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does the 16mm air conditioning hose that crosses over the valve cover interfere with the head removal?
can i leave it in place?
thus far: 7 of 8 exhaust manifold nuts and 3 header pipe to exhaust manifold nuts having bathed in blaster for only 24 hours crack loose easily...........whew.... the 8th appears unhappy and shall soak a while longer before being coaxed.
intake manifold comes off (to be gently leaned backwards towards the master cylinder shortly after i get the throttle body out, no troubles appear on either
question: is it is good idea or not to support with rope or such the intake and all its stuff from say a hook on the open hood?
this will make it easy to clean out the flame trap...yea
i think i should replace the crank sensor. mine seems fine but it is so easy now i think i would be foolish not to as long as i am there.......yes, no....maybe?
i will check the 2 heater hoses and clamps........if good leave?
my water pump is fine BUT it is original (203,000) am i being stupidly cheap not to replace it now? yea , i can see your eyes roll.
timing belt and tensioner will be replaced BUT the seals ALL look clean and dry.........should i leave them or replace them? how about the sprocket? seems fine.
last stupid question: i am not arnold swartzenegger. the head looks awkward and heavy to lift out. any tips for saving my back?
plastic ONLY scrapers to clean the bottom of the head?
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does the 16mm air conditioning hose that crosses over the valve cover interfere with the head removal?
Personally I have never had any interference but 1990 is the latest model 240 I have removed heads on.
thus far: 7 of 8 exhaust manifold nuts and 3 header pipe to exhaust manifold nuts having bathed in blaster for only 24 hours crack loose easily...........whew.... the 8th appears unhappy and shall soak a while longer before being coaxed.
While soaking you can also tap occasionally on the end of the stud both before and after a Blaster spray; the vibration and minute movement can increase the penetration of the fluid. After double nutting the stud when trying to get it out consider screwing it back in once you get a little movement when trying to unscrew it... back and forth, spray again, back and forth. Once it starts to move even a little this method will almost always insure success.
question: is it is good idea or not to support with rope or such the intake and all its stuff from say a hook on the open hood?
I do not think that will be necessary. I normally take it out.
i think i should replace the crank sensor. mine seems fine but it is so easy now i think i would be foolish not to as long as i am there.......yes, no....maybe?
I personally would replace the sensor now, it will never be easier especially on a 240. Most definitely change it if it has the yellow band around it which apparently marks it as the original
my water pump is fine BUT it is original (203,000) am i being stupidly cheap not to replace it now? yea , i can see your eyes roll.
timing belt and tensioner will be replaced BUT the seals ALL look clean and dry.........should i leave them or replace them? how about the sprocket? seems fine.
I would change the pump and I would change the seals as well unless you know they have been changed in the last 50,000 miles or so. If you decide to remove them check the surfaces the seals ride on. If they have created a slight groove you should install the new ones so they are in a different position so as not to ride on the worn area and possibly leak
last stupid question: i am not arnold swartzenegger. the head looks awkward and heavy to lift out. any tips for saving my back?
Perhaps inlist the aid of a helper? It is not real heavy but can be awkward. When reintalling be careful you do not drop it on your new headgasket, that would be a day spoiler!!
plastic ONLY scrapers to clean the bottom of the head?
Probably won't be much to scrape off. A low abrasive bright pad might be good. Be sure to take the head to someone who can check it for plane. If it is out of tolerance on warp it will need to be milled. In 25 years of Volvo red block engines I have only had to have one valve job done, but I have had to have three of four milled. I usually have a clean up cut taken on all of them, warped or not.
Randy
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if the head needs milling doesn't that mean the camshaft bearing journals will warped and out of alignment as well?
if i send a head in need of milling to a shop and they only the mill the bottom surface upon re installation won't the head bolts be fighting an out of line camshaft?
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The cam shaft fear you mention only comes into play in extreme conditions. Anything under 10 thou of face warp is irrelevant to the cam journals. Remember that Aluminum gets soft when hot, so it is possible that the bottom of the head warps and the top doesn't due to the distance (thermal gradient) between them. The cam with its extreme stiffness also helps keep the journals in line.
Your good unless the head is seriously warped.
Very very good question that is rarely asked! Sounds like you are making great progress as well.
jorrell
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92 245 245K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently in pieces
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I think it would have to be warped to the extreme to effect the cam alignment after milling. None of the ones I have had milled have ever developed a cam problem. There is a limit to what can be milled off if it is really cooked (but I do not know what the limit is).
The other side of the coin it that if it is warped beyond acceptable limits (again I do not know what the out of plane tolerance is) and you do not have it milled you can marginalize the chances of having the new headgasket last.
I did not read any previous posts on your problem. Unless you overheated the engine chances are the head will be fine, but you still will want to have it checked to be sure before putting the effort into replacing the headgasket.
Randy
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thanks randy
the head is weeping coolant at the rate of 1 pint in 3 months (winter here).
i noticed the location yesterday underneath the 2nd from the front spark plug on the exhaust side.
it has never overheated
no oil in coolant and coolant in oil
no white smoke
i think what is leaking is the out cooling journal outward. compression is good 158 in all 4.
caught it in time so i doubt if the head is warped at all. just asking to prepare for the worst and hope for the best.
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I do remeber the post now. Are you absolutely, without question sure it is coming from between the head and block? That is not a normal (in my opinion) headgasket failure in these engines. I would have a pressure test done to confirm the leak point.
The next recommendation will be meet with lots of negative responses (whether or not they are actually posted). That is a minimal amount of leakage. A very small leak that might in fact increase over time. Before I pulled a head for something like that I would try a product called Bars Leak. It is available at auto supply stores and is sold as a product to stop leaks in the cooling system, mainly radiators. It has been available for at least 40 years and in my experience works. It needs to be placed in the system in some way other than pouring it into the coolant reservoir as that is mostly just an overflow container.
When I use it in a Volvo I lower the coolant level enough that I can disconnect the upper coolant hose at the thermostat without spilling any coolant. I pour the Bars Leak into the hose (it is awful looking stuff)and flush it into the radiator with some of the coolant and then reattach the hose. Then simple pour the remaining coolant into the reservoir. Then drive the car as usual. Chances are it will plug that tiny leak.
People will say that it will clog the radiator and if your radiator is partially restricted it might very well plug any tubes that have been reduced to a small passage. It is however more like a cold treated with chicken soup- it can't hurt. In a situation like yours I would do it without hesitation.
Randy
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Randy, don't mean to be a nay-sayer, but stop-leak has a really bad habit of plugging up old radiators and heater cores whose fluid paths are already restricted by corrosion. Sorry, this is a very bad idea in my opinion... cost me a rad and a heater core and didn't cure the HG leak on a Honda. All it did was triple my expense.
jorrell
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92 245 245K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently in pieces
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I delayed my head gasket job for a couple of years by putting in the stop-leak that comes in the form of large brown tablets that you crumble into water and make a slurry and then pour it in at the top radiator hose.
After a couple of weeks, I changed my coolant to remove the unneeded stop-leak. It worked. The leak stopped for two years and was still not leaking when I needed to tear the engine down last fall for another reason.
What I found when I pulled the head was that the water passages where the head and block meet were partially obstructed with brown crud that appeared to be the stop leak. That concerned me because if it would bridge those 1/2" holes, where else did it collect?
The radiator and heater core still seem to be working just fine. As I say, I drove it for two years after putting in the sealant, and have driven it six months since the head gasket replacement.
I was pleased that it stopped the leak, but I don't think I would do it again.
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I knew it was not a popular idea when I posted it :-) I am glad that I did not need to climb into my asbestos suit before reading your post.
You expressed your opinion without malice and I appreciate that. I have participated in a variety of different internet forums and the Brickboard has to be one of the most tolerant of differing opinions. Of course there is the occasional exception but not very often.
I still respectfully suggest that if the Bars Leak clogged a radiator or heater core it would be because that those items were in the last stages of their useable life. I also realize that is little consolation to someone facing the replacement of a Volvo 240 heater core.
I know that at the rate of leakage he reports I would have a hard time justifying the replacement of the headgasket.
Have a good week.
Randy
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Randy:
Thank you for the kind reply. I am so pleased, as you apparently are, that it is possible to state a stance and not get flamed on the BB. On the Honda, I knew it was near its end of life, but at the time I was only making minimum wage ($3.35 at the time), so it was a serious issue when a "home remedy" made more problems than it fixed.
On the other hand, while in Florida on a job interview in a 75 B210, the rad sprang a leak and I was broke... big time. A woman in the gas station recommended that I let the car cool off and crack/pour a raw egg into the radiator. Believe it or not, once the engine and coolant got hot, the rad quit leaking and it held for months after my trip back to Ohio.
The rad and HC never plugged up... although the coolant looked like crap afterwards!
jorrell
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92 245 245K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently in pieces
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Years ago (probably before slime and fix a flat) I read about a cross country bicycle tourist that was picking up cactus spines in his tires with the result being repeated flat tires. A local suggested and helped him pour part of a can of condensed milk into each of his tires.... problem solved.
For every one of those home remedies that works there are probably ten that don't, but of course you never hear about those.
On a cross country motorcycle trip one time I had an old gentleman come to my aid when my clutch cable went slack. He had me follow him home and repaired the lever arm of the clutch assembly with a file and a piece of wire that held the two pieces from seperating once he used vise grips to squeeze them together. I was in Utah and as he predicted the repair held until I reached San Francisco and purchased a new lever arm.
Randy
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I take a piece of wire and hold the air hose up with the hood. Keeps things from getting in the way. Remove the intake and throttle body, with the head. A lot easier. I do not know what year yours is but later models, 86 and up, are easier to remove them together. Easier to get to the minifold bolts and you can clean out the intake runners while you have it out. Flywheel sensor either works or not, leave it unless the wires are badly frayed. Heater hoses if original usually do not need replacing. The ones you are talking about that go to the firewall shold be replaced only with original type. Aftermarket ones do not last as long. Water pump could stand to be replaced. Remember to install a new o-Ring at the top, between it and head. I always replace all the front seals, cam, intermittant and crank. If you replace the crank, make sure you notice how far it is installed originally. Replace to the same depth. The head is aluminum is even if the intake, whick is alunminum, do not weight that much.I am over 60 and just did this same job on and older B21. I think you can handle it.. Good luck...Max:>)
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Max..1989 244 DL 5 Spd., V15 Phase II Cam Bilstein HD, Turbo Swaybars, Poly Bushings all round, Turbo Wheels, Black leather interior, Electric mirrors, LED dash and gauge lights and now NEW ECODES with the turn signals, 1992 black 244 next project
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it is a 92.
did you leave the ac tube that crosses over the top of the valve cover in place or remove it?
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