posted by
someone claiming to be brooksandkendra
on
Mon Dec 18 08:59 CST 2006 [ RELATED]
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I have a 1995 960 that has erratic idling upon startup. It will jump between 0-1000 rpms which causes the car to feel like it wants to bog out but it hasn't yet. This just started this week, however, I have had this ongoing issue with the car lacking power when trying to accelerate at any speed and also it mysteriously skips when traveling between 45-50 mph. I have had it looked at for the skip and the mechanic could not figure it out. Also, I informed him of the lack of power but he never felt it when driving it-go figure. So, with all that said, I wonder if they are all related somehow? If anyone can guide or point me in the right direction it would be much appreciated. Oh yeah, I am a female- so don't come at me with too difficult of a question. :) Thanks.
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Don't know if this will help or not, but I've been driving my 300,000+ mile Toyota beater while trying to convert my 740's transmission and it's been exhibiting some of the same behavior. When it finally wouldn't run at all I took it to the shop and they found that oil blow by is being sucked into the EGR system and gumming up my intake system. If it's a high mileage engine, maybe the same type of thing's happening. I have the up and down idle, flat spots in power and a serious rich condition that floods the plugs on start up. Good luck.
--
The Breadbox - 1989 740 GL Wagon in Arctic White
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Also check, spark plugs, look for a vacuum leak, temp sensor failing, idle valve dirty. How does it idle when warm? When it is cold, does it start up right away, or does it crank for a while before it starts? Is it any different when warm or on a hot start?
I wonder if the skip you feel at 45 mph is the over drive lock up. Sometimes the shift point gets a little sticky and lurches and fails to down shift when the transmission fluid needs changing. Has the fluid ever been flushed? How many miles are on the car? Using synthetic fluid?
DanR 94 964 322,000 miles (88,000 on the new engine)
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DanR
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posted by
someone claiming to be brooksandkendra
on
Tue Dec 19 04:33 CST 2006 [ RELATED]
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I have had all new plugs, so I don't feel like thatis it. I am going to have the hoses checked for possible leak as specified. It does not crank before it starts- it always immediately starts up. This is the first winter I have had the car so in comparison to the summer, the start up is different due to whatever issue there is. I would also note that the colder weather seems to affect it also. The transmission fluid has not been flushed but has been checked and topped off. I do not feel it is the tranny at all- to give an idea of what that skip feels like I would compare it to water in the gas . However, that is not the problem either. Once you accelerate beyond 50mph the skip dissipates. Also, due to this serious lack of power, I am also leaning toward a leak or some sort of sensor component. I wish I knew how troubleshoot and repair my own car! It really sucks taking it to my mehanic who seems to never want to spend the time to find the problems and fix them. Grrrr! So frustrated. I am going to take it over and have him run the codes today, but he said that if it was not a quick fix he could not repair it for another 2-3 weeks. Great! I will keep you both posted. Thanks sooooo much for the feedback.
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Elsewhere you asked how to check for vacuum leaks. Sometime you can hear them, like a hissing sound. More often, you can't. What I do is to spray carb cleaner, using a tube nozzle, at each spot where a vacuum leak could occur and listen for a change in the engine speed. If the speed changes, you have located a leak. Places to check are:
1. where the injectors enter the head.
2. each connection of the hoses to the idle control motor and the manifold.
3. all vacuum lines connecting to the manifold (both ends of the lines if you can get to them.) Sometimes if you disconnect a vacuum line and plug the nipple, the idle will smooth out telling you where the problem may be.
4. the connections of the main air hoses from the air filter on to the throttle body. Also look to see if there are any splits or leaks rubbed through these hoses.
Note: I have not had a 960 but the steps I've outlined above will work on any car. Some cars have specific vacuum leak weaknesses such as the 'accordion hose' in the 240 car. Maybe there is such a weakness in the 960 and someone may chime in with that information.
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First, with this many symptoms it is likely an error code has been set in the engine's ECU (Electronic Control Unit). Have someone familiar with Volvo's read the ECU memory for error codes. This will point you in the direction for a fix.
Second, the engine needs a supply of pressurized fuel at the fuel injectors. Have the pressure at the fuel rail tested against the specs. It should be something like 40 PSI if the system is working correctly. Possible causes in order of cost are fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, or the fuel pump.
Post back with your progress and questions.
--
'96 965, 16' wheels, Michelin Pilot Sports, rear 18mm bar + Koni, 201 HP cams, 141K. Put 200K on '85 745 TD.
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Sounds like a vacuum leak to me-check all those vac hoses-vac leaks causes the fuel metering to go crazy and power to fall off as well.
Poolman
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Is there an easy way for me to identify any leaks in the vac hoses?
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I am following this post with great interest as I seem to be having the same troubles on my 94 965. Erratic idle, lacking power, skipping. I just had my injectors cleaned, new plugs, new fuel filter. It has even stalled a coule of times. Someone mentioned a fuel rail problem common to these cars. Can anyone elaborate on that point.
I seems that my #2 cylinder is not firing also. This is a baffling problem. I can hear the recently cleaned injector clicking in time, compression is good 130psi, spark plug new, switched to a known working coil, switched power boosters( the ones on the intake manifold), left a plug in the head and put another in the coil and it makes a good spark that jumps to ground. Checked the continuity of the lead and ground wires onthat coil. It just wont fire. I can smell the raw gas in the exhaust.
I am going to try some of the other suggestions. Vac leaks, tranny fluid, (its due anyways) fuel rail pressure.
Any ideas are appreciated.
Thanks
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The reading of 130 is not very high. Was this test done when the engine was hot, and did you have the throttle plate held wide open? Did you put any oil in the cylinder after getting that reading?
Have you tested the #2 spark plug coil, loose with a plug in it, still wired to the car? Ground it to the engine and crank the engine and see if there is a spark. If you have confirmed that it functioning and the cylinder is still misfiring, then it could be a leaking intake gasket or something worse having to do with the low compression reading.
Is there any noise in the lifters? Maybe a collapsed lifter, but they usually make a fair amount of noise.
DanR 94 964 322,000 miles (88,000 on the new engine)
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DanR
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I checked the compression again today. 140 psi with the engine at normal op temp. Test at idle. I did not put any oil in cyl after. I compared it to the #1 cyl at 150psi. I switched fuel injection nozzles to a known working one, no change. I tested the electrical signal at the injector plug with a noid light and it's good. I put a sparkplug in the coil and grounded it to the engine and it's making good spark. no noise in the lifters. As far as I can tell I have fuel, fire, and compression. There's nothing else left.
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