|
|
|
first, you must get all dressed up like this before you see photos below.
this is to keep all those thoughts about oil safe & secure inside your head.
also, this fine head gear will protect you from any new "information".
scored 6 bottles of one fantastic oil. where was it made?
the dual oil filter kit came in today (very pretty) & scored 2 HUGE napa gold (aka Wix) 1515 filters. let see what happens in 5,000 when i pull the first oil sample for analysis with the 0w30.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Enem cam, adj. cam gear, new head, trans cooler, stainless brake lines, cross drilled rotors, e-fan, braces, IPD sways, 100% poly, Bils, boxed front & rear arms, lowering springs, FWD rims, 25/32mm adapters, powder coated stuff, & more...
|
|
-
|
|
|
I see the 0W30 "German" Castrol here in PartSource (for one) stores. Sounds like it's the real deal, and as much as I used to like Castrol before BP gobbled them up, I'm sticking with Mobil-1 which has been the real deal all along. Their "Euro" oil is their 0W40.
Too many FTC findings against Castrol, for unsubstantiated (ie: they lie) ad claims. Not for Syntec oil at the moment, but for a "synthetic" fuel additive.
Mobil took Castrol to the advertising division of the BBB for calling their hydroisomerized (HI) oil "Synthetic". The Castrol folks purchased a HI petroleum oil basestock from Shell, put in their additives, and quietly replaced their PAO-base Syntec with it. This results in an improved petroleum-base motor oil which is much cheaper to make than Ester or Olefin-based true synthetics. The BBB kinda sidestepped the issue by finding that "synthetic" can be interpreted a number of ways and the Castrol stuff more or less didn't lie, but made Castrol drop their ad references to superior wear protection, etc. as being totally unproven.
AFAIK, Volvo only supplied oil coolers as factory OE on Turbo models - undoubtedly due to the heat added as oil went through the bearings in the near-red-hot turbo. They didn't feel that a cooler was needed on NA engines, even back in the 70's/80's with the oils of the day, and knowing that their cars would be climbing hills in Arizona in July with the AC on.
So from a strictly technical perspective, and especially with a true synthetic oil, a cooler is unnecessary on a NA engine. Modern oils lubricate best at around 190F-220F, so you don't want to overcool. But if you use a thermostat on the cooler to keep the oil from falling below about 190F, things will be fine.
--
Bob (son's 81-244GL B21F/M46, dtr's 83-244DL B23F/M46, my 94-944 B230FD and 89 745 (LT-1 V8); hobbycar 77 MGB, and a few old motorcycles)
|
|
-
|
|
|
What you got is the Caastrol Syntec that is a real synthetic. It is sold at some outlets in the states, the stuff labeled made anywhere other than germany is the cheap hydrocracked stuff.
check the oil fourms on the net, that is the stuff some folks go ga-ga over.
--
-------Robert, '93 940t, '90 240 wagon, '84 240 diesel (she's sick) , '80 245 diesel, '86 740 GLE turbo diesel, '92 Ford F350 diesel dually
|
|
-
|
|
|
One Last Comment S-P-H:
Your head dress appears to be "off" in a few ways. It has no conductive chin strap to complete the "shield effect". The holes in your "helmet" are also too large as they will allow the 23nM wavelengths of the universe to penetrate without attenuation.
Might I recommend that you line the inside of your "helmet" with aluminum foil as this may keep out the bad ideas and thoughts? You'll thank me the next time a massive EMP occurs!
jorrell
ps. All in fun!
--
92 245 245K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently in pieces
|
|
-
|
|
Just something I thought I should mention. Of course I do not know what hoses came with your dual external mount, but I hope you are using pre-assembled hoses with permanently attached crimped ends and are not going to use hoses with hose clamps. I had a bad experience many years ago when a hose attached with a hose clamp at the adapter plate on the engine blew off. I learned a hard lesson that day.
Here is a pic of the external mount and filter in my 262c. You can't see the hose ends, but they are not held in place with hose clamps.
|
|
-
|
|
|
Cool, I'm curious as to what your results are.
gotta get me one of them hats, will also protect you from government satallite brain washing.
--
'89 240 All original xcept. exhaust, 25/25 sways, guages, slight airbox mod, fogs, custom sound.
|
|
-
|
|
|
Like your head piece. It made me laugh. i want one for small parts to go in my parts washer.
Greg
|
|
-
|
|
Please note the "Espanol" lingo on the aft of the container - i don't care what ya say, if it's in spanish (they use NO octane rating south of the border - I'm in Texas) it's made to run at 12C all the way to 44C ambient - hence the 0 weight - you'd be better off buying Mineral Oil at a Walgreens
Tim
|
|
-
|
|
|
Tim:
I am concerned about S-P-H's use of 0W30 synth since the B230 was never designed to work with it. That being said, Porsche in 2000 and later Boxter S machines recommended 0W30 for North America. Porsche, however, did drive the tolerances between parts to the extreme of precision.
If I were cruising around in a B230 in hot weather with dual external oil filters, I'd also want an additional oil cooler with fan to ensure that the oil doesn't thin out to baby piss and break down.
On a Castrol Syntec line of comments, here goes. Got my hands on a 2000 Mitsu Eclipse GS at 30K miles, factory stock running 5w30 non-synth. Then I added a turbo, intercooler, and all other associated components. I then ran it for another 40K miles without issue until an injector leaned out and detonation destroyed the #2 piston. When I pulled the engine apart, overall cylinder bore wear was ZERO (no ring grooves), no cam wear, no bearing wear. Simply awesome. BTW, the turbo kit kicked the power from 109HP to 190HP at the wheels... this is what I call SEVERE duty. Was I running an oil cooler, no, I was running two of them, the factory part and the add-on.
S-P-H will be fine with the 0W30 as long as the oil temp is controlled and not allowed to climb excessively. From there, oil consumption will be his guide.
jorrell
--
92 245 245K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently in pieces
|
|
-
|
|
|
Just curious about your comment, "f I were cruising around in a B230 in hot weather with dual external oil filters, I'd also want an additional oil cooler..."
From the seat of my pants, having a second external oil filter provides that much more surface area remote from the engine, so oil cooling would probably be improved over the stock setup. Also, the additional oil capacity (maybe a pint more at most?) is moving in the right direction.
Feel free to enlighten me! Maybe I'm inferring something incorrectly.
--
Thank goodness we don't get all the government we pay for. -- Wiley Post
|
|
-
|
|
|
Yes, adding the dual external oil filter will help with heat, but if running thinner oil, additional cooling may be needed to maintain oil viscosity. Going back to the Boxster S reference, that car runs a dry sump system and takes 10 quarts of oil, not 4 to 5 like a B230. It also runs an oil cooler to keep things happy.
Just trying to point out that there is a reason Porsche went to such lengths to control oil temp when running 0W30. That being said, dry sump is quite different than a wet sump B230.
jorrell
--
92 245 245K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently in pieces
|
|
-
|
|
|
i thought the dual remote set up would help to cool the oil better because:
1) the ability to place the filters in front of the rad. support, for example, and away from the engine.
2) increased filter capacity (2 Wix 51515's are the size of 4 Mann filters) and overall increased system capacity -going from 5 qts to about 7 qts.
the surface area "argument" is also valid.
even thought about running a small oil cooler to finish everything off nicely.
there is a standard style cooler in my sights on flee bay right now.
i thought about scoring an older mazda rx7 oil cooler -with built in thermo bypass- because that would be functional as well.
nevertheless, i doubt the oil will breakdown to pi$$ but i dont doubt there will be consumption of some kind/level.
german castrol, at opp temps, is alomst as thick as a 40 weight -hmmmmmmmmmm.
i could mix 5 qrt of german costrol 0w30 with 2 qrt of our castrol syntec 5w30.
i appreciate your insight jorell and other posters.
--
Enem cam, adj. cam gear, new head, trans cooler, stainless brake lines, cross drilled rotors, e-fan, braces, IPD sways, 100% poly, Bils, boxed front & rear arms, lowering springs, FWD rims, 25/32mm adapters, powder coated stuff, & more...
|
|
-
|
|
|
I have been following this thread with great interest and SPH's quest for orgasmic engine oil and filter.
I can appreciate the points made in this upgrade .I can understand transmission oil cooler because there is no inbuilt cooling system there but I can not understand engine oil cooler.Engine oil and engine itself is cooled by the built in coolant system . Cooling system maintains the optimum operating temperature of engine by closing opening the thermostat .Engine does not get hotter than that whatever may be the hours of operation and ambient temp.(of course cooling system should be in good condition ).Oil ,engine block and coolant remain within the same range of temp.How will the oil cooler help here ( and we are talking about oil cooler for high operating temp where already good viscosity of 0w30 provides protection, for 0 side car will be already cool and oil cooler will not help here).I think no temp increase is anticipated even then large heat exchange capacity radiator would have resolved that and only if that was also the limiting factor because of say size,design etc then a additional cooling system in the form of oil cooler would have come into the picture.
I am not a thermodynamics expert but I think that is how it should be.
I think I am missing an important link here . I will need enlightenment on this topic as I have learned many other things here.
Regards
Gopesh
|
|
-
|
|
|
S-P-H,
Can you provide a parts list for the dual remote filter setup? I'd like to go that way as well. Yes, I would run a singular oil cooler (hopefully with thermal bypass)on this currently NA motor with 5W30 Syntec as the tolerances on this engine are on the utmost tight side of spec.
In my mind, synth is the way to go, external oil filter mounts make life easier, and make for an easy oil cooler hookup. In my book, these are all good things! Since I am not a chemist, oil is not my forte, so I may be wrong about the 0w30, but I find it a bit spooky.
Great job by the way! Like what you have done with your Brick!
jorrell
--
92 245 245K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently in pieces
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be mac a docious
on
Thu Dec 28 16:56 CST 2006 [ RELATED]
|
|
|
|
-
|
|
|
Moar oil cooling would be nice.... maybe just a different style oil cooler would help tremendously, like say one of those long length rectangular intercooler looking kinds (if there are those kinds anyway)
That 0dub oil would be excellent with an oil cooled turbo due to less drag being thinner... should maybe get a little extra powah out of the b230f too tho.
My car runs like crap for the first 2 minutes in below O degree celsius weather here, but then again i've got 250,000 some odd kilometers onthe thing and it hasn't been touched.
I run 10w-30 with synthetic (not synthetic/semi synthetic) and a nice glob of lucas oil synthetic stabalizer, which quiets the motor a bit and provides better lubrication.
--
'89 240 All original xcept. exhaust, 25/25 sways, guages, slight airbox mod, fogs, custom sound.
|
|
-
|
|
|
I've pulled a tranny cooler of an old Ford Econoline (12"x12", clamp style) and used for power steering cooling on my Tahoe... Before that it was also used for a motor oil cooler on my Grand Am...
Tim
|
|
-
|
|
|
quoted from a post at bobistheoilguy.com:
"I created this to clarify the myth that "5w-30 and 0w-30 are too thin!"
This was originally a supplementary write-up for my GC FAQ.
If you see any errors or have suggestions, please PM me.
(I'm sure there's room for lots of improvement.)
Thin Oil Myth
Created: April 10, 2006
Last Edited: Never
Disclaimer:
All the temperatures here are in celcius.
Short answer:
0w-30 and 5w-30 can be thicker than 10w-30.
Long answer: Read below.
Really Basic (but not so intuitive) information:
I'm sure we have all seen 5w-30, 10w-30, 10w-40, 20w-50, but what does it mean?
When talking about viscosities, you must state the temperature.
Lets break this up into two categories: hot and cold.
Xw-20, Xw-30, Xw-40, etc (HOT!)
This is your oil's hot viscosity. The viscosity is measured @ 100c.
This number is relative when the engine is warmed up.
The most common unit is cST. The larger the number, the "thicker" the oil.
Examples
A "30" weight is between 9.30-12.49 cST @ 100c.
A "40" weight is between 12.50-16.29 cST @ 100c.
Here's a table.
0w-XX 5w-XX 10w-XX, etc (COLD!)
This is your oil's cold viscosity. A 0w, 5w, 10w, etc, are not measured at the same temperature!
This is number relative when starting your engine.
The most common unit is cP. The larger the number, the "thicker" the oil.
Examples
A "10w" weight must have a MAX viscosity of 6600 cP @ -30c
A "0w" weight must have a MAX viscosity of 6200 cP @ -35c
Here's a table.
It never gets to even -15c here, so what's the start up viscosity for me?
Great question! A lot of us don't live in super cold temperatures.
Unfortunately, the oil companies don't have to tell you. All they need to specify are the extremes.
Can I know an oil's viscosity at different temperatures?
Yes! Aside from actually measuring the viscosity, you can do some calculations.
With a viscosity calculator and enough data, you can piece a graph together.
You can usually get all the data from the manufacturer's datasheet.
Take the calculator with a grain of salt. They are decently accurate in most temperatures, but I wouldn't trust them below -15c.
Why do they measure the cold and hot viscosity (cP vs cST) in different units?
Something about dynamic vs kinematic viscosity.
I won't go into detail here, because I haven't researched this.
Back to the point, "Why isn't 5w-30 or 0w-30 thin?"
I think a real-life example will help.
Lets compare Mobil1 5w-30 to Mobil1 10w-30.
First the Hot (100 c) setting
Straight from Mobil1's datasheet (Looked on April 4, 2006):
5w-30 = 11.3 cST
10w-30 = 10.0 cST
Looks like the 5w-30 is thicker! (Notice how both oils are a "30" weight)
Now lets look at the cold setting
Based on the 5w and 10w specifications:
5w-30 = 6600 cP or less @ -30c
10w-30 = 7000 cp or less @ -25c
Looks like 5w-30 is thinner than 10w-30!
We can conclude that:
5w-30 is thinner than 10w-30 at -25c.
5w-30 is thicker than 10w-30 at 100c.
The above implies that 5w-30 thins out less than 10w-30 as temperature increases.
Still confused? Maybe this graph will help.
The graph is just a learning tool, don't use it as an actual reference.
Reminder: this example refers to Mobil1. If you're curious about other brands, you will have to look at their datasheets.
Finally, my concluding remarks.
My main points are:
5w-30 can be thicker than 10w-30.
0w-30 can be thicker than 5w-30.
Unless you have tools to measure viscosity, you need to at least:
Specify a temperature.
Check the manufacturer's datasheet.
The cold viscosity tells you NOTHING about the hot viscosity.
Some things you might have noticed:
I haven't claimed an Xw-30 to be thicker than an Xw-40. At least at operating temps, any Xw-30 will be thinner than any Xw-40.
Everything I have said can apply to other weights within the same hot viscosity.
It's possible for a 0w-40, 5w-40, or 10w-40 to be thicker than a 15w-40 at certain temperatures.
It's possible for a 0w-20 to be thicker than a 5w-20 at certain temperatures.
MANY other factors about oil were not discussed here. Please don't base your oil preference on viscosity numbers only.
When in doubt, follow your car's manual. At least you won't void your warranty that way.
Credits:
BITOG, 'nuff said.
AndyH for the cold viscosity table.
427Z06 for the calculation info.
The countless number of names I have forgotten.
Thanks for reading!"
|
|
-
|
|
|
same website, same guy, different post about german castrol:
"I wrote this to answer the basic questions people have about GC. The forums are intimidating and finding information can be tedious.
I hope this helps anyone looking for basic info.
If you see any errors or have suggestions, please PM me.
GC FAQ
Created: April 3, 2006
Last Edited: April 15, 2006
Disclaimer:
This FAQ was written for the U.S. audience. Not everything here applies if you live in another country.
Basic information:
What is GC?
GC stands for German Castrol. It's officially named Castrol Syntec 0w-30.
I'm not sure who coined this term.
Why is it called GC?
It is the ONLY Castrol Syntec made in Germany.
What makes this stuff so good?
With any oil, it may not work well with your car. However, the majority of us love it.
Produces great UOA results.
Engines run quieter and smoother. (OK, that may be an opinion.)
Comparable price with other synthetics. ~$5 qt
GC is a TRUE synthetic. Made from PAO/Esters, not Group III. Click here for more reading.
The other Castrol Syntecs are not true synthetics.
Other examples of true synthetic oils are Mobil1, Amsoil, Redline, and Royal Purple to name a few!
GC is good enough to have its own forum! That's gotta mean something.
What's bad about this stuff?
Not much.
You might have a hard time finding it depending on where you live.
Your car might not like it. You'll never know until you try.
Keep trying oils until you find one you're happy with.
Addicting. You'll see what I mean...
Is it "thin"? Come on, 0w-30 has to be watery.
NO! Please don't completely buy into that myth.
At cold temps, the 0w weight correlates to cold cranking viscosity.
That means GC will still flow at cold temps. (Which is a good thing!)
At operating temps, the 30 weight is actually close to a 40 weight.
GC is one of the thickest 30 weight oils around.
I don't want to go into too much detail about this here. It can be very confusing.
My point is, GC is not "thin" in most temperatures that we use our cars in.
Click here for more details about the "Thin Oil Myth".
The example uses Mobil1 5w-30 and 10w-30, but GC still applies.
Click here for some viscosity comparisons.
Click here for a chart about cold cranking viscosity.
Can I use this oil even if my car manufacturer recommends a different weight?
Great question. Your best bet would be to search or start a new topic if it hasn't been discussed.
It should be fine if your car needs 0w-30 (Duh), 5w-30, or 10w-30.
Personally, I wouldn't use GC if my car called for non-30 weight.
Where can I buy this stuff?
In the US, AutoZone is the only major store that carries GC. Most AutoZones carry it, but not all.
In Canada, you can try your luck at AutoZone and Wally World.
More information you should know:
There are 3 types of GC.
U.S. - So it's not really GC, but it's U.S. made Castrol Syntec 0w-30.
Green - Yes, the oil is Green.
Gold - The most recent stuff.
What's the difference?
There's not much research done on the U.S. stuff, so just don't buy it.
Green vs Gold
No one is 100% sure which is better.
Green has proven itself to be great.
So far, Gold has been great too!
Gold is probably just as good as Green. (Maybe better?)
Click here for more reading.
Bottom Line
The U.S. stuff probably isn't as good as the German stuff.
Buy Green if you can find it. Otherwise go for the Gold!
How can I tell the difference?
First, I'll teach you how to read the date codes.
Look at the bottom of the bottle, it'll say something like M05216xxxx
The 05 represents the year it was made. (2005 in this case)
The 216 represents the day it was made. (001 - 365)
U.S.
No need to look at the date code, it'll say "Made in the U.S.A." on the back.
It was last made in 2002, but many AutoZones still have some lying around.
Green GC
It'll say "Made in Germany" on the back.
Anything until and including M05010xxxx is Green.
This stuff came out in 2002.
Gold GC
It'll say "Made in Germany" on the back.
Anything after M05010xxxx is Gold.
This is the current GC.
Click here for some photos of US and Green GC.
The Gold GC bottles look similar or identical to the Green GC bottles.
Miscellaneous Questions:
Are you a chemical engineer or tribologist?
Nope, just an enthusiast. I am an Electrical Engineer and I got A's in all my physics/chem classes. (I still don't know jack about those subjects.)
Why do people hunt for Green GC so frivolously?
I don't know. There's something novel about losing gas/time/money/relationships for the Green.
What's the deal with the elves?
Shhh, don't get involved. They'll pull you back in if you try to get out.
Credits:
BITOG
sxg6 for the GC photos.
AndyH for the cold viscosity table.
427Z06 for the viscosity comparisons.
Everyone who gave me suggestions and caught my errors. If you think your name should be here, don't be shy and PM me!
Thanks for reading!"
--
Enem cam, adj. cam gear, new head, trans cooler, stainless brake lines, cross drilled rotors, e-fan, braces, IPD sways, 100% poly, Bils, boxed front & rear arms, lowering springs, FWD rims, 25/32mm adapters, powder coated stuff, & more...
|
|
|
|
|
