Be sure to check the motor mounts. If you get the tranny mount off and the right or left motor mount is also broken, the whole tranny + engine unit might shift and then you're in a heap of trouble.

The unit is mounted of the three mounts, with the motor mounts sloped so that in a head-on collision the unit drops down instead of smashing into the driver.

That slope makes the unit want to move rearwards all the time. The tranny mount is what keeps it from doing so. Thus the broken tranny mount might have ripped the already stressed right motor mount in two.

With the engine cold, put your hand under the oil filter to see how much clearance there is between the filter and the mount. If your fingers fit OK, proceed with the tranny mount. If not, do that motor mount first, and use the lifter tool to raise the engine. Helps to have the oil filter out, if possible.

I have a lifter tool. Made from 2x6 lumber. Two pieces sit vertically along the inner edges of the front fenders. Another piece goes across the engine, screwed to the top endges of those side pieces. (Use 3-inch deck screws so the tool can be disassembled for storage.)

That "bridge" piece has a 1/2 inch hole through it. When marking it for the edge screw holes, locate it do that the hole will be right over the lifting loop on the thermostat housing.

The last piece of 2x6 limber is equal to or a little shorter than the bridge. It just lies on the bridge as reinforcement. It also gets a 1/2 inch hole drilled in it.

Next you will need a 6-inch long 1/2 inch eye bolt, plus a nut and two large washers. And a link to connect the eye bolt to the lifting loop.

How to use it? It's too easy to detail here. The two washers go on the top side of the reinforcing piece, then the nut. Put some grease on the threads.

Hand tighten the nut until the slack is gone, then turn it with a box-end wrench to lift.

Lift slowly about 6 turns, it doesn't take much. Then go after that right side motor mount. For detailed instructions see other posts, some of them mine.

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)

Thanks all for the tips, btw how hard is the job of replacing the center driveline support bushing?
--
--- '59 544, '81 245, '77 Elky

If you've done damage, the least would be messing up the rear seal on the trans. After you replace the mount monitor the drips and the fluid level...so you don't run low. I've had the tranny mount become so saggy that the car did pop out of gear, but it never got so far along that it totally broke away.

Also have a look at the Center bearing Rubber Donut support, just in case that's saggy too.

Why oh why don't they make 240s anymore :(
75 245(RIP), 80 244 M45 226K, 87 245 M47 172K

Tranny mount is a easy job. Support the car on jackstands+backup, put a floor jack under clutch housing and raise it just enough to support it. Then loosen the mount (one nut in the front towards the tranny and one on the rear of the crossmember, and you'll have to remove the crossmember to remove it and reinstall the new one. It is recommended to get an original Volvo part here. The santechs are not very good. I changed mine a couple of years ago with the santech part, and when I decided to do the trans mount again now, while doing the engine mounts, it was quite stiff and deformed. Not sure how it should look, but the old engine mounts did have enough elicticity in them to go back to their sylindrical shapes after I removed them.

Hope this helps.