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OK I took my 240 for warenty break service at a place called City Tire. The mecanic looks at me and says "well I put some break quiet on it that should do you" I'm sorry I think I know my car it was squealing like a stuck pig it needs something be it rotors or pads or what. Well by this point I was starting to see red this would be set #3 in 2 months and I don't live in the mountains. I am not very rough on my car, I do like to play a little, but 3 sets of pads in 2 months??HMMM! Well I got back in the car and headed home I was almost in an accident due to what ever that crap they put on my breaks was. I was making a normal stop and the breaks were almost no functional. They were only squeaking wehn I took it in no stopping problem. I will be up there the next chance I get after I get the mess off my breaks. I have a few choice words for those people. So to all of my fellow brickboarders be ware if you are ever in Henderson NC DO NOT take your car to City Tire.
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I have said this so many times it makes me crazy:
Do not take you Volvo to anyone who does not really know Volvos. Either a good dealer or an independent specialist.
240s are very sensitive to pad composition in my experience. On some 240s the only way I have been able to get the rear brakes to quiet down is to use original equipment pads. Using the correct shims, etc. is also important.
Most generic shops throw on cheap pads, toss the original shims and load the calipers up with orange goo. The end result is noisy brakes.
You need a real Volvo tech working on your car, not the ding-dong at We Be Tires and Brakes!
John
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I have been stuck by warranty service, too, so I know how you feel. It is one reason I started Do It Yourself repairs. Another reason is that I know what has and has not been done on the job. Under time constraints, discount brake shops may not clean the reusable parts as well as I would. This could account for something sticking and squealing. However, I would not want to be doing this every month as the current rate shows.
Brake pads should last longer than one month. Could it be something else like a sticking caliper? If the caliper sticks with the pad touching the rotor, it will cause the pad to wear out quickly. It can also cause the break fluid to heat so hot it boils, when this happens the pedal needs to be pumped to get the breaks to work. This is a very scary and dangerous situation.
Have someone who knows look at the breaks with you to show you what is wrong. Fix it yourself with their guidance, or take it to a reliable shop. Tell them how often you have replaced the pads and ask them if that is normal. You may have to pay for some new calipers and a brake system flush, but I doubt that this would have been covered under the warranty you have with the other shop.
Reb
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hi there.
one must put this sil glide stuff between the shims and the rear of the pads to stop the squealing.
maybe try to do the pads yourself? its very easy.
good luck
mike
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I would but I don't quite trust myself. Breaks are not something to fool with if you don't know exactly what to do. they are the main safty divcie on your car.
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you do not encounter any problems.
Then it's nice to have a brickboard handy, along with your trusty Bentley Manual.
If you replace pads regularly there should never be a problem. Go for it. Even with PBR front pads at $50 +/- a set you still save enough for a modest bottle of wine.
I have used the el Cheapo rear pads from AutoZone for years. They come (or used to) with a lifetime guarantee. Bought a set for 240 #1, saved receipt. Then when I needed pads for 240 #2, I took in the receipt, got a free set. When 240 #1 needed pads, did the same thing. Et Cetera, et cetera, et cetera. Haven't bought a set in many years!
By the way, there is a way to do the pads and not need to bleed the system afterwards.
Good Luck,
Bob
:>)
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HOW with no bleed? That is part of my problem the y never bleed them I ALWAYS have to cuss them out to get that done!
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Forgive me Bob,
But saying, "...there is a way to do the pads and not need to bleed the system afterwards." seems to imply that there is also a way that does make it necessary "to bleed the system afterwards".
I'm reminded of warning the toddler not to shove beans up his nose here, but what is that pad changing method that requires system bleeding afterward?
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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That is all I have ever heard of! I kinda know how to do it. I heard something about when you mash the cylnder back into the caliper it some how makes air get int ther?? I don't know but that is what I hear.
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When you pry the old pads to make the pistons to go back into their cylinders the only air involved is that displaced in the master cylinder by fluid being backed into the system.
--
Harold Thompson '86 240 DL
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The first difference between 240 calipers and most others is that the caliper functions as a solid unit, with pistons squeezing on both sides of the rotor. Not a sliding outer caliper body like most calipers.
Yup, you press back the pistons so the new pads will go in.
Gotta have the brake fluid reservoir cap off (loose at least) because pressing pads back forces fluid back up the line.
Pressing back the piston on one side of the caliper often pops out the piston on the other side. No matter, you're only sliding in that one pad right now, a few minutes later you'll do it's brother.
I usually pull the two old pads first, get a look at them, then put the thinner pad back in on one side and use it to press back the piston(s) there. Screwdriver slipped in alongside the rotor, pry against center of pad. OK to beat on an old pad. The rotor's edge can take it. Never tried using a big pry-bar, the rotor might not be up to that. I often also use vise-grips squeezing on the pad's end tabs.
Caliper usually needs cleaning out the pathway so the new pad has a clear path.
Also often need to clean burrs off the new pad's backing plate.
I like pads that come with shims already bonded on.
But it seems like everyone has their own favorite type of pad.
--
DAMHIK: Don't Ask Me How I Know - - - Sven: '89 245, IPD sways, electric rad. fan conversion, e-codes, 28+ mpg - auto tranny. 500 mi/week commute. '89 245 #2 (wifemobile). '90 244 (spare, runs).
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...but what is that pad changing method that requires system bleeding afterward?
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Actually, I have no idea. The first time I did the pads, front or rear, and did not need to "open" the system, that's the only way I have ever done them. I know that for a really good job, one should have the rotors turned, but even that doesn't require opening the system.
I think that the first time I ever did pads was on my 1975 245DL, for which I had purchased a number of the "green" Volvo manuals and I may have done whatever it said. OR, since I was doing brakes on my 1947 Chevvy and 1955, 1960 and 1969 Fords many years before owning a Volvo, I may not have read anything. Just went in there and did what made sense to me.
Do you think my comment could lead a newbie astray?
Regards,
Bob
:>)
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"Do you think my comment could lead a newbie astray?"
Well, it does seem to imply that bleeding might sometimes be required on a pad change. And I've seen posts on first-timer pad changes where bleeding was (unnecessarily) attempted. So maybe some things are better left unsaid.
No offense intended Bob, but that was my reaction.
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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Yes, you're right about being safe.
an idea: you might be able to get a friend to work with you on the brakes, and you can watch also.
it's worth a try.
good luck.
regards,
byron golden
86 245
92 245
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Sounds like you got what you paid for. If you are not up to the task you might want to seek out the services of a competent Volvo independent that uses factory parts.
Mark
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well If that is true I would hate to see how much a good job would cost me! I mean we are talking about a $300 job and for a college kid that is alot of money!
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I'm with Rule 308 in that if you're not up to it a competent Volvo independent mechanic is likely the best way to go. Generic "we do 'em all" muffler + brake shops may or may not have any respect or appreciation for your near-vintage brick.
I and at least one other person responding here want to encourage you to learn how to change pads and maybe also rotors and calipers when needed.
I definitely recommend doing the jobs with a 240-experienced friend the first time.
Doing pads on a 240 is pretty easy. Arguably easier than on most any other car, since you don't need to remove the caliper from its mount. I think that if you're ready and willing to learn something new then you can learn it. Be sure to learn to spot bad rotors and bad calipers [not rocket science] so that if you start changing pads and it needs other work, you will recognize that and make sure it gets done.
--
DAMHIK: Don't Ask Me How I Know - - - Sven: '89 245, IPD sways, electric rad. fan conversion, e-codes, 28+ mpg - auto tranny. 500 mi/week commute. '89 245 #2 (wifemobile). '90 244 (spare, runs).
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OK Teach me. Not trying to be smart I really want Know I mena I have general knowledge of break systems I took auto tech for 3 years in hs but have never atempted to do it my self.
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posted by
someone claiming to be sorenson-jr
on
Fri Aug 4 00:59 CST 2006 [ RELATED]
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If you've had three years auto tech training, you'll be able to teach yourself using a good repair manual, such as Bentley. The procedures for the Volvo are clearly illustrated. Your training will all come back to you once you set aside some time and tools. The money you save will go into more tools at the start, and reading the book will get you into more maintenance. The guys on this board will help with the least little niggling questions or reassurances, just like having a class of peers around you.
It is true the Volvo brake pads are a dream to work on compared with anything you learned in school.
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Pads have to be changed in pairs, but tear apart only one side at a time. If you get stuck putting it back together, you can look at the other side for reference.
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