I`m slowly working my way through weatherproofing. I have water getting around both tailights although externally the seal looks good and their doesn`t seem to be water behind the lens. I may be getting water around the reflectors as well. The water is finding it`s way into the trunk below both these structures. As I write this I`m wondering if just tightening up to mounting screws might stop it. Anyone have similar experience?

I know the trunk seal is leaking up top, but I`ve got that covered.

Can y`all think of a way for water to get on the passenger floor other than a windshield gasket? I`ve got the gasket and will have it replaced when I can find a trim shop that gives me reasonable odds of not breaking the windshield. Guess I can`t expect a guarantee, I know I would probably break it. I would hate to have to get a new windshield when I just need to replace a cracked, dry, gasket.

The rear window seems to seal OK.

I recently found water leaking from under the dash on a 122 via a new (to me) route. Water was coming in where the outside clips hold down the heater air intake screen. The inside clips poke through holes into the air intake/heater box and on to the drain - hopefully. The two outer holes drained onto the firewall, then on to several holes in the firewall that should have been plugged but weren't.

I used some "Mobile Home Putty Tape" to plug the holes around the clips. Tested it by blasting the windshield/wiper arm area with a hose. Problem solved!

I originally bought the "Putty Tape" locally at a True Value hardware store to repair my truck camper. It stays pliable under a wide range of temperatures and sticks pretty well, too. I will probably try it on the holes where the chrome trim fastens through the body.

Mike J.

My solution: Live in a dry climate, park undercover, and drive on sunny days.

Regarding passenger floor, there are a few culprits where water can get in:

the heater box

seal is often poor, and the drain may be blocked: test by pouring water through the air intake grills (with the hood open) and watch to see if it all runs out through the drain. If not it's probably pushing into the car through the heater box, and you can run inside and stick your hear down there to see.

any wire holes twixt engine compartment and cabin - bung them up with anything sticky and water repellent

Take out any covering that you have on the floor until you get this sorted out, so that it can dry out quickly. Most amazon owners sympathise and have been chasing leaks like this for years. Good luck!

Tom

I've discovered that the heater box is the main culprit of water in my 122. I've unplugged the drain, but if there is more than just a little water, it goes into the heaterbox and as far as I can tell, most of it ends up in the car.
How hard is it to replace the seals on the heater box, and where can I get them (and what exactly are they called)?
thanks!

Thanks to all. I replaced a VW bug windshield years ago-it was not too hard. My concern is that the Volvo gasket is old and brittle. I talked to a local installer and he said sometimes one can cut away the old gasket. Mine also has the chrome trim that would add a step. Guess a glass man would have all the tools, spatulas,etc.

I bought a new trunk gasket, but upon inspection I think my main trunk leak is the result of part of the old gasket coming unglued allowing water to flow underneath the mating surface. I think I`ll try re-gluing it first.

Is the windhield gasket the main source of water on the front floorboards?

Even if the tail light gaskets are in really poor shape, very little water will enter the trunk -- more likely that the water is coming from elsewhere and collecting there. Is this a few tablespoons of water, or a couple cups of water?

Is there any rust on the aft sides of the fenders that might allow water in? I've seen holes in the trunk floor where it meets the fender that allow water into the trunk... any chance of that? You mention that you have the trunk gasket covered -- do you mean that it's leaking but you're going to replace it, or have you been able to rule it out with certainty?

The holes that the clips fit through along the side of the car (the clips that hold the trim in place) can lead to water leaks too - the factory used a putty substance to seal these up - might check this.

Note about black silicone sealants - pure silicone is probably okay (but it'll make repainting the car more difficult in the future) -- most of the "silicone sealants" offered at the parts stores contain other ingredients which can rapidly accelerate rust.

Best,

Cameron
Rose City

You may want to consider changing that windshield gasket yourself. It's one way of making sure that the rust under the gasket is taken care of properly. I have done it, albeit a long time ago, and it is not really that hard to do. Four hands make the job easier, but I did it by myself. The BB Archives should have quite a bit of information on the procedure (The question has come up often enough), but if you can't find anything, I'm quite sure that I could dig up the required instructions for you.
Bob S.

Thanks everyone. I printed out the VClassics article on windhield seal replacement and there is another helpful thread going here on BB. I think I will attempt it myself when I have the time. My main concern was getting the windshield out. The ticket seems to be cutting the old gasket from inside the car. After that rust repair and work carefully and slowly.

Interesting comment on the heaterbox. My drain seems clear and most of the water seems to get on passenger floor when driving and not just sitting. Makes me think that pressure at the base of the windshield aids rainwater entry.

Hey, always something to do!

In my efforts to keep my '68 water tight I bolster the gaskets - trunk, windshield, tail lights, vent windows - with black silicone. Using painters tape during application helps to keep it looking OK.