I got the 164E up and running today. There are no signs of coolant any place where it doesn't belong.
Now that it actually runs there are many other things to attend to.

• Is there a way to replace the fuel line running from the injectors to the rail? They look quite old and brittle.
  
• IPD doesn't specifically sell 164 bushings. I understand the 164 is based heavily upon the 140. Do 140 bushings fit?
  
• The same question as above, but this time about sway bars.
  
• Does anyone have a speedometer (ribbon type) and a '75 distributor they'd be willing to part with?
  

I just bought 18 inches of injector hose and a dozen hose clamps at my local auto parts store. I am waiting for my injectors to come back from Cruzin.

Klaus
--
(V♂LV♂s 1995 854T, 1998 V70R)

Adding on to what George said, the bushes for the upper A arms are expensive & harder to find. Best way to go is to get a pair of 140 1970+ upper arms & use easy to find poly bushes in them. The IPD bars are too big for road car use, the absolute max you want on the front is 22mm available from KG Trimning.

Does KG make a rear swaybar for the 164? I'd like to know before I shell out for the catalog.

The 164 has a solit axle, no need for sway bars.
--
(V♂LV♂s 1995 854T, 1998 V70R)

Yes, they have rears too, not that you really need one.
You can download their catalog in pdf form.

1. The hoses to the injectors should be replaced as due diligence
as they give out easily with incendiary results. If the old hoses are put
on with ferrules the ferrules can be removed with your Dremel Moto-tool and
#109 or equivalent abrasive cutoff disks. Use regular 5/16"/8mm fuel injection
hose and clamps that are NOT worm-gear type for best results.
2. Except for the upper A-frame bushes they are the same (at least before
1975) as the 140. Might want to check with RPR or some others who stock
more oldtimer parts.
3. No, the Sway Bars are different. IPD used to sell them for the 164.
4. I might be able to cough up a speedo if you don't find one elsewhere.
Right now I do not have a 75 164 distributor but I may eventually - I have
one I may be able to repair but have not had either time or inclination to
work on with 105°+ temps outside these days.

--
George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!

If you are going to convert to electronic ignition, you will need the wiring and the control unit as well as the distributor. You may want to look into the advance curve, as they are likely to be different. The 75 was considerably less powerful than the 72. The compression was lowered and the cam was changed. It may be possible to swap the weights and springs from your distributor into the 75.

I have a MSD 6A sitting in my garage, just doing nothing. I'm going to hook it up to run off the points for now, but I think the EI distributor should drive it okay.

I think the big change was the compression ratio.
To the best of my knowledge nearly all the B30s had the C cam but if it
was changed the cam would have been the K cam which is more like the
D cam (better).
There is more difference in the way the hp was measured in 75 than there
was in actual horsepower.

I put a 75 240 distributor in my B20 powered 122 wagon and it was better
in every way.
--
George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!

George,

How long have you had that EI setup in the celery wagon? Any problems along the way? I will put mine in over the weekend, now that the Overdrive project is done.

--
...and the bricks keep on rolling

I think about 3 years and I had no problems with it but it has been NF since
the oil pump failure about a year ago or so and Ben has been using the
Yellow Peril. When he gets it back it will probably be without the electronic
ignition. I'll be using it on the gray wagon eventually unless I find
another one at a bargain price.
--
George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!

Oil pump failure? What kind? I've done two, split a drive shaft once, pumped out the idler shaft on the other.

Idler shaft came out, gear milled a postage-stamp window in pump body.
--
George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!

It's amazing that the gear keeps spinning without the shaft to guide it for awhile. Some pumps have more meat around the idler shaft & if I do recycle a case, I like to use some wick-in Loctite on it.

I know of at least one racer who drills and pins them in.
Until this happened on the Celery Wagon I had never heard of that
happening.
--
George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!

I know of at least one racer who drills and pins them in.

Good I deal. Personally, I'd use a grub screw or two if I wasn't lazy.

Steel & Aluminium don't really go well together. Steel expands less & slower than Aluminium, so the more you heat it, the looser the pin becomes. (Like floating gudgeon pins)

Furthermore, according to courses I took in the 50s (and have since proven
by experience on numerous occasions) if you make the pin a greater interference
fit, the aluminum yields at low temps or creeps at high temps and it still
doesn't stay tight.
--
George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!