hey all... trying to figure out why my low beams on my 1970 142 won't work... my fuse diagram is gone and i just want to make sure the right ones are in the right places.. had this car for about a year and i'm just getting it going. anyone have the fuse diagram handy or have any tips for me?

high beams will come on and stay on, other lights appear to work...

muchly appreciated.
jesse

bad hi/lo relay; it was actually low beams i was getting, not hi. so: i'll replace it when i start driving the car at night... part number for the relay is 1307991 still available from volvo $46.59.

thanks for the help all!
jesse

I was going to say it was the relay. I had one get stuck in the middle and I had to physically open the hood and bang on it to get it to go back to low beam. Couldn't get it to make it all the way to high beam... If you're still looking for wiring diagrams (a BIG help when diagnosing problems) I suggest picking up a Haynes manual. The 140 book is actually the best haynes manual I've used, and it includes the bosch wiring diagrams for all the differant 140 models. You can get them from www.classicgarage.com.

-Nick

I looked at the fuse block on my '70.
There is no fuse there for the headlights. I don't think I've ever come across a fuse for the headlights on an early 140.

Maybe you have a bad relay or even two burned out low beams (saw that happen on a friend"s car).
--
Tom - '60 544, '68 220S, '70 145S, '86 745T, '06 Mazda MPV

If I remember correctly (it's been many years since I had a 140) both high and low beams are powered by the same fuse---the one really stupid safety flaw of the otherwise superbly thought out 140---a single short to ground, and you are in the dark at 70 MPH........

It sounds to me like your problem is with the high/low beam relay. There is a clever little mechanism inside that flips back and forth between two sets of contacts. With much use it can become unreliable. Another possibility (less likely) is that the contacts are burned on the low beam side. Sometimes you can learn something by opening the relay, but it is better to get a wiring diagram and diagnose it properly (or test by substitution if you have a spare lying around) and replace the relay if it is bad.