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Hi again all,
Is this a Girling or ATE Caliper. Also, I see there are 3 bleeder screws. If I have to remove the caliper from its hard lines to take out the strut assembly, or the rotor off, do I bleed all 3?
Also, is there a simple way to remove the caliper without disconnect the hard brake lines into the caliper?
Thanks.
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To remove the rotor you don't need to disconnect the brake lines. take the brake pads out, undo the two caliper bolts, and gently push it to the rear so that it clears the rotor. Hang it from the spring.
You don't need to disconnect the brake lines to get the strut out. Remove the spring clips at the joints on the strut where the solid lines meet the rubber. Lift the union a bit until it has cleared the bracket, then make two careful cuts in the bracket to creat a slot just wide enough for the brake pipe to slip through. Some struts are ready-slotted.
If you do need to disconnect the brake lines to the calipoer, plug the holes quickly to stop fluid loss. Bench bleed the new caliper, and then you don't need to bleed the whole system. If the bleed nipples break off bleed the lines by leaving the joints a bit slack.
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If you need to replace the strut TUBE which has the brake lines running through that support bracket, you can CAREFULLY use a cutoff wheel on an angle grinder and cut through the bracket. You may nick the metal part of the brake line fitting, but if you're carefully you won't hurt anything. Then just bend the tab up out of the way and slip the brake light out of the bracket.
Most other work (bearings, hub, wheel studs, brakes, pads, strut insert, etc.) can be done w/o removing the brake lines from the strut tube.
That's a girling caliper. It's hard to find, but there is a "G" insignia on the caliper, hidden under one of the bleeder screws as I recall.
--
forums.turbobricks.com
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Looks like girling...
Just undo the bolts and hang them with a coat hanger wire... careful not to fold up the lines.
Greg Mustang
www.volvoclassic.bravehost.com
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Looks like girling...
Just undo the bolts and hang them with a coat hanger wire... careful not to fold up the lines.
Greg Mustang
www.volvoclassic.bravehost.com
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Hello,
Try this site:
http://www.homestead.com/volvo2/240struts.html
Mario
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82 242 DL-MPG
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Thanks, but unfortunately he didn't remove the caliper from the disc. The brake line bracket is welded onto the strut housing. Therefore it cannot be removed. And the brake lines are threaded "through" it, not merely clipped.
I think I am going to have to disconnect the 2 brake lines from the caliper to remove it for caliper replacement.
Now...........which one of the bleeder screws do I use to bleed the system when I get it all back together? My thinking is to bleed from the top most one. Air bubbles rise. Or does anyone else have suggestions? I'm all ears....and eyes.
Thanks.
P.S. heres another pic of the caliper.
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"Now...........which one of the bleeder screws do I use to bleed the system when I get it all back together? My thinking is to bleed from the top most one. Air bubbles rise. Or does anyone else have suggestions? I'm all ears....and eyes."
The pre-ABS 200's have two separate hydraulic systems. The recommended sequence (below) bleeds each system separately.
On the front calipers, the upper two cylinders form an inverted "U", with a single bleeder at the highest point. The lower two cylinders form an upright "U", with bleeders at the two high points. The upper and lower cylinders are each in a separate hydraulic system.
(See illustrations in Bentley, p 500-1 and Haynes, p 9-13)
Either system can be done first:
System A:
1) Left rear
2) Left front - Upper piston chambers (single bleeder, top)
3) Right front - Upper piston chambers (single bleeder, top)
System B:
4) Right rear
5) Right front - Lower piston chambers (inner and outer bleeders, either first)
6) Left front - Lower piston chambers (inner and outer bleeders, either first)
P.S. Get the Bentley 240 Service Manual—then come here if you still have questions.
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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You must bleed from all three screws. They are there for a reason.
John
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You really should get the Bentley repair manual, it is essential for anybody who is doing work on their 240. It will save you money in the long run.
The Bentley book explains all this, but:
If you are bleeding the brakes, you must bleed from all 3 bleed screws, one at a time. The upper and lower pistons on that caliper are not connected. So if you only bleed from the top nipple, then you will only be bleeding the top 2 pistons.
Greg
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Are you trying to do just the struts or replace the calipers. Replacing the struts does not mean disconnecting the brakes lines from the caliper. The lines are attached to the body by a bracket that is bolted on. If you remove the bracket the lines can be gently moved away to get the strut assembly out. I did this job last year without any issues. Now the calipers are a different story. By the way all 240's from 75 on used Girlings according to most catologs I have seen.
Mario
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82 242 DL-MPG
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Actually, I'm simply trying to remove the front Rotors. But everything seems to be attached to the strut.
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I always remove the lines. I really don't like bending them at all.
Get a Motive pressure bleeder and the bleed process is fairly easy.
http://www.motiveproducts.com/02bleeders.html
Get the model 0109.
John
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I just did that job last month. Actually the front rotors are easier than the rear (no parking brake) and should go easily. I never did this job before and it took me about 2 hours with pads and rotors. This is the link I used for help:
http://home.no.net/ebrox/Brakes.htm
Just remember to use some penetrating (PB Blaster) to loosen any rust and make sure you remove the 10mm screw in front that holds the rotor to the wheel, along with screws in back of the wheel that hold the caliper in place. Again you do not need to remove any brake lines to do this job. If you have any questions please ask. Good luck.
Mario
--
82 242 DL-MPG
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Its a good writeup, But he didn't mention if he had to disconnect the solid brake lines from the caliper before moving it out of the way.
Someone out there must have changed their rotors before.
I'd hate to think that you have to "bend" the brake lines. Not sure how much flexibility they have.
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Good to hear you liked it. After reading your posts, I realize that I should specifically have mentioned that I did not disconnect any brake lines. (I simply wrote what I actually did, and did not mention what I didn't do!)
Anyway, it's like Mario says, the brake lines have enough give to be carefully moved around a bit. Under normal circumstances there should not be any need for disconnecting if you are just replacing the rotors. Just don't force it.
Cheers, and good luck,
Erling.
--
My 240 Page
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The lines do have some give and move out of the way, but if you feel uncomfortable about it then you have to remove the lines from the calipers. This is a messy job which creates all sorts of possible problems such as lines braking when you remove them from the fittings. After your done the brakes need to be bleed which is a job on the 240's. As I said before, I did this job last year without touching the lines but it's your call. Do what you feel comfortable about.
Mario
--
82 242 DL-MPG
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Bleed at all three screws on each front caliper, and also on the rear caliper screws. Get yourself a Bentley. It has the bleeed sequence information and a map of the line routing. Balance off the cost against some of the money you've been saving by doing your own work.
If I recall, there are two brake lines serving each front caliper and a line for each rear caliper. I can't recall exactly how the 3 screws relate to the two lines but I know they're all bled in the bleed sequence.
--
Sven: '89 245 NA, 951 ECU, open-front airbox, E-fan, 205/65-15's, IPD sways, E-Codes, amber front corner reflectors. Wifemobile '89 245 NA stock. 90 244 NA spare, runs.
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I don't know enough to tell by looking. However:
99% or better of 240s in the US are
Front: Girling [abcdeFG... Front-Girling]
Rear: ATE [pqRsT...Rear-aTe]
To get caliper out of the way for a rotor change or other work, you can just unbolt it (the two largest bolts on back side of caliper) with lines attached, and hang it from the coil spring by wire or heavy cord. If changing the struts you might need something else to hold it up... or bite the bullet, open the lines and bleed everything.
Best is to get the Bentleys book from Amazon or eBay and get the details on bleeding. No real shortcuts here, except some guys really like the Motive Power pressure bleeders, or their own home-brew alternatives.
--
Sven: '89 245 NA, 951 ECU, open-front airbox, E-fan, 205/65-15's, IPD sways, E-Codes, amber front corner reflectors. Wifemobile '89 245 NA stock. 90 244 NA spare, runs.
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posted by
someone claiming to be hillbilly
on
Fri Nov 3 01:45 CST 2006 [ RELATED]
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A good way to tell the difference between ATE and Girling...
If you have to remove a "hair clip" from the pin before you can remove it, it's a Girling.
If you have to drive the pin out with a punch, it's a ATE.
steve
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