Hello,
The transmission was removed, repaired and re-installed (twice), after I installed the flywheel in the wrong position for the crank sensor. I lined up the flywheel hole void with the starter opening at TDC as per the FAQ.

The car hasn't been started in about 6 weeks which I hope is the main problem.

On the first try it started but died after about 3 seconds, and cranks well but hasn't started since.

The trouble shooting results so far are:

There are no engine fault codes.

The timing reads 10 deg BTDC, which is a little less than the normal 12-15 is usually have. Inductive timing light shows a spark at each spark plug wire.

I replaced the spark plugs, which were very black and sooty from a rich running condition when the O2 sensor failed and was replaced about 6 weeks ago.

Fuel pump comes on and pressure is good at 40 psi.

I squirted some Gunk "instant start" into the open throttle body with no success.

There were no air hoses removed for the work done, and I don't see any leaking.

Is there a likely problem for a car that has sat for a while to cause a no start?

Thanks.

Seems that if you're getting spark the starter fluid should cause something to happen providing the timing is right. Your camm belt isn't broken it is? How do the plugs look after some cranking? Are they wet with gas or dry?

It was the smallish wire going from the + battery terminal to power the radio suppression relay, which in turn supplies the injectors.

Cleaned off all the rust and made a new connector and presto!

Thanks everyone for all of your input.

Be certain you've got 12V at the fuel pump plug (left rear of the trunk or cargo area). There's only one fuel pump on these cars, so a little less to worry about, but they still do fail. I just replaced one in a 90, due to the white plastic inside the fuel sock coming apart and jamming little bits in the pump!

In addition to the bad pump, I found a ground wire at the control unit (right front kick panel) that was off. It was black with a white stripe and had pulled or vibrated off it's grounding pin. Weird coincidence. Initially 12V was intermittent at the plug and that seemed to be the cause! Multiple faults going on I guess. Very odd.


For injectors not firing, check the grounds on the intake manifold (10mm bolts on top). It definitely has strong spark? Another damn weird Regina 740. Gimme a Bosch system any day of the week....


--
Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: 92 244-M47-207K ::: 90 745GL-M47-268K ::: 88 245DL-AW70-230K ::: 88 244 SOLD! 87 244 SOLD! Still looking for a bright red or black 244 with sunroof...

In all seriousness, have you checked for impulses at the crank sensor?
It seems like the first place to check to me.

Good Luck
-Will
--
1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond

I don't think so. Had my volvo sit numerous times for 6mths to a year. Since you have spark, and pressure is good. If it doesn't try to start with fluid, then the next logical step is timing/compression. I would verify all electrical connections.

It is very easy to get the spark plug wires on wrong too. I don't know if using an inductive timing light gives you enough information to know that spark is at correct time or not... That might have saved me some time in the past.

Also, you can purchase something I think called a 'noid' light and connect it to your injector wires. I don't think you will find one made for Volvo's at Autozone, but all that matters is the spacing of the prongs. Find one that fits.
--
84 245 tan, '86, '89, '90 740s RIP '84 245 red

After being stumped, I had the car towed to Canadian Tire, who found from their noid light test that the injectors weren't getting any current, but they couldn't find a reason. I had already tried swamping the radio suppression relay with the cooling fan rely, with no luck. Does anyone know of another fault in the injector cicuit?? Ground etc.?

Not an expert on 1991 systems but in earlier versions the key activates the RSR and then supplies power to the ballast resistor which in turns supplys current to the injectors. Actual grounding takes place in the FI computer(ECC)
You need to work backwards with a test light to find out why the injs. are not powered.
I'm also thinking that swapping RSR's may not be definitive unless you are certain that it functions correctly.



Sorry, I have no manuals on the 1991 so none of what I just said may apply.

Is this a turbo or non?

The turbo will have LH-jet, and those early ECU's do have a high failure rate. I've read about one instance where the ECU failed with an injector fault.

The non-turbo will likely have Regina... and I don't think I've heard of those ECU's failing.

-Ryan



--
Athens, Ohio -- 1990 245, 125k, M47, E-codes -- 1991 745, 278k (girlfriend-mobile)

I guess there is always the possibility of the fan relay not working either?

It was suggested here not long ago that the radio suppression relay can be removed and the socket jumpered. The jumper wire went to the two contacts with the heavier wire (socket contacts with the rounded corners).

I had a similiar problem with an 88 744Ti that turned out to be a bad ECU. Not a common problem with that particular ECU but obviously not unheard of either. I had a friend open the bad one up and take a look and he suggested it had taken on some moisture.

Randy