posted by
someone claiming to be planetgong
on
Wed Aug 30 16:58 CST 2006 [ RELATED]
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My 92 240 had a heater inlet hose go and the whole coolant system drained. Car over heated. Replaced hose. No more leaking of coolant but the car is still overheating. The car just "sounds" different then it did before the overheat.
I ran it about 10 minutes in the driveway with nothing bad happening, but noticed a noise either added or missing from the sound of the car. Sounds like it is running "slower". Took it for a spin around the block, it stalls out at a stop sign when I press the gas. No coolant leaking out and still coolant in the resivior. Engine overheated/almost did (engine temp gauge not operating)
The fan pretty much spins freely when engine is cold.
If it is this fan clutch thing is it going to be much harder then replacing a heater inlet coolant hose?
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Have you tryed cleaning off your radiator fins?I had an overheating problem myself,Ive read that dirty fins cause the radiator to act like a heat sink.I just went to the car wash and sprayed off the radiator bugs,ex,ex.No more overheating problems for me
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Did you take off the cap and fill the radiator? Or did you just put water
in the reservoir? The radiator needs to be full.
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George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!
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The ones I've seen get filled via the reservoir cap.
I don't have experience on the really old ones pre-'83 but this one is a '92.
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DAMHIK: Don't Ask Me How I Know - - - Sven: '89 245, IPD sways, electric rad. fan conversion, e-codes, 28+ mpg - auto tranny. 500 mi/week commute. '89 245 #2 (wifemobile). '90 244 (spare, runs).
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Pre-83 is really NEW. Pre-57 is OLD.
But I probably blathered where I would have been better off to shut up.
The 140/164 and 122s DID have a radiator cap, both vertical and crossflow,
and you could NOT fill the radiator through the reservoir on them.
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George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!
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My kid brother is a '57 model. He's getting old.
I'm a '52 model. Definitely old!
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DAMHIK: Don't Ask Me How I Know - - - Sven: '89 245, IPD sways, electric rad. fan conversion, e-codes, 28+ mpg - auto tranny. 500 mi/week commute. '89 245 #2 (wifemobile). '90 244 (spare, runs).
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"DId you fully burp theair out of the system when hooking the top hose up"
what is the procedure for burping?
thanks
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Enem v15 cam, adj. cam gear, new head, trans cooler, stainless brake lines, e-fan, braces, IPD sways, 100% poly bushed, Bils, boxed front & rear arms, wagon lowering springs, FWD rims, 25/32mm adapters, powder coated stuff, zero mile-d, & more
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posted by
someone claiming to be planetgong
on
Thu Aug 31 01:57 CST 2006 [ RELATED]
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I'd really like to know this. I'd feel really silly if I had a half full radiator because of some air bubble or something.
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Re. burping the cooling system:
240 system is essentially self-burping as designed. Thermostat has a small vent hole with a "jiggle pin" near the perimeter of the thermostat.
When installing thermostat this vent-jiggle-pin opening has to be at the highest point possible so rising air bubbles will escape through it.
And be sure that you don't gop it up with added gasket sealant so the valve is defeated.
You'll see that from that point the "upward floating" path for air bubbles continues through the hose, across the radiator and out the radiator through the small hose into the reservoir. So any bubbles should work their way out. I suppose this could be defeated by blockages in the upper radiator tubes (they are horizontal) or in the small hose to reservoir.
Many folks fill the system slowly with thermostat removed till the coolant is visible there, then install the t'stat and upper hose. Makes sense to me. But I suspect that as long as the t'stat is in properly with the vent hole up high where it belongs, any air will all come out eventually.
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DAMHIK: Don't Ask Me How I Know - - - Sven: '89 245, IPD sways, electric rad. fan conversion, e-codes, 28+ mpg - auto tranny. 500 mi/week commute. '89 245 #2 (wifemobile). '90 244 (spare, runs).
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...just supporting what Sven said, I've done a dozen+ coolant drains/fills on the 240's and never had a "burping" problem. Thermostat bleed hole/jiggle pin at 12:00, fill the reservoir tank to the 'Max' line, wait a few minutes and top up if nec., then start and fully warm up the engine. Watch the temp gauge and look for leaks to make sure all is well. Shut down overnight and check the reservoir in the AM - at most, I've had to add 4-500ml. Check also for any signs of overnight leakage under the car, and in the belly pan.
If I've changed out to fresh coolant and I'm expecting cold weather soon, I'll use the block drain to lower the reservoir level to the very bottom, then pour what came out of the block back into the reservoir. Yeah, overkill, but this makes sure the pure water that is typically used to top up the reservoir is now mixed in with Glycol, and the whole system is reasonably consistent in Glycol concentration and won't freeze. This would happen anyway through a number of heating/cooldown cycles, but if it gets below Zero before that, you could have a problem.
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Bob (son's 81-244GL B21F/M46, dtr's 83-244DL B23F/M46, my 94-944 B230FD and 89 745 (LT-1 V8); hobbycar 77 MGB, and a few old motorcycles)
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I do think you need to leave the reservoir cap off for a bit to help it burp. Like let it warm up fully??
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DAMHIK: Don't Ask Me How I Know - - - Sven: '89 245, IPD sways, electric rad. fan conversion, e-codes, 28+ mpg - auto tranny. 500 mi/week commute. '89 245 #2 (wifemobile). '90 244 (spare, runs).
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Repeated overheating under normal use after an initial incident sounds a lot like (uh-oh) the head gasket has failed. Overheating can do this to the gasket, and then ongoing overheating results.
But - simple things first - check your thermostat, and replace it if there is any doubt. Clean out the rad and the AC condenser to ensure plenty of airflow.
If the car overheats at moderate steady speeds, this is definitely not a fan problem. Get a compression test, and/or a "hydrocarbon sniffer" of the coolant reservoir. This would pinpoint a bad gasket.
--
Bob (son's 81-244GL B21F/M46, dtr's 83-244DL B23F/M46, my 94-944 B230FD and 89 745 (LT-1 V8); hobbycar 77 MGB, and a few old motorcycles)
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I'm with Volvodad.
Sorry to say.
Complete loss of coolant isn't good for the engine (no news there).
If your fan is only spinning at the usual "not really engaged" speed I think it will cover most of your cooling needs, but not all. See my notes below.
Fan clutch engages when hot and mostly slips (but still spins) when engine is only slightly warmed up.
I've read that it is designed to grab when stone-cold but can't confirm.
I've observed a bit about engine temps and fan cooling.
- I've removed our temperature compensating boards from the gauges so they read directly and truthfully.
- My own car has an LED on the dash that tells me when the electric radiator fan has kicked on due to too-hot water coming OUT of the radiator. Has no mechanical fan. So if radiator is putting out hot water, I do know about it.
- I don't use AC (it's dead), so if yours works, "your results may vary".
- Temps here in southern New England were in the high 90's this past summer.
Even on a hot day, you need a really long traffic light to see any effects on engine temp or radiator exit temps from that idling, even with no air flow whatsoever over the radiator.
Long upgrades at highway speeds will show a slight temperature increase but it will come back down on the downhill.
Long slow creeping (5-15 mph) in hot weather will give noticeable temp increase if there's no fan running.
Highway travel followed by brief stops and very slow driving will show higher temps due to the heat that's been stored up in the block will now be released. On the highway this heat is removed by the air flow over radiator but with the reduced air flow on small roads you'll see temp increases for a while if the fan is not helping.
All the advice from others re. cleaning out the radiator and AC condenser is good advice, as is the suggestion to verify the thermostat.
Re. burping the cooling system:
240 system is essentially self-burping as designed. Thermostat has a small vent hole with a "jiggle pin" near the perimeter of the thermostat. When installing this opening has to be at the highest point possible so rising air bubbles will escape through it.
--
DAMHIK: Don't Ask Me How I Know - - - Sven: '89 245, IPD sways, electric rad. fan conversion, e-codes, 28+ mpg - auto tranny. 500 mi/week commute. '89 245 #2 (wifemobile). '90 244 (spare, runs).
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posted by
someone claiming to be swedish canadian
on
Wed Aug 30 17:47 CST 2006 [ RELATED]
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one question? did you refill the lost fluid? not sure you mentioned that?
also, i just replaced my fan clutch because my car was overheating in city traffic - stop lights, stop and go on the highway...this is the classic "clutch fan" symptom...the car was fine otherwise when on the highway etc.
hope this helps?
sc
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posted by
someone claiming to be planetgong
on
Wed Aug 30 17:53 CST 2006 [ RELATED]
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Yes, I refilled the fluid. It had a half ful resivoir of fluid and still overheated. The first time it overheated was after driving on the highway then when I came into my neighborhood I started noticing problems.
Would spraying the radiator fins out with a garden hose from both sides possibly help a little? Or is fan clutch replacement the only cure?
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Spraying helps, make sure not to bend fins with the water pressure, taking the grill off and spending an hour with a pick tool and a small flat screwdriver digging all the tiny pebbles and bug guts out of the fins and straightening them, helps a bunch more. Air flow can get blocked as much as 80% or so just from those little nasties
Did you replace the thermostat and expansion tank cap ( with a black one)?
DId you fully burp theair out of the system when hooking the top hose up
If fan clutch is going, and in a hot climate, might want to consider a tropial fan clutch
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-------Robert, '93 940t, '90 240 wagon, '84 240 diesel (she's sick) , '80 245 diesel, '86 740 GLE turbo diesel, '92 Ford F350 diesel dually
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