OK, so I'm up in Alaska and it's rather cold (!?)... It was negative-6F today for example. So far my ol' champ 242-Turbo has been starting up just fine, but today it had to struggle a little more noticably at -6F. Since I know from locals around here that it can get down into the -20's here in January, I need to plan ahead for when it gets that cold. Forthwith I have a couple of questions:

1) What are opinions on the "frost-plug" core/block heater elements that one can screw into the "frost plug" hole and then plug in versus those "pad" type elements which glue onto the underside of the oilpan and theoretically heat the oil and then the oil convects a little around the engine? I do like the idea of the oil already being warm at start up...?

2) Part of my decision on which system to go with in the above question is how difficult it might be to reach or access this "frost plug" and screw in the element and cord-kit myself. Can somebody describe to me where to find the plug so that I can look for it and make a judgement? Obviously it's rather cold out and I don't have a heated garage, so I don't want to have to spend three hours out in the cold pulling a bunch of parts out of the way from the top so that I can install the plug unit. Crawling around under on the frozen ground doesn't sound too appealing either, unless it's easily accessible and could be done quickly.

Thanks All!

i remember my dad digging coals out of the woodburner, and placing a coffe can of them under the oilpans of numerous vehicles. so if ya burn wood, your in luck.
lower hose heater- buy a brand new hose. take old one and install heater. change out come summer. no worries about restricions.

Hi Frosty-V -

Glad to hear there are a few more of us up here in Alaska. Are you in Anchorage? There are a number of shops that will install them for you (surprise, surprise), and if you've got a current IM, I believe you can get it done for $25 - the city has a clean air deal with EPA to get block heaters to cut down air pollution - hence the reduced price. Failing that - it depends on where you are. Most any shop can put them in. The heater for a 240 from Napa should run about $25 - 30 - plus either your time or that of a shop to install. Most likely worthwhile - I need to do the same on my '90 once I get it back on the road here soon.

If you're somewhere NE of Anchorage on the Glenn, check with John Alexa at Sheep Mountain - he's the Volvo Doctor in the area - and I'd bet he could have you taken care of in short order. volvodr@gci.com

Good luck,
Zach Zaletel
1990 245 w/245k mi
almost back on the road, now with ecodes

Hey Zach,

Thanks for all the info. I'm actually down in Kenai. I'm not sure what an "IM" is, or if it would help me up there in Anchorage. That's to do with DEQ and exhaust measurments right? I have all my tags and such current, but down here I don't think we have a DEQ to go through for exhaust measurement. Would you recommend a particular shop in Anchorage for general stuff as well as this block install? I know I'll be driving up there one of these weekends to shop for ski equipment and such, so I could have it done then.

I'ts nice to know of the Volvo Dr. also out at Sheep Mountain. I have a funky turbo issue that maybe he could help me diagnose.

It's going to snow tonight the weather satelites say!

IM is the semi-annual emissions inspection that they require for cars here in Anchorage. Are you in Kenai or simply on the peninsula? If you're in Kenai, any shop there should be able to get you taken care of. In Anchorage, I've gone with Arctic Import, but I'd think that there'd be another shop that could do as good a job for a bit less. I've heard good things about L&M Motors (563-4994) from others, fwiw.

Zach

Living in Canada, I can understand what your up against with the -20 Januarys. I would recommend getting a block heater. I've had one on my '92 245 since I got it and I've never had a problem starting even on the coldest mornings during winter. That said, before I had the wagon I had an 83 242 GLT. I remember one particularly brutal winter when for 15 straight days in February the temperature did not go above -15 Celcius (approx. 0 F), and that was mid-afternoon in the 'heat' of the sun. Nightly temperatures were much MUCH colder! That car didn't have a block heater or any other device to keep her warm. Not even a blanket. And the battery wasn't even that new. During that cold snap I never had a problem starting her, not even once. I just had to let her warm up for about 10 min. before she'd move.

My 245 lived outdoors for eleven years in Maine. -20? It is to laugh. Started ok on the one -35 morning, and on the more common -30 or so mornings. In it's later years I ran synthetic oil with great results. No block heater, no battery heater, just kept stuff in decent repair. One thing that will help more than you know...make sure your plugs are gapped correctly. Worn plugs will not help a bit.

If you think you need heat, go with the in-hose heater. It will do just fine and circulate the coolant (warmant?) by convection. They are not expensive and are easy to install.

Do not get the power cord tangled up in the snowblower...

I think I will, from all the advice given here, at the very least get a heater blanket device of some sort for my battery.

I have heard arguments against those lower-radiator tube in-line pump elements because of fears that they could restrict the proper flow of coolant though.

Nobody was able to give me a description of where I should go hunting for the frost plug. Could somebody please let me know where to look? Does "knocking it out" mean that it does not screw out and it requires some special tools? Another route I could take with this I guess would be to just take it to a shop in town and see if they can install the block-plug deal for me for a price.

The under-oil-pan elements are not looking to bad it seems from everybodies' reports on them. Nobody has submitted a horror story at least.

Your history in Vermont is interesting. Reading that made me further realize that I'm not only worried about not-starting situations, but just giving the engine a little leg-up booster in reaching optimum temperature and oil-flow to reduce wear in the long run.

The 240's with B21/23 engines used the rearmost frost plug for the block heater - the one below the #3 cylinder exhaust port. There are three of them along that side of the engine. The plugs are made of approx. 1mm thick steel, a very shallow "cup" shape and are pressed into their machined openings in the block.

The way I've always removed them is to drill a few small holes in them close together, then knock out the bit of metal between those holes so I could stick a screwdriver in and twist them out of the block.

This would probably be a real chore on a turbo...not bad on the N/A engines once you unbolt and lower the headpipe.

Coolant flow concerns with the rad hose heater are probably not valid in your cool climate.
--
Bob (son's 81-244GL B21F/M46, dtr's 83-244DL B23F/M46, my 94-944 B230FD and 89 745 (LT-1 V8); hobbycar 77 MGB, and a few old motorcycles)

Whenever it gets really nippy, I pull the battery and sleep with it. I like the batteries with the attached carrying strap, but I have also devised attached harnesses myself.

One thing: in order to pull the battery, you have to be able to pop the hood and the hood on almost every 240 I have known has had the ability to freeze solid if it gets cold enough. In order to prevent this, the hood release cable has to be purged of the water which ends in it. I've done this by disconnecting the cable on both ends on a day when the temperature is above freezing, sliding a short length of vinyl tubing over the latch end of the cable sheath then flushing a goodly quantity of LPS-1 or WD40 through the cable. I let the lubricant flow into a catch basin at the interior end of the cable until it stops dripping. It's surprising how slick the hood release will work after this treatment.

Rich

As Robert Ludwick says, the freeze-plug block heaters are not an easy install, and would be a real pain outdoors in the cold. For my money, they do the best job, though. The lower rad hose heaters are your second best bet...relatively easy and quick install from under the hood.

The magnetic stick-on oil pan heaters are simplest of all (no coolant draining, no wrenching), but it's doubtful if much heat actually gets up into the engine's innards for easier cranking, esp. if the car is outdoors.

A battery blanket is a fine idea. They are cheap and only about 70-80 watts, but being insulated will keep the battery warmed up. I believe the wisdom says that a battery only has about half the cranking capability at zero F as it does at room temperature. Any auto parts store there in AK should have all of this cold weather stuff.

A big yes to synthetic oil (5W30) for severe cold.

(It's -24C = -11F here tonight, and we're about 1500km south of Fairbanks)
--
Bob (son's 81-244GL B21F/M46, dtr's 83-244DL B23F/M46, my 94-944 B230FD and 89 745 (LT-1 V8); hobbycar 77 MGB, and a few old motorcycles)

The freeze plug heaters work , but putting one on a turbo might be a chore. You have to knock out the freeze plug, they are pressed in, then set the heater in and tighten down, Pad heaters aren't that great, but may be an easier option. Another option would be the heaters that go into the lower heater hose. Most farm supply stores carry them .
If you haven't already, switch the thing to synthetic oil, that will make the cold cranking a lot easier and those high priced Optima batteries will give you quite a kick in the cold( I ran a red top in a mercedes diesel and it would start that thing at 12 deg no problem, if it will crank a diesel cold it will crank a gas burner no problem)Battery heater is a good idea too.
If you're feeling rich, an Espar fuel fired block heater will have you walking out to a preheated car with defrosted windows.
Silicone spray on the throttle linkages will help prevent freezing stuck. It doesn't sound like you've been in the cold long :-) don't set your parking brake unless absoloutely neccisary ( moisture from the snow spray will get in there and freeze to the parking brake shoe and you're going nowhere. )Not a bad idea to carry a propane torch in the tool box , you'd be amazed how many uses there are for one of those things.
--
-------Robert, '93 940t, '90 240 wagon, '84 240 diesel (she's sick) , '80 245 diesel, '86 740 GLE turbo diesel, '92 Ford F350 diesel dually

Use a magnetic block heater. Slap it on the bottom of the oil pan (it will stick on its own), and route the power cord out the grill or other accessible areas. When you get home, plug in the car and it will start just fine, unless your battery is getting old.

I'm originally from OH, but spent too much time further North. The block heater was enough to about -30C, but at -40C, the battery quit despite being new. I had to improvise, so I used a small "medical" heating blanket and wrapped it around the battery. Set it on low and plugged it in every night... started every time after that! I'm sure the automotive community up North has a better solution that a med heating pad.

Whatever you do, don't use Bosch Platinum plugs when its that cold, the electrodes have a habit of breaking with a no-spark result! Go with Bosch Copper cores or NGKs. In the automotive industry, -40C is the lowest design limit they shoot for, if it is colder than that, you are asking for miracles!

jorrell
--
92 245 245K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently in pieces

Spent one winter in South Dakota, hit minus 14F, you will get colder.

Some ideas:

Keep the battery fully charged, less likely to freeze - I saw one burst open.

Get a pretty heavy extension cord and multi-plug to handle the heater stuff.

Get a heating pad to go under the battery.

Get a dipstick heater.

Get a can or two of "Heet", or some alcohol gas additive, keeps the water vapor (which will condense into liquid) brom freezing.

Having the car covered will help.


Since my stay in S. Dak. was courtesy of the US Army, which has has someone up all night every night, we were able to start and run 5 minutes every vehicle in the motor pool. Every hour. On the really cold nights.

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)


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