It's just the bar itself and nothing else. I got it from someone who was gonna sell it but said he would give it for free to the first person who shows up in a Volvo 240, as it came off a 240T :o) I called iPd many months ago to see what I would need, and the guy whom I spoke to said the part# is FBK06, which includes 2 grommets, 2 poly bushings, and 2 U-shaped thingies. IPd has over-$50 free shipping that ends Sept. 1, so today I called iPd to place an order on the bushing kit and some other things. However, the guy said the part# does not exist and said this and that and sorta got me confused. I postponed the order to look into it more. So basically I only have a swaybar with no bushings and what not. To install it, what parts do I need? I was told by two people from iPd months back that I would need part# FBK06, which is a 6-piece bushing kit. Now today I had this guy telling me otherwise and confusing me with what I took to be talk about suspension bushings for the front and then he mentions the rear bushings. I don't think the rear swaybar requires any parts to install, or am I wrong? But that is beside the point, as I was only calling about the front bar. I know there are bushings for the suspension.

Anyhow, I've been hearing too many people praising the virtues of having a thicker swaybar and how it made a noticeable difference that I am gonna do it. I've been hesitant about installing mine since getting it because I wasn't sure if I should pay a shop to install it or do it myself. I've received quotes of $50 to $70, but I've read that it is an easy job. Fifty bucks is quite a bit for a possible DIY job--and this is only the installation with no part pricing included! After doing some level-2 or 3 DIY jobs, I think I'm up to the task.

So, fellow bricknuts, what parts do I need and what tools? Will I need to jack the car up to swap the bars? I'm not a big person and can get under the car without jacking the car up, so if the tires don't need to be lifted off the ground, then that would be great.

On a side note, I was gonna order the 240 vent covers for my '89 240, but I learned today that the catalog price is no longer $39 but $100! The iPd guy said their main source of the covers stopped making them so they went to another source.

My 2 cents and experience after the change.
By chance I got 23 front and 21 rear in a junk yard. I first put on front bar with a spare 21 mm bushing I had . The bushing just does not cover the full circumference of bar but if it stays on then it is OK . Then I drove the car for 2 weeks before going to rear end . There is slight tightness at curves It surely rolls but tries to get level much quicker.
Then I put the rear 21 mm bar which made a major difference to rear end . It does not roll that much and when say you are making a turn which slopes out of turn ( i.e. the road bank is higher at the inside of curve which is exactly opposite to normal banking which should have outer side higher than inner) you can feel that rear end does not fall out but stays firmly planted.I think all such turns are at such points when you are joining the main road which is sloping.
There are generic bushings avaiable along with the clamp at advanceautoparts store.

Regards
Gopesh

I've looked all through my latest catalog, #46, and I can't find a mount and bushing kit for the 25mm sway bar (the stuff is included when you buy a new bar from them).
They list all the stuff for the stock regular and turbo bars (20 and 23mm), but not the 25mm bar. You need the right mount and bushings (they're sized to fit) to make the bar work. On the other hand, the 23mm parts (CB6K4201) might work with a little struggle, perhaps -- no guarantee, though. By the way, this kit ($39.) includes the end link's upper bushings as well, so if you buy this, you don't have to buy what I've listed below.
So be sure, if at all possible, to get the mounts and bushings that fit in them when you pick up the bar.

As for the rest of the stuff, that's easier:
4 end link's upper bushings (optional but recommended) -- poly (2 per side): CB2B1020, $2.50 each (order 4, but if you order the mounts above, these are included).
2 end link's lower bushings (optional) -- poly (1 per side): CB1205926P, $9 ea (order 2).

And let me offer some advice -- try very hard to acquire a bigger rear bar as well. The installation of just this heavier front bar will give your car an 'understeer' handling characteristic. A little understeer is good (safe, stable) but this is probably going to be excessive -- the car's front end will be reluctant to turn and tend to follow a wider track, possibly even putting you on the wrong side of a two lane road if you take a curve too fast!

Good luck.
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P.S. - I do like IPD's swaybars -- I've got front and rears on both of my two '93s, and they make a world of difference on the road.

"And let me offer some advice -- try very hard to acquire a bigger rear bar as well. The installation of just this heavier front bar will give your car an 'understeer' handling characteristic. A little understeer is good (safe, stable) but this is probably going to be excessive -- the car's front end will be reluctant to turn and tend to follow a wider track, possibly even putting you on the wrong side of a two lane road if you take a curve too fast!"

It's obvious you haven't tried it.

A large front bar will help maintain alignment while cornering. It will reduce body roll and tire rollover (loss of camber and loss of grip).

If you want excessive understeer, REMOVE the front sway bar. Then you'll get it. Even more nose dive entering corners...no thanks.

Put on the big front bar, it will help. If it were mine, I would hog out the stock bushings till I could fit the stock brackets over the bushings, and bolt it up with the stock endlink bushings, squished tight. That's exactly what I did on my '90 244 when I bought a 25mm front bar that had no hardware. I've got the stock rear bar, DeCarbon front struts, and R-Sport rear shocks. The car handles well has a slight understeer balance, but lacks overall grip due to the skinny 14" tires. I autocrossed the car once early this year and it performed well with 225/45/15 Hoosier R3S04. It turns in well despite having near 0 camber on one side and POSITIVE 0.3 on the other...and that's with the mounts pushed in all the way. Get as much negative camber as you can to help front grip.

I'm not a fan of big rear bars because it tends towards picking up the inside rear tire while cornering, giving poor grip in acceleration off corners. Stiffer rear springs with a small rear bar will give better mechanical grip and keep the inside tire planted better, while also balancing the handling towards neutral to oversteer depending on the driver's preference.
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forums.turbobricks.com

hi there.
auto zone sells all the parts you need for the sway bar install.
i dont have part# but have bought what was needed for my 25mm sway bar install.
if you look at the hardware that holds your stock sway bar on it may help you to understand exactly what you need.
auto zone is the cheapest place i found to source the poly bushings you need.
probably around 30.00$ going by memory.
you may want to source a turbo sway for the rear, as jorell said the bars make a noticeable difference.
after my first set i put on i took a right hand turn and all the wheels were screaming, as i was going faster than it felt like.
good luck
mike
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25 by 25 sways, HD bils, B&G springs, strut & firewall braces, turbo cam & gear, exaust mods,14psi boost, E-codes, and more

I may do this same Sway bar upgrdae..someday. Is there any reason we cannot use the existing Bushings? Are the holes in the sway bar different.
I've never seen the 25mm or 23mmm bars so I am totally in the dark.
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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me

The bushings on the end-links are all the same. The only difference is the ID for the bushing that goes around the bar and is bracketed to the frame. The IPD kit has a nice poly replacement of the proper size (my last wagon came with 25mm bars still in the box, plus a trunkful of other goodies).

Oh.. OF COURSE. I didn't even think of those I was only thinking of the Ends.

It was a dumb question.

Thanks
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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me

The last thing you want to do is only install a front 25mm bar and leave the rear stock. This will cause the car to push "not turn" and chew up the front tires.

If you are interested in a better handling 240 on the street, put a 25mm in the front and a 23mm bar in the rear, this is a safe solution. If you want to autocross your brick, go with 25mm front and rear... but watch out in the rain as the rear end has a serious tendency to brake loose (aka LOOSE).

As far as the bushings for the front sway bar, IPD should be able to tell you what you need.

jorrell
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89 244 171K miles, 92 245 236K miles, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup

"The last thing you want to do is only install a front 25mm bar and leave the rear stock. This will cause the car to push "not turn" and chew up the front tires."

Care to explain why it would chew up tires with MORE roll resistance at the front?

Perhaps if you REMOVED the front bar, you could induce more roll, more weight transfer, and chew the outer edges faster. What do you think?
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forums.turbobricks.com