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Just asking for a little of user knowledge. Stupid tow truck driver was loading my car onto the tow truck and the genius hooked one of the control arms to load onto the bed. It bent it about an 1/8 inch. Mechanic says it'll cost $150, not including the $75 control arm. Should I not be a cheapo and pay? I don't have a lift available so if I did it myself I'd have to use the oem jack. Thanks in advance for your time. Dick
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Thanks for all the tips everyone. I'm currently searching Craigslist for a used 2-3 ton jack and supports. I opted to buy a new control arm, didn't want to fuss with seized bushings on a junker, ordered all the bushings too.
I'm not really all that sure if it needed to be replaced, mechanic said it would prematurely wear down my tires. Although it is bent pretty bad, his hook caught right where the ball joint meets the control arm(A-arms are the same thing?), it's actually bent 1/2 an inch to 3/4 toward the ground, causing the ball joint to look quite uncomfortable. Also when I hard steer right or left(U-turn) I get a shutter, like I ran over someones road-kill muffler. Probably the bent control arm, eh?
Well thanks again!
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Those control arms are pretty tough. Are you sure the 1/8" isn't just a superfical bend that makes no structural difference.
If had had to change a control arm this is what I would do.
Get 2 junk yard units with rear bushing cups attach for under 50. Put in new bushings. At least the rears. Get a set of new MOOG or TRW ball joints(40) Install them on the CA's. I'd also have them sandblasted and paint them with POR 15 or powdercoated. After the CA's are prepared its a just an hour or so to change them over.
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Thanks for the advice guys. I'd like to hold the tow company response-able but I didn't actually see him do it. When I got to the shop the mechanic noticed it, and said it'd been done recently and I had only just received the car a few weeks earlier. So it could of been done before me taking ownership of it, although I know(gut feeling) it was my tow truck guy.
It's the drivers side control arm. So a ought to invest in a nice jack...
Hey Ezsha what's PB blaster?
Thanks again.
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posted by
someone claiming to be curiousheights
on
Fri Jan 26 21:21 CST 2007 [ RELATED]
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PB Blaster is an anti-rust spray - it works to release the rust in the threads of corroded nuts and bolts... if you can reach under the car before you put it up, spary any connectors you can find: there are three for the ball joint, the bolt through the endlink, and however the control arm attaches to the cross member (I think it's two bolts?) and the rear mount (through the bushing?)... Sometimes it works right away, and sometimes you have to let it sit and work, but I've found it decreases the amount of effort I need to use most of the time, and also decreases the number of bolts I twist off... also, if you're really stuck, heat up the bolt and then spray it... it's a bit stinky, but effective most of the time...
I know that the chain auto parts stores in my area carry it... It's a white can with yellow, black and red... I think it's a yellow top...
I wish it was your passenger side control arm - I have an extra one of those... the yard buggered the driver's side one by torching off the welded bolts... oh well...
Best of luck... ezsha
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Jessie ... P B'laster is available here in Nova Scotia .... at leaast here in the Annapolis Valley ...
Brett
--
Brett Sutherland & the 1.5 million mile 122 CANADIAN --- WINDSOR, Nova Scotia the birthplace of HOCKEY www.ecvintagevolvo.com
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My can is clogged, and I can't just get another can since its not available in Canada. I don't get to the US that often.
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posted by
someone claiming to be curiousheights
on
Sat Jan 27 06:26 CST 2007 [ RELATED]
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You can try soaking the plastic nozzle in warm water, and then blowing air back through it. If that doesn't work, although it's not exactly what you are looking for, this will make it so you can at least use the PB Blaster.
1. Obtain a refillable aerosol can that you can repressurize. (My friend's came from Harbor Freight, $10.)
2. Put two layers of duct tape around the top of the can over each other.
3. Very carefully put a hole through the duct tape and can wall, to release the pressure. Make sure the hole is pointing AWAY from you! (Placing the can securely in a vise without crushing it works for holding it steady.)
4. Cut off the top of the can and pour its contents into the refillable aerosol.
5. Pressurize the refillable aerosol and use as necessary.
The refillable aerosol can will dispense any liquid you put into it, so if you need to use it for other liquids, including water, it's a handy tool to have around.
And Walmarts in the U.S. do carry it - it might work to ask about it, or order it from the PB Blaster website, conveniently enough, pbblaster.com.
Best of luck!
ezsha
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posted by
someone claiming to be curiousheights
on
Sat Jan 27 06:28 CST 2007 [ RELATED]
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Oops... Walmarts carry PB Blaster, not the refillable aerosol can... sorry if that wasn't clear... ezsha
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posted by
someone claiming to be curiousheights
on
Fri Jan 26 21:42 CST 2007 [ RELATED]
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Oh, you should also spray the rest of the connectors Smitty posted... if you can't spray them before you get it up, spray them after... I live in winter salt world, so I had massive corrosion problems and needed all the help I could get... hopefully you're somewhere less corrosive...
Best of luck! ezsha
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Control arm replacement CAN be straightforward. The 'gotchas' include the aft bushing being frozen on the A-arm threaded spindle.
If you have a flat, level surface to work on, the job is pretty straightforward. Secure the vehicle safely on stands, unbolt the ball joint, unbolt the sway bar link, loosen the long bolt at the front of the A-arm (goes into the crosssmember), then remove the aft bushing retainer (3 bolts). Then pull the long crossmember bolt out, and lever the arm out - voila.
Now the fun begins. Good luck getting the rear bushing off... my recent battle with one resulted in significant Dremel and chisel damage to the spindle, so my '92 now sports a pair of new A-arms. I was lucky when I changed the bushings the first time, not so lucky the second time. If you're replacing that bushing, use a good schmear of anti-seize on the spindle so the inner steel sleeve in the bushing won't seize.
Replacement is straightforward, BUT... you have to tighten the aft spindle bolt with the A-arm loaded, or else you're straining that brand new bushing. Driver's side is easy to access, passenger side is obscured by the exhaust downpipes. I did a temporary install without tighttening the nut, and marked the relative position of the bushing retainer to the A-arm. Then I took the A-arm back off, lined up my marks, and tightened the bolt. I was within a couple of degrees when all was tight - close enough.
Might be worth getting an alignment afterwards.
If you elect to do the job yourself, take half of your savings and invest in a good floor jack (mine has a 15" lift... love that guy) and sturdy jackstands BEFORE you start to work!
Don't forget to take the repair estimate to the towing company... they damaged your car.
--
Thank goodness we don't get all the government we pay for. -- Wiley Post
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posted by
someone claiming to be curiousheights
on
Fri Jan 26 03:43 CST 2007 [ RELATED]
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Considering the fact that your vehicle has a tow hook under the passenger side of your bumper front bumper, and another one on the back, I would hold the tow company responsible... it was an avoidable mistake on their part!
Which control arm did they hook onto? I just replaced the front crossmember on my car, and ended up getting one with everything attached for $75 from a salvage yard... you just have to tell them to not torch the mounting nuts, as they are welded on...
If you decide to do it yourself, be sure to use floor jack stands to get it up as high as you can... you'll appreciate the extra room. Also, PB Blaster is your best friend, that and a bit of heat...
Best of luck!
ezsha
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