Replacing transmission mount:
There is a hole through a large bracket that the mount is attatched too, that gives access to one of the bolts holding the tranny mount. Will I need to remove the whole bracket, or will I be able to replace the mount easily enough without removing it? And if I do have to remove this whole bracket, the bolts look fairly rusted, is there a chance of them shearing that I would have to account for?
[I was planning on jacking the tranny up by the housing, any info pertaining to this being the right place or not would be appreciated]

and on the overdrive wiring...:
The wire coming from the solenoid is severed just above the u joint of the propeller shaft right behind the transmission.[its about 5 inches long i'd say] I would get better access and be able to make a better repair of the wire by taking the propeller shaft out, or at least moving it back 6 inches or so. Should I try to do this? Or would this just be adding more trouble than it's worth?

Thanks a lot!

Keith Oliver.

My brother and I finally finished the job. We ended up taking off the tranny support bar. The tranny mount was sheared off so we had a hell of a time getting it off after we took the bar off. After that we just dropped the tranny a little (used a carjack on the bellhousing w/wood) to get the cut wire. Repaired that and used a zip tie to get it up and out of the way. Then we cleaned the big tranny bar and began by hooking up the new mount to the tranny itself, then (remembering the spacers on the big bracket) put the big tranny bar back in place and bolted it in..
Everything seemed to go pretty smoothly. Took it for a test drive, voila!
Thanks to everyone who responded!
cp

Support the trans with a scissor jack or similar, then unbolt the rear transmission cross brace from the floor (2 on each side). Then lower the trans jack as far as you are comfortable with.

Use a 15mm deep well socket to remove the nut that holds the trans mount to the cross brace, set the brace aside. Remove the upper nut that holds the trans mount to the trans, now you can replace the trans mount.

You should also now have enough room to repair the OD wire... replace as much of it as you can.

Assembly is reverse of disassembly.

Hope that helps.

jorrell
--
92 245 245K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently in pieces

The cross brace bolts are super rusty, do you think there is any chance that they will shear off?

Very possible. Start out with soaking it with genous amounts of PB-Blaster for SEVERAL days.
Do drop it though to get to the wire and you must to change the mount.
Even if it shears off you can probably extract the broken bolt.
--
EJO now a 1994 940T 190K; ex '65 123S; ex '75 245; and ex '81 242GT; also Chrysler 2002 T&C and 2006 MINI Cooper

If you are talking about the bolts holding the cross brace to the floor boards, there is little concern (at least on the oldest one I did "89 244") due to the gooey undercoating. If yours has undercoating, you are probably good to go.

jorrell

--
92 245 245K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently in pieces

I never did motor or tranny mounts but I've repaired a couple OD solenoid wires on auto tranny cars.

If you pull the shift housing cover (two screws at front edge, then slide it back and to the side) you can get at the upper end of that pesky wire. Don't try pull the cover off completely, you won't get it past the shifter knob without some extra steps.

Wire goes out thru a grommet. I pulled wire remnant up into cabin, spliced in good new wire and shoved out thru grommet w/needle nose pliers. Don't remove grommet; I removed it the first time did the job + never got it back in; had to use plumbers putty instead.

If crimp-connecting a thin wire to a fatter one - you can fold over the thin wire's exposed conductor to make it double thickness. Worked for me.
--
Sven: '89 245 NA, 951 ECU, open-front airbox, E-fan, 205/65-15's, IPD sways, E-Codes, amber front corner reflectors, quad horns. Wifemobile '89 245 NA stock. 90 244 NA spare, runs.

I have enough wire coming from below the shifter where I could splice more if I needed to. The problem is that I only have a few inches of wire coming from the solenoid and cannot reach up there to splice.