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Here's a new one to chomp on Bricksters. '89 240. Running perfectly when parked a few months ago. Battery weak, jump started two or three times for movement, ran fine. Finally ready to bring it back to life, started fine, idles fine, but at about 2k RPM (maybe a little less) the engine cuts out completely (at idle or driving). As soon as it drops slightly it comes back to life. Like someone flicking an on/off switch. Diagnostic gives me 2-2-3 code in the #2 socket and 2-3-4 in the #6 socket, indicating IAV system signal problems. Switch and air valve are good though, and even give the correct diagnostic signals. What could suddenly cause this with no other changes? Coil is good, wires fine. Fuse holder good. Both pumps running, no weeping at the fuel pressure regulator. Warm or cold no difference. Any thoughts will be appreciated. ECU maybe? Somehow damaged by the jump start?
Thx,
DS
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I've jumped my several times&have had no problems w/the ecu.Mine was doing exactly the same thing&I got 2 sensorsfrom a upull it&all is well now.
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!965 NSU Prinz,1958&9 VW Beetles,1972 Renault R10,1970 Fiat 850,1972 Chevy Nova,straight 6 3 spd.topped out at115mph,1982 VW Rabbit,1987 Ford Econoline Straight 6 Supervan,445,472 miles before it flamed up!1989 Ford Taurus Wagon 3.0V6,took 18"of snow to s
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I have not heard anyone mention it on the BB but I have heard that Jumping the '89/'90 cars are known for killing the ECU.
A guy I know had a '90 and had Battery issues, used to jump it often and went through 3 ECU's. He sold the car because back in '92 you couldn't find Used ones often. at $700 from the dealer , he got rid of the car.
He was told that the Jumping was killing the ECU
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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm
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Never had that problem with my 89, but a friend had it happen to his 91. It would only happen when you connected the negative jumper cable to the battery post; if you put it to ground, it'd be fine.
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'82 260 Diesel (RIP), '89 240
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Posted this because I didn't think I had an ECU to try, but found I had a 951 on the shelf. Plugged it in, car fired up and runs perfectly. Must be the jump. Some sort of spike.
Code issue is sure interesting.
DS
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What is the number on the suspected bad ECU? Dan
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Hi Dan,
It is, of course, the dreaded, much maligned, oft discarded 561. Now running beautifully with a 951 in its place. I'm still stumped by the false diagnostic readings, but a good lesson to remember.
DS
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Another one bites the dust! If it keeps going, problem solved, you learned the value of having critical spare parts on hand. They save time and $ when things go wrong. Pick up another ECU and it you don't already gather a collection of the known problem parts. Dan
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BAD BAD BAD knock sensor
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!965 NSU Prinz,1958&9 VW Beetles,1972 Renault R10,1970 Fiat 850,1972 Chevy Nova,straight 6 3 spd.topped out at115mph,1982 VW Rabbit,1987 Ford Econoline Straight 6 Supervan,445,472 miles before it flamed up!1989 Ford Taurus Wagon 3.0V6,took 18"of snow to s
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Tell me more! Any connection to the false codes?
I did remove and clean the base of the sensor having heard this can cause problems. Did not help.
Thx,
DS
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i DON'T THINK CODES ARE FALSE.rEPLACE THE SENSOR W/ONE FROM A JUNKER.
mY RPM SENOSR JUST NEEDED SOME ALUMINUM HEAT TAPE&NOW THE CODES ARE GONE.
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!965 NSU Prinz,1958&9 VW Beetles,1972 Renault R10,1970 Fiat 850,1972 Chevy Nova,straight 6 3 spd.topped out at115mph,1982 VW Rabbit,1987 Ford Econoline Straight 6 Supervan,445,472 miles before it flamed up!1989 Ford Taurus Wagon 3.0V6,took 18"of snow to s
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