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Method for tie rod removal and tightening

posted by  Will740turbo on  Tue May 1 09:00 CST 2007
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last visit: Wed Oct 22 16:09 CST 2014
[RELATED]

90 740 TIc

I just got my 2nd replacement tie rod to replace.

What's the proper tool to use to remove (remember there's a bur to prevent unscrewing) the tie rod?
Last time, I reluctantly used two pipe wrenches, one on the tie rod, one on the smaller diameter (not going to rub any seals) portion of the rack.
I wanted to know if there is a specific tool.
There aren't any flat surfaces, so I assumed it would be something like an "infinite wrench" - one of those rubber strap wrenches or a monkey wrench.

-Will
--
1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond








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    Method for tie rod removal and tightening

    posted by  Aye Roll on  Tue May 1 23:01 CST 2007
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    last visit: Tue Oct 14 21:08 CST 2014
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    Are you talking about inner or outer tie rods?

    Outer tie rods have a jam nut, and you just crank them over till the tie rod end bottoms out in one direction, and pull.

    The inners have a bent-over lockwasher (I guess the "bur" you mention). You should straighten it with a screwdriver or hammer and chisel.

    Then use a pipe wrench. You don't need to or want to use anything on the rack part. It'll stay put in the gears of the rack.

    Aren't those boots a pain in the butt?
    --
    ::: Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: 92 244 ::: 90 745GL ::: 90 745T ::: 84 242DL ::: 90 745T Parts ::: Used to have : 86 244DL, 87 244DL, 91 244, 88 244GL, 88 744GLE, 82 245T, 86 244DL, 87 244DL, 88 245DL, 89 244DL!








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      Method for tie rod removal and tightening

      posted by  kyle240 on  Wed May 2 01:22 CST 2007
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      last visit: Mon Oct 8 06:38 CST 2007
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      It is pretty clear to me he is talking about the tie rods. There aren't inner and outer, only left and right. If he had said "tie rod ends" then your question about which might be useful. The burr he mentions is the locking thread used on some cam racks where the joint has no flats or lock washer. He knows he can use a pipe wrench (what I use) but is interested in how it is supposed to be done. I have a sneaking suspicion more than one professional auto mechanic has a couple plumbing tools in his bottom drawer.

      If the boots, especially those from Groton, give you a pain in the butt, just apply some KY or dielectric grease, whichever you can get your hands on quicker.
      --
      -K (hope springs eternal)








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        Method for tie rod removal and tightening

        posted by  Rule 308 on  Wed May 2 04:15 CST 2007
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        last visit: Tue May 8 09:20 CST 2012
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        I've always used my big pair of channel locks, a drop of loctite, and my air chisel to peen over the retaining collar. The rack that the steering rod screws into is stationary and I have never found a need to put a pipe wrench on it but you are right in that there are no flats on that inner joint and you need to get ahold of it with something like a big pair of pliers or a pipe wrench.

        Mark








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          Method for tie rod removal and tightening

          posted by  vvpete on  Thu May 3 08:42 CST 2007
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          last visit: Thu Jul 10 14:10 CST 2014
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          The right way to do this is while the rack is off the car and the rack end is clamped in a vise. A big pipe wernch or channel lock will get it off after you chisel off the bent over lock section.
          Using the pipe wernch when the rack is on the car runs the risk of damaging the rack internals.
          These later CAM2 type of racks aren't meant to have the tie rods replaced. When they're bad, so is the rest of the rack. Just look at it this way, once you replace the tie rods and a few k miles later the rack itself goes bad, you'll be getting two new tie rods anyway and you just wasted the $$'s on tie rods and time to do this last year.
          IMHO, this procedure is not worth doing. I would get the remanufactured rack with new end instead.
          --
          '89 245 sportwagon, destroyed by hit & run driver, RIP. '04 V70 2.5 T Sportwagon, 12k mi and '91 245 5-speed, 209k mi, replaced the '89







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