Greetings,

I'm having driveline vibration issues and changed all u-joints this weekend. Still vibrating, although less. My next project is the tranny mount. I attempted it this weekend, but threw in the towel after 45 very frustrating minutes. I couldn't find anything in my Bently manual. After the mount, it's off to the tailshaft bushing if it doesn't stop. I've done a tailshaft on my wife's '89 765T.

Anyone got a set of instructions or a how-to for the tranny mount? It seemed the angle was too steep to get to the 17mm nut on the inside of the crossmember. Or, maybe there's another way? It's a B230F + AW 70 set-up. I'm all ears, ladies and gentlemen.....

Stormie - '88 240DL 513,000 miles, original owner, original engine, second tranny

Replaced the tranny mount last night and the vibration is worse! I was really tough getting the crossmember back up after putting the new mount on. I started the car and it sounded like someone was under the car, banging on the floorboard. I'm thinking tailshaft bushing, as these are the symptoms that my 765T had before I replaced it.

Any other ideas? This is driving me crazy!

You explained your u-joint replacement but didn't mention whether you kept the balanced assembly by marking the driveshaft and flange positions. I suspect that is the source of your vibration, as anyone puzzling over it would surely have mentioned that part of the procedure.

Thanks, the DS was properly indexed prior to removal. Love that White-Out!

Maybe a silly question, but did you check your engine mounts? If the cross-member was a major pia to reinstall, your engine mounts may be bad.

Haven't checked 'em, but will this weekend. What am I looking for?

Yupper... The Crossmember has to come off.
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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me

I do this... Put a jack undet the trans. You don't want to actually lift anything, just take the weight. Then remove the 4 crossmember-to-frame bolts. This will allow you to tweak things so you can get at the nut inside the crossmember. BTW, when you put the new one in, you won't need this. The fact that you can't quite get at the nut is a factor of the mount being shot.