I'm having to put back together an airlfow meter on a CIS-equiped 244 that I recently bought. The previous owner took it completely apart thinking it should be cleaned. In the process, he removed the screw that adjusts the mixture. Anyway, Acording to the Volvo greenbook, the 3mm screw should be turned until fuel "begins to flow from an open port on the fuel distributor" and then turned back counter-clockwise 1/2 turn. These are the instructions for replacing the part with another one.

Does this mean that fuel should just become visable in the open port, or should it be flowing out? I know I will have to fine tune the CO once I get it running, but for now, I just want to get it started.

I tried turing the 3mm screw until fuel just appears, but I've still got a no start. The injectors spray when the flap is manually raised and the pumps are on, so I know I'm getting fuel, just not the right amount.

Any ideas?

Not the best technique, but you could prove lack of fuel by giving the manifold a squirt of ether while cranking. If it starts then, maybe you can try 1/4 turn shy of distributor opening instead of 1/2. Plate is centered, at the cone bottom and moves freely, I take it.

When I have done this I have just taken it to where fuel rises up to the top of the port and shut off the pumps. Why make a mess?

but for now, I just want to get it started

Is the car not starting? If not, I think it must be for some other reason. Does the spray from the injectors look normal?
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'80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon

Yes, the spray from the injectors looks normal.

And the plate is centered The injectors squirt fuel with the pumps running and the airflow plate raised manually.

Well, that's what they're supposed to do so I don't think your no-start condition is from lack of fuel.
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'80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon

I think I have it adjusted too rich as when it finally fired up, the brake booster line was disconnected so I had a lot of "bypassed" air going into the engine that wasn't affecting the airflow meter. When I plugged the brake booster hole, the engine stalled and died. Just for fun, I disconnected the fuel pump relay and it restarted for a few seconds before it died again. I'm going to turn the screw back towards lean to see if I can get it dialed in a bit better.

Do you have a dwell meter or DVOM that measures duty cycle? Using either of these you can check the duty cycle of the Lambda Sond frequency valve and adjust the idle mixture to where the cycle is at about 50%.
Actually the proper way to go about this on a K-Jet system is to make sure there are no vacuum leaks, clean the throttle body, adjust the ignition timing to spec, verify that your oxygen sensor is working properly and adjust the constant idle feature. Then measure the FV duty cycle and adjust the mixture.
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'80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon