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Since it starts up and runs fine until it warms up, I'd suspect the AMM, ECU, or ignition module. It's the electronics that are warming up and then faulting out. I don't know of any reliable test methods for these components other that direct replacement with known good units. I had good luck with a $100 used ECU from Hirsch Foreign in Phoenix. A 280-000-503 or 280-000-510 will work but the 503 (red label) is best. I buy Python remanufactured AMM's for around $175. I've never had to replace an ignition module (two 83's with over half a million miles total).
Before spending money on the above, you could check the temp sensor for the fuel injection system (not the gauge sensor). Since the sensor is hard to access under the intake manifold, the easy way to check it is at the ECU 25 pin connector using an ohm meter. With the engine cold, disconnect the 25 pin connector and measure the resistance from pin 2 (on the connector, not the ECU) to ground. Hold the connector looking at the pins with the cable coming in at the top; pin 2 is the top left pin. The resistance should read around 3000 ohms. Reconnect the 25 pin connector and run the engine up to normal operating temperature. Disconnect the 25 pin connector and check the resistance. It should read around 500 ohms. jp
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