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I have to replace the brake line junction block of my 93 240. I've done brake work such as master cylinders and calipers, but I'm concerned about bleeding the brakes with the anti-lock mechanism under the hood. Is there anything special to do with that? Does it have to be bled in addition to the calipers at each wheel?
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Chris, Pullout the Fuse to the Brake lights, Depress the Brake pedal and wedge a piece of wood between i tand the front seat. That'll keep your Master and ABS section from emptying. Do your work then let up on the Brake pedal, add fluid as you bleed. Having the Master air-free will really simplify the Bleeding to the system.
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me
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By the way, if I may ask, why do you have to replace the octopus? You never mentioned.
The reason I'm asking is that they're usually very reliable and long-lived. I've never had a problem with them (save one issue), and I'm talking about cars much older than your 13 yr old car. The exception that I noted was only having a bad switch, and if, by any chance, your problem is merely because of a false 'brake warning' signal, do you know that there's a cheap rebuild kit for that switch that doesn't require removing the whole unit (and messing with those many brake lines)?
Of course, it is possible that you really need a whole new unit, and if I should be minding my own business, I'm apologize. But if you're in need of the Volvo p/n for the switch, contact me.
Best regards,
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then I will be in your debt for it, I have several leaky octopi. Are you near L.L.Bean's store in Freeport, ME? How about a gift cert for you, there?
Regards, and Merry Christmas,
Bob
:>)
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To replace the switch, it's called "Braking Warning Switch rebuild kit" and the p/n is 272702-2 (the price should be ~$36.23).
Since you're doing it, some suggestions of tools to get before crawling under the car, in addition to obviously, some wrenches to fit the plastic "nut" (switch body) that you unscrew from the octopus:
1) a small mirror (preferrably the little "mechanic's mirror", ~1 across, on a swivel attached to a handle). You need it because you're under the car, and working (assembling) stuff inside a hole that's upright, and you can't get your eyeball up over the hole to look down -- thus, the mirror's purpose.
2) small forceps or tweezers (preferrably with a bend at the tip, but the bend isn't absolutely necessary) -- useful because, like in (1), you'll want to pick crud out of that hole, and also position and align the new parts, and it's hard to reach inside without this.
Hope this helped.
Season's Greetings :-).
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Sorry to hear about having to cope with the "octopus" (that's what I call the junction box). Anyway, be sure to have a set of good quality wrenches -- and if I may suggest, SnapON-brand, flare-nut wrenches are the only way to go to be absolutely safe about not rounding the nuts and thus having to also replace the lines. I know that the wrenches made the otherwise intimidating job of changing my flexible brake hoses (for which you can read a lot of horror stories on this forum) a non-issue, so they're all I'd trust. And be sure to first clean with BrakeKleen spray, and then presoak over a day or so with PB-Blaster, too. Hope it goes well.
Anyway, about flushing, don't worry -- I've done the '93's ABS system about 5 times already (I have two '93s, and over several years and a couple of full brake jobs, I've flushed them several times). The ABS has no separate bleeders -- it's flushed as you normally flush the system through the calipers' bleeders (and with ABS, they're fewer than the old system). Just plan on having to run more fluid through the circuits to account for the additional passages through the ABS unit -- don't skimp on the quantity of fluid you buy. And of course, it's nice if you have the PowerBleeder.
Good luck.
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When I asked this question last year on a 92 245 where the system was totally removed and evacuated/replaced, including hard lines, the answer I got was "bleed it like a non-ABS car"! What do you know, it worked like a charm!
No magic here, just bleed the RR, LR, RF,and LF in that order twice, all will be good.
jorrell
--
92 245 245K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently in pieces
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