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I just purchased a 1978 242 for my son's first car. It runs well and has little rust but has a few problems that I am starting to address.
Right now, with the help of what appears to be a nearly useless Haynes manual, I am replacing the center bearing and rubber donut on the driveshaft, trying to get the OD unit operational, and rebuilding the shifter.
I have the OD unit working intermittently by hotwiring the switch wiring since it has been mangled by poor routing around the shifter. I'm thinking the transmission might be a little low on oil which might be causing the intermittent operation.
The biggest question I have is what transmission is in this car? It appears that, according to the Haynes manual, the M41 uses 80w90 gear oil and the M46 uses ATF. I know I can just drain it and put whatever comes out back in but who knows if the previous owner put the right stuff in anyway. Is there any easy method to tell the difference for someone that knows very little about Volvos at this point?
As a side note, any other advise on potential issues with these cars would be greatly appreciated. I'll be waiting until spring to tackle the non-working interior fan. I have heard what fun those are.
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Thanks to everyone for the tips and help. I have already put in an order with IPD for some bits and pieces and will try to get the drill and oil tech bulletin from them also. I certainly hope I don't have to put the newer style fan motor in the old air box. I wonder if I could put the entire newer style air box in it with the existing pieces if I could find a good one in the junkyard. I have a junkyard nearby that has a lot of early to late 80's 240 series cars in it.
The more I dig into stuff with this car, the more interested I am getting with it. I'm really looking forward to getting it back on the road so I can see if everything I have done to it makes a difference on the vibrations it was having previously.
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Help, I bought an old Volvo, now what do I do?
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posted by
someone claiming to be CB
on
Sun Nov 26 10:41 CST 2006 [ RELATED]
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""I'll be waiting until spring to tackle the non-working interior fan. I have heard what fun those are""
You are lucky that you have a 78. the blower motor can possibly be brought back to life with the drill and lube method. Ï did this on my 80 about 4 years ago...still working. IPD had a Tech Tip in their newsletter May 15,1995. I'm sure they can send you a reprint.
Get IPD catalogue, http://www.ipdusa.com/ for great color pics of parts and tech tips...you'll also get a monthly newsletter.
Get a parts cataloge from rpr, http://rprusa.com/
Get The Volvo Problem Solver Advanced Edition
Bosch publication: K-Jetronic: Mechanical Gasoline Fuel- Injection System. 25 pages.
You def have the M46. M40/41 went out with the B20 last used in 75 240s. M45/46 is mated to the B21 engine.
Forget ATF. Use Redline MTL
Why oh why don't they make 240s anymore :(
75 245(RIP) 80 244 226K, 87 245 172K
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""I'll be waiting until spring to tackle the non-working interior fan. I have heard what fun those are""
Do try the drill and lube method. Replacing the blower motor on my 1979 245DL was an industrial strenght PITA. Just replacing the motor was a real challenge, but the motor had to be converted to the permanent magnet type.
The conversion required drilling a 5/8 inch hole in the bottom of the air plenum, inserting a grommet, installing the large speed control resistor, running a new wire harness to the switch, and carving the motor mount bosses to fit the new style motor. I got the parts and the instructions from my then-friendly Volvo Dealer. Cost was $105.00 and the labor book said 5 hours. That price is long gone, and I took 10+ hours. I had the angle attachment needed to drill the 5/8 inch hole.
You might visit www.volvotechinfo.com or call 1-800-25-VOLVO to see if you can get a Wiring Diagram Manual for your car. Of all the Volvo "Green" Service Manuals I found that one to be invaluable. See if they have a heater manual, too.
Good Luck,
Bob
:>)
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Ok, after some more digging, I'm beginning to think this car has an M46 in it. Reading through the Haynes manual, it states the M46 has reinforcing ribbing on the case that the M41 does not have. This car came with a spare transmission that is definitely an M46 since it is stamped "OIL ATF" on top of the top access cover. Obviously, I can't see the stamping on the transmission in the car but it appears that it has the same ribbing as the spare transmission. Looks like I will be going to buy some Type F.
Thanks for everyone's help. The information on the specified Volvo repair for the wiring is a big help. I'll be repairing the wiring today. Unfortunately, I will have to wait for reverse lockout parts and the driveshaft parts before I can get it back on the road.
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Help, I bought an old Volvo, now what do I do?
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Help, I bought an old Volvo, now what do I do?
Hi Mark,
Adding to the suggestions so far, I'd urge you to get the Bentley 240 Service Manual. Although it says its for '83 thru '93 240's, it will cover most everything you need—engine, ignition, FI (close, yours is like the turbo version but simpler), brakes, etc.
Check online for prices. The Bentley is/was $30 at eeuroparts. Spend $9 more and shipping is free. To me the organization, graphics, and indexing alone are far superior to the Haynes. (NOTE: This price was several months ago)
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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Most likely the M41. The M46 was NEW in 1979 according to the Green Volvo Service Manual for M45/M46 Trasnmissions.
Use 80-90W Gear Lube. Heck even if it is a M46, the gear lube will not hurt anything except be a bit stiff at really cold temps.
Intermittant OD. Since you indicate a problem with the wires in the shifter, the only solution there is to repair the wires per Volvo Service process.
Usually the wires in the tube are OK. Not a lot in there to damage them. Volvo has the wires out of the tube cut about 1 1/2 inches from the tube to which is spliced a 10 inch length of 14 guage wire each. The splice is insulated then taped to the shift tube without wrapping the wires around the tube. The tape does all the work. The extra 10 inches is looped on itself and then attched to the connector which must be at the left front of the tunnel opening. Position the loops clear of the movement of the tube when repositioning the boot.
Just because the dash light comes on does not mean the OD will work. DaAsh light just indicates that there is power available through the shift switch.
Another potential problem with the OD controls. The 4th gear switch on the trans cover. Once you have all together, test power flow via the following.
Ignition ON, engine OFF, shifter in 4th. Slide switch on...dash light on.
Under auto at left rear of trans/OD combo is a solemoid. Round thing with two wires off the back. With the above teat parameters, remove the feed wire from the solenoid. The solenoid should click OFF. Reattaching the wire should make it click ON. A nice sharp metallic click is preferable but at this point any audible click is OK. This verifies the 4th gear switch is functional and passing power. Leave wires attached and have someone move the shift lever around simulating shifter wiggle during driving. If the solenoid clicks during this test, the 4th gear switch is bad and will need replacement.
Other test for OD working at all requires that at least the above plus full fluid in trans is accomplished.
Lets hope only the wiring is funcky.
Duane
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One worthwhile thing to do is clean the fuse block, pinch the fuse holders slightly tighter, then install good-quality new fuses. Disconnect the battery first. Good luck and welcome.
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Thanks for all the help. DougC 1981 242, Turbo bars and wheels, M46............1993 245, B230 NA L-Block, M46, Turbo bars.
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If it's an overdrive, it's an M46. You want to use ATF, but not just any ATF.
USE ATF TYPE F ONLY!!!
And I mean it.
Type F is a spec originally created for Ford automatics. It hasn't been used in Fords for many years, but you can still find some in dang near any auto parts chain store.
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