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Convert to Manual Steering Rack?

I've read about a few older 200 series Volvo where the owners have converted an older manual steering rack over to a power one.

How do our bricks do with the manual rack? I mean, is the power rack really needed, or does a Volvo with a manual rack drive like an old truck?

I got to thinking about this because the steering pump is right in the way and makes it hard to get to the a/c compressor. Also, I remember having a '81 Honda that had power steering. Why it had ps is beyond me as I also had an '80 model that didn't. When the ps went out, I simply replaced it with a manual rack. It was still easy to park, etc.

What years would be more likely to have come with a manual rack?










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    Convert to Manual Steering Rack?

    I cut the belt on an 81 that was losing ps oil, and it drove nicely.
    Neither of my 81s had AC so access wasn't an issue. I preferred the
    feel of the manual steering, but my current 81 already drives like
    an old truck with its m46 and noisy interior, so I'll keep the ps
    which seems to be ok.
    --
    Stef (rewired harness, rebuilt Bosch 55 ampere alternator Interstate MTP-65 battery, speedo/odo converted to miles, scotia blue 81 245 B21A SU M46 3.91)








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    Convert to Manual Steering Rack?

    A manual rack will show up at least as late as some '80 DL models. Around the very early 80's, I think most cars are going to have power racks.

    Try removing the PS belt from your car and drive the power rack with no assist. You have to drive it for at least a week, maybe 2 or 3, before you get used to it. If you try it for a day and think it's too hard to steer, it's because you're not used to it.

    I had the power assist removed for me on the highway about 3+ yr ago when the ac compressor (or clutch) seized and broke the belt. It was really hard at first, but I've since removed the power steering and I really like it. I have MUCH better road feel than in my '90 244 with power steering, which is way too light and easy to turn.

    edit: if you pull a manual rack, go ahead and grab the steering shaft too. It's different on some early manual rack cars, and might be alltogether different from the power rack steering shaft...I'm not sure. Also, non-power cars used straight ball joints that are the same for each side. Power rack cars used ball joints that angled forward to move the bottom of the strut forward which adds castor. More castor makes the steering heavier, which is why the non-power cars had less castor. If your steering is too heavy, you can also install the power steering ball joints on the opposite sides to reduce castor even more.

    --
    forums.turbobricks.com







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