sprocket and still look good up top.
Watch the camshaft thru the oil fill hole to make sure it turns while someone cranks it over. If OK, then the Ignition needs to be checked out. But I don't know what EZK version is used with the LH2.2 FI.
Have you looked for "no-start" or "no spark" help in the 700/900 FAQ?
See --select link-- at top right.
I believe the ground strap off the valve cover is mainly for radio noise suppression.
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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posted by
someone claiming to be caidek
on
Tue Aug 15 10:08 CST 2006 [ RELATED]
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We jumpered the fuel pumps by using the relay. Both pumps work. They don't turn on when the key is at II anymore though. They used to, I remember the buzz from it.
The relay is good, as are the contacts and all fuses.
Anyone know why there would be no spark, and no fuel pump operation. I swapped the 541 ecu with a junkyark 541 and still nothing.
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posted by
someone claiming to be caidek
on
Tue Aug 15 11:23 CST 2006 [ RELATED]
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It has a new powerstage. I swapped the radio suppression relay from my 92 940t and the 940t fired right up.
I pulled the connector off the powerstage and I couldn't see pin numbers so I checked resistance on all of them.
the side with 2 blank pin slots, Looking down at the powerstage as its mounted it is on the right side, I checked REAL pin #2, counted right to left, first 2 are not used.
continuity on that, the pin 2nd from the left side of connector I got 23.5ohms. with key at kpII
One thing I'd like to note, the shifter assembly is loose a little bit. Could it be that nuetral/park shift lock? It freely moves through the gears with the stick, but if internally its stuck in drive and won't restart because of that it would be a problem...
The car died going 30mph down the road and hasn't started since.
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Anyone know why there would be no spark, and no fuel pump operation. I swapped the 541 ecu with a junkyark 541 and still nothing.
• As I said in earlier response, with no spark, there will be no FI operation. The one exception is a bad power stage, where spark can fail but EZK doesn't realize it, and lets the LH operate.
I pulled the connector off the powerstage and I couldn't see pin numbers so I checked resistance on all of them.
• I don't have one to look at, but the similar AMM plug has the numbers under the rubber boot.
The Bentley 240 book says to unplug the PS and measure between pin #5 (gray shielded wire) and ground for voltage fluctuating between 0.0V and 2.0V as engine is cranked. I assume no fluctuation means no signal from the EZK ICU.
I've read that a grounded PS can overheat the coil. Test coil resistances: Primary, 0.6—1.0 ohm, Secondary, 6.5—9.0Kohms.
Also, I believe you can do a quick check of the coil by watching for a spark from the coil wire while touching and removing a temporary ground jumper at Coil 1 (be sure to take the normal wiring off first).
This is with Key On and +12V at Coil 15.
The spark should come when you remove the ground from Coil 1.
If no +12V at Coil 15 with Key On, then that's a problem in itself.
I don't have any 700/900 shifter experience, but I don't think the '89 has a shift lock, or anything that would directly affect the engine, other than some form of Neutral/Park Safety switch controlling starter operation.
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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posted by
someone claiming to be caidek
on
Fri Aug 25 14:09 CST 2006 [ RELATED]
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My brother used a ocsope to look at the ICU. There looks to be no pulse from the hall sensor. When taking apart the distributor to put in a new hall sensor (probably not neccesary) a couple of fibre washers disinigrated into pieces. I hear they aren't replaceable. It was also jbweld'd into place instead of steel rivets. So the hall isn't picking up the magnetic pulse as there is nothing to cary it, but the hall has power and ground.
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Look for a junkyard distributor. You can usually tell once pulled if its any good.
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Post Back. That's whats makes this forum work.
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